Uploaded April 2012 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
In Part 2 of my first impressions testing my new Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe on a backpacking trip, I comment on the factory edge profile, and what I do to customize it slightly to my preference. I put a small bevel of about 2mm or 1/16 inch, with an axe file and then de-burr and finish with an axe stone or Fallkniven DC-4 stone. For me, the pure convex edge on an axe is somewhat dangerous because of the way axes want to bounce, especially when cross cutting. The micro or small bevel helps the axe to bite into the wood and keep on biting in, reducing the tendency to bounce out. The GB forest axes have such a beautiful thin blade that they don't bounce as much as fatter profile axes, so I think only a small bevel is needed. Everyone has their own preference. This edge profile mod works well for me.
Link to part 1:
youtube.com/watch?v=16FF1AzJPZ0
In Part 2 of my first impressions testing my new Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe on a backpacking trip, I comment on the factory edge profile, and what I do to customize it slightly to my preference. I put a small bevel of about 2mm or 1/16 inch, with an axe file and then de-burr and finish with an axe stone or Fallkniven DC-4 stone. For me, the pure convex edge on an axe is somewhat dangerous because of the way axes want to bounce, especially when cross cutting. The micro or small bevel helps the axe to bite into the wood and keep on biting in, reducing the tendency to bounce out. The GB forest axes have such a beautiful thin blade that they don't bounce as much as fatter profile axes, so I think only a small bevel is needed. Everyone has their own preference. This edge profile mod works well for me.
Link to part 1:
youtube.com/watch?v=16FF1AzJPZ0
