Uploaded March 2021 | Updated September 2026, 3 days ago
Learn how to schedule your training around outdoor climbing days and trips for optimal performance.
RUNDOWN:
1:57 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
2:40 – Eric Horst climbing background - 44 years climbing and counting...
3:15 – Shoutout to two Physivantage pros - Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb - working on America's first potential V17!
4:50 – Thanks Drew Ruana and Matt Fultz for spreading the PhysiVantage word!
7:07 – The main topic: How to train indoors and stay strong while still performing outdoors
7:50 – Transfer your gains to real rock and be fresh!
8:15 – Don't "cram" our training. Taper off your training before a trip by 50%.
10:35 – Tips for folks in weekend warrior mode
11:45 – Tuesday (strength and power) & Wednesday (endurance oriented) should be main training days for weekend warriors!
12:50 – Give your nervous system 4-5 days to recover from intense power workouts
14:15 – Even on Tuesday power days, be careful not to overdo it. When in doubt, cut it off!
15:15 – Wednesday focus on endurance and power endurance (4 by 4s, route climbing, etc.)
15:30 – Thursday and Friday are rest and recovery days. (Go light Thursday, total recovery Friday)
16:00 – The "DUP" - Daily Undulating Periodization Program
17:00 – If you LIVE near a climbing area: How to use the gym and the boulders together
18:00 – Additional strength exercises after bouldering outside (for advanced climbers)
19:00 – You need complete rest days!
19:40 – Tips for those who live a far distance from outdoor climbing and focus on climbing trips
21:15 – Consider training cycles / blocks
22:25 – It takes planning, dedication, a system, and motivation
24:00 – Don't ignore your tweaks!
25:45 – Listen to your body and pay attention to your recovery habits!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
26:36 – Is kettlebell conditioning beneficial to climbing?
29:28 – For weekend warrior sport climbers, is it okay to only train max strength (in a week) with ARCing or is it important to include one session of strength endurance as well?
32:10 – Did you hear about Emil's protocol about light hangboarding for 30 days based on tendon adaptations with light frequent load?
34:50 – Is it beneficial to do max hangs on pockets (for the different finger groups) if I rarely climb on them?
36:55 – Due to lockdown uncertainty, how do I adjust a training plan to get me peaking after 4 weeks (in preparation for a climbing trip) as opposed to the usual 6-8 weeks?
39:40 – One last question: Any good breathing techniques prior to getting on a route?
42:20 – Thoughts on training power and power endurance in the same day?
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Learn how to schedule your training around outdoor climbing days and trips for optimal performance.
RUNDOWN:
1:57 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
2:40 – Eric Horst climbing background - 44 years climbing and counting...
3:15 – Shoutout to two Physivantage pros - Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb - working on America's first potential V17!
4:50 – Thanks Drew Ruana and Matt Fultz for spreading the PhysiVantage word!
7:07 – The main topic: How to train indoors and stay strong while still performing outdoors
7:50 – Transfer your gains to real rock and be fresh!
8:15 – Don't "cram" our training. Taper off your training before a trip by 50%.
10:35 – Tips for folks in weekend warrior mode
11:45 – Tuesday (strength and power) & Wednesday (endurance oriented) should be main training days for weekend warriors!
12:50 – Give your nervous system 4-5 days to recover from intense power workouts
14:15 – Even on Tuesday power days, be careful not to overdo it. When in doubt, cut it off!
15:15 – Wednesday focus on endurance and power endurance (4 by 4s, route climbing, etc.)
15:30 – Thursday and Friday are rest and recovery days. (Go light Thursday, total recovery Friday)
16:00 – The "DUP" - Daily Undulating Periodization Program
17:00 – If you LIVE near a climbing area: How to use the gym and the boulders together
18:00 – Additional strength exercises after bouldering outside (for advanced climbers)
19:00 – You need complete rest days!
19:40 – Tips for those who live a far distance from outdoor climbing and focus on climbing trips
21:15 – Consider training cycles / blocks
22:25 – It takes planning, dedication, a system, and motivation
24:00 – Don't ignore your tweaks!
25:45 – Listen to your body and pay attention to your recovery habits!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
26:36 – Is kettlebell conditioning beneficial to climbing?
29:28 – For weekend warrior sport climbers, is it okay to only train max strength (in a week) with ARCing or is it important to include one session of strength endurance as well?
32:10 – Did you hear about Emil's protocol about light hangboarding for 30 days based on tendon adaptations with light frequent load?
34:50 – Is it beneficial to do max hangs on pockets (for the different finger groups) if I rarely climb on them?
36:55 – Due to lockdown uncertainty, how do I adjust a training plan to get me peaking after 4 weeks (in preparation for a climbing trip) as opposed to the usual 6-8 weeks?
39:40 – One last question: Any good breathing techniques prior to getting on a route?
42:20 – Thoughts on training power and power endurance in the same day?
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
