Hoopers Beta | When Moonboard Training Pays Off Outdoors | Anatomy of the Climb @HoopersBeta | Uploaded February 2021 | Updated October 2024, 19 minutes ago.
#climbinginjury #climbingtraining
Links to website, social media, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// TIMESTAMPS //
Buzzsaw V10/7C+ Footage (00:00)
Intro (01:15)
Move #1 (01:36)
Move #2 (06:10)
Move #3 (11:32)
Move #4 (16:55)
Outro (18:13)
Summary of What We Learned (19:07)
Bloopers (19:16)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
Welcome to episode four of the Anatomy of the Climb series! Aiden makes another (shirtless) appearance and we take a look at a super Moon Board esque problem, Buzzsaw V10! We don’t have a side by side, this time, as it would have made for one mega long video. But be sure to check this one out for more movement tips and anatomy lessons! Enjoy!
Climb Info
Climb: Buzzsaw (V10)
Location: Black Mountain, Idyllwild
Climbers: Aiden Gloyd (@aiden_gloyd)
Video Credit: Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
Movement Info
Move 1: going to the right hand
Jason’s Notes
This is an awesome example of a few things right off the bat. The lock off strength you need in both arms and the mobility in the hip you need so that your right foot HELPs you rather than opposes you
Both the right and left arms start immediately flexed to make it to the first move. Aiden wants to keep his body close to the wall when he hits the first move, so he pulls himself in and then gets near to a lock off WITH the arm in about 80 degrees of abduction. Great exercise for this? W’s or Face pulls to work on the scapular retraction and external rotation
You can see that the right foot wants to basically push himself to the left based upon its positioning, BUT, he wants to pull to the right, so he has to have enough hip mobility to rock over the foot. Recommended stretch? Garlands pose with wide stance
Now, interestingly enough, The beta that Alan uses is more strength dependent but also recognizes the challenge of the right foot. It is going to push him away, so he uses that to lock off on the left arm more and stabilizes with the right before bumping out.
Emile’s Notes
Very moonboardy problem. Not a lot of foot trickery you can do on this one, you have just have the strength and mobility to pull the moves.
Full crimping both hands, but not wrapping the thumb over on the left
Starts off with bad looking body position (scrunched/hunched), foot pushing him away, putting more force on the tiny right hand hold.
As soon as he starts to pull to the hold, before taking his right hand off, he opens up his hips and comes into the perfect body position
Flags his left leg out left to shift weight to right foot
Changes angle of force on right food, pushing him up
Right elbow inside arms vs outside
If you’re going to rock over your foot and open your hips, you want your elbow on the outside of your knee so it doesn’t get in the way
Move 1 Summary
Jason’s Lessons
W’s and/or face pulls
Garlands pose stretch with wide stance
Emile’s Lessons
Full crimping happens outdoors, so you need to train it to be prepared
Flagging can help you open up your hips and stay close to the wall
Pay attention to elbow position and keep it out of way of your knees
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/one-routine-once-a-week-climbing-training
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// CREATORS & PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#climbinginjury #climbingtraining
Links to website, social media, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// TIMESTAMPS //
Buzzsaw V10/7C+ Footage (00:00)
Intro (01:15)
Move #1 (01:36)
Move #2 (06:10)
Move #3 (11:32)
Move #4 (16:55)
Outro (18:13)
Summary of What We Learned (19:07)
Bloopers (19:16)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
Welcome to episode four of the Anatomy of the Climb series! Aiden makes another (shirtless) appearance and we take a look at a super Moon Board esque problem, Buzzsaw V10! We don’t have a side by side, this time, as it would have made for one mega long video. But be sure to check this one out for more movement tips and anatomy lessons! Enjoy!
Climb Info
Climb: Buzzsaw (V10)
Location: Black Mountain, Idyllwild
Climbers: Aiden Gloyd (@aiden_gloyd)
Video Credit: Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
Movement Info
Move 1: going to the right hand
Jason’s Notes
This is an awesome example of a few things right off the bat. The lock off strength you need in both arms and the mobility in the hip you need so that your right foot HELPs you rather than opposes you
Both the right and left arms start immediately flexed to make it to the first move. Aiden wants to keep his body close to the wall when he hits the first move, so he pulls himself in and then gets near to a lock off WITH the arm in about 80 degrees of abduction. Great exercise for this? W’s or Face pulls to work on the scapular retraction and external rotation
You can see that the right foot wants to basically push himself to the left based upon its positioning, BUT, he wants to pull to the right, so he has to have enough hip mobility to rock over the foot. Recommended stretch? Garlands pose with wide stance
Now, interestingly enough, The beta that Alan uses is more strength dependent but also recognizes the challenge of the right foot. It is going to push him away, so he uses that to lock off on the left arm more and stabilizes with the right before bumping out.
Emile’s Notes
Very moonboardy problem. Not a lot of foot trickery you can do on this one, you have just have the strength and mobility to pull the moves.
Full crimping both hands, but not wrapping the thumb over on the left
Starts off with bad looking body position (scrunched/hunched), foot pushing him away, putting more force on the tiny right hand hold.
As soon as he starts to pull to the hold, before taking his right hand off, he opens up his hips and comes into the perfect body position
Flags his left leg out left to shift weight to right foot
Changes angle of force on right food, pushing him up
Right elbow inside arms vs outside
If you’re going to rock over your foot and open your hips, you want your elbow on the outside of your knee so it doesn’t get in the way
Move 1 Summary
Jason’s Lessons
W’s and/or face pulls
Garlands pose stretch with wide stance
Emile’s Lessons
Full crimping happens outdoors, so you need to train it to be prepared
Flagging can help you open up your hips and stay close to the wall
Pay attention to elbow position and keep it out of way of your knees
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/one-routine-once-a-week-climbing-training
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// CREATORS & PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
