Uploaded December 2021 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym! Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Special Thanks to The Wall Climbing Gym
00:11 Skit
01:27 Intro and Context
02:10 Part 1: Contact Strength and Climbing Ability
05:10 Part 2: Contact Strength Protects and Heals You
06:03 Part 3: Should Everyone Train Contact Strength?
09:47 Part 4: Contact Strength in the Real World
12:12 Final Thoughts
13:00 Bloopers
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 98
In the last video we establish what contact strength refers to in a scientific sense. And if you know the definition of contact strength, it should be kind of obvious why it’s important for climbers. But in this video, I want to move past the “common sense” reasons and see what the research has to say, because I found some of it to be quite interesting and even a bit surprising. We’re also going to talk about the huge elephant in the room, which is how contact strength in the real world might not be quite as simple as it appears in research. So cinch down those shoes and chalk those sweaty tips, ‘cause we’re about to send it!
CONTACT STRENGTH IS CORRELATED WITH CLIMBING ABILITY
ARTICLE I
First, let’s look at a short excerpt from Levernier G et al in their paper: “Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers.”
If you couldn’t tell from the title, the researchers found that specific finger training increased the contact strength of elite climbers. They concluded that because the window of time climbers have to develop force on a hold is so small, “...increasing the RFD is, therefore, a crucial way to increase performance.” This conclusion is just the researchers’ opinion, but it aligns with the SAID principle.
The SAID principle says that each sport imposes unique demands on the body, so to improve at that sport, you should practice the moves that impose those demands. You want Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. With climbing, there are often moves where you need to develop a lot of force in a short amount of time. So, according to SAID, you should train in a way that increases your rate of force development.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/why-climbers-should-care-about-contact-strength
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym! Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Special Thanks to The Wall Climbing Gym
00:11 Skit
01:27 Intro and Context
02:10 Part 1: Contact Strength and Climbing Ability
05:10 Part 2: Contact Strength Protects and Heals You
06:03 Part 3: Should Everyone Train Contact Strength?
09:47 Part 4: Contact Strength in the Real World
12:12 Final Thoughts
13:00 Bloopers
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 98
In the last video we establish what contact strength refers to in a scientific sense. And if you know the definition of contact strength, it should be kind of obvious why it’s important for climbers. But in this video, I want to move past the “common sense” reasons and see what the research has to say, because I found some of it to be quite interesting and even a bit surprising. We’re also going to talk about the huge elephant in the room, which is how contact strength in the real world might not be quite as simple as it appears in research. So cinch down those shoes and chalk those sweaty tips, ‘cause we’re about to send it!
CONTACT STRENGTH IS CORRELATED WITH CLIMBING ABILITY
ARTICLE I
First, let’s look at a short excerpt from Levernier G et al in their paper: “Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers.”
If you couldn’t tell from the title, the researchers found that specific finger training increased the contact strength of elite climbers. They concluded that because the window of time climbers have to develop force on a hold is so small, “...increasing the RFD is, therefore, a crucial way to increase performance.” This conclusion is just the researchers’ opinion, but it aligns with the SAID principle.
The SAID principle says that each sport imposes unique demands on the body, so to improve at that sport, you should practice the moves that impose those demands. You want Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. With climbing, there are often moves where you need to develop a lot of force in a short amount of time. So, according to SAID, you should train in a way that increases your rate of force development.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/why-climbers-should-care-about-contact-strength
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist
