Uploaded August 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// CITATIONS //
- Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads - bit.ly/3JAAsFj
- An Anatomical study of the mechanical Interactions of Flexor Digitorum Superficialis and profundus and the Flexor Tendon Sheath in Zone 2 - bit.ly/3BCxCxz
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// SHOW NOTES //
Did you know that humans share a similar feature in our tendon and pulley structure to bats? As it turns out, we have tiny ridges on our pulleys that create friction against our FDP tendon when under load, like crimping. Similar to the spines on a cat’s tongue, the friction is believed to only be created in one direction, allowing the tendon to slide past the pulley in the other direction. In bats, the pulley interlocks with the tendon so well that they’re able to hang upside down while they sleep and even after they die! With humans, the friction is much lower, with researchers calculating that it contributes to about 9% of our holding force during a crimp. This may cause some people to speculate that working against this friction in an eccentric motion could lead to pulley injuries, such as moving from a half crimp to a drag. Is that true? Well, only if the force on the pulley is very high during the movement, like if your foot blows off the hold and all your body weight suddenly forces your half open. However, in more controlled situations like eccentric finger rolls or mobile board eccentrics, the load is not likely high enough to cause a traumatic injury. And that’s today’s beta!
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Bat: Anton 17, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Hand: Evan-Amos, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bat: Eric Kilby from Somerville, MA, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bat: Gilles San Martin from Namur, Belgium, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// CITATIONS //
- Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads - bit.ly/3JAAsFj
- An Anatomical study of the mechanical Interactions of Flexor Digitorum Superficialis and profundus and the Flexor Tendon Sheath in Zone 2 - bit.ly/3BCxCxz
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// SHOW NOTES //
Did you know that humans share a similar feature in our tendon and pulley structure to bats? As it turns out, we have tiny ridges on our pulleys that create friction against our FDP tendon when under load, like crimping. Similar to the spines on a cat’s tongue, the friction is believed to only be created in one direction, allowing the tendon to slide past the pulley in the other direction. In bats, the pulley interlocks with the tendon so well that they’re able to hang upside down while they sleep and even after they die! With humans, the friction is much lower, with researchers calculating that it contributes to about 9% of our holding force during a crimp. This may cause some people to speculate that working against this friction in an eccentric motion could lead to pulley injuries, such as moving from a half crimp to a drag. Is that true? Well, only if the force on the pulley is very high during the movement, like if your foot blows off the hold and all your body weight suddenly forces your half open. However, in more controlled situations like eccentric finger rolls or mobile board eccentrics, the load is not likely high enough to cause a traumatic injury. And that’s today’s beta!
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Bat: Anton 17, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Hand: Evan-Amos, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bat: Eric Kilby from Somerville, MA, USA, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bat: Gilles San Martin from Namur, Belgium, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
