Uploaded August 2021 | Updated September 2026, 4 days ago
Coach Hörst talks about the pros & cons of in-season hangboard finger training -- how much (and how intense) can you go without hurting outdoor climbing performance?
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
0:35 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite.
2:05 - Eric's SHOUT OUT to Stefano Ghisophi on sending Bibliography. Eric sounds in on the downgrade to 5.15c/9b+
4:50 - A look at the Hörst home gym...and Cameron Hörst training for his trip to Germany.
7:00 - Eric explains about his "111" shirt...a tribute to a fallen soldier (and fellow climber).
8:30 - MAIN TOPIC: In-season Hangboard training -- Should you do significant hangboarding during your outdoor performance climbing season?
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
17:50 - Getting into climbing at age 33, how long can I improve at bouldering...before transitioning to route climbing?
22:25 - As a route-setter, working a long day setting--and testing--boulders between V0 and V9...what kind of a training day is this, and how do I train and climb on other days to perform my best?
26:54 - Can I do onsight climbing outdoors during a strength/power phase of my training cycle?
36:18 - I climb outside every Sunday, so how shall I organize bouldering and hangboard training?
40:50 - Which finger training protocols develop neurological versus structure adaptations?
44:55 - Does the nervous system get affected by weight lifting? How long must I rest between lifting and climbing?
46:50 - How much difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions of your Training For Climbing book? physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
48:45 - Getting into climbing later in age, how do I balance short-term gains with development for the long game?
53:25 - Tips for rehabbing and returning from an ankle sprain?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Coach Hörst talks about the pros & cons of in-season hangboard finger training -- how much (and how intense) can you go without hurting outdoor climbing performance?
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
0:35 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite.
2:05 - Eric's SHOUT OUT to Stefano Ghisophi on sending Bibliography. Eric sounds in on the downgrade to 5.15c/9b+
4:50 - A look at the Hörst home gym...and Cameron Hörst training for his trip to Germany.
7:00 - Eric explains about his "111" shirt...a tribute to a fallen soldier (and fellow climber).
8:30 - MAIN TOPIC: In-season Hangboard training -- Should you do significant hangboarding during your outdoor performance climbing season?
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
17:50 - Getting into climbing at age 33, how long can I improve at bouldering...before transitioning to route climbing?
22:25 - As a route-setter, working a long day setting--and testing--boulders between V0 and V9...what kind of a training day is this, and how do I train and climb on other days to perform my best?
26:54 - Can I do onsight climbing outdoors during a strength/power phase of my training cycle?
36:18 - I climb outside every Sunday, so how shall I organize bouldering and hangboard training?
40:50 - Which finger training protocols develop neurological versus structure adaptations?
44:55 - Does the nervous system get affected by weight lifting? How long must I rest between lifting and climbing?
46:50 - How much difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions of your Training For Climbing book? physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
48:45 - Getting into climbing later in age, how do I balance short-term gains with development for the long game?
53:25 - Tips for rehabbing and returning from an ankle sprain?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
