My new favorite process combines 3D printing & precision tack welding to make the best prototypes @NeedItMakeIt

Uploaded April 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago

There is nothing better than creating something from scratch
Help support this channel! patreon.com/Needitmakeit

Use Coupon NM100 for $100 off of a 1200Watt Metal Fab or Bundle
xtool.com/products/xtool-metalfab-laser-welder-and-cnc-cutters?ref=mqxcefeo&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=goaffpro&utm_term=5306

A short list to help support this channel, thank you so much for your help!
Bambu H2C - tidd.ly/3K3sSY9 (If you print with color, this is the way)
Bambu P2S - tidd.ly/3ISZkfq (Best value)
Bambu H2S - tidd.ly/4olSRbL (Most options for money)
Bambu H2D - tidd.ly/4q9RsHk (A dual color beast)
Bambu Filament Shown in Videos - tidd.ly/4hn6TYI
Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid) - amzn.to/3vcMKAr
Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy) - amzn.to/3NBFvZe

I've had this idea for a long time, probably 5 years at least and I was finally able to build it. I started with what I know best, 3D printing the parts and I'm glad I did because I found one stupid mistake and a few small changes too. Knowing that all of the parts fit together well, I made two test pieces with the xTool Metal fab and they fit like a glove, so it was on to the rest of the parts. The most satisfying part of the video wasn't the testing, it was the tack welding if you can believe it. Being able to connect metal parts quickly and accurately makes a difference and it makes me want to get outside and do even more. I can't want to show you what I have coming up in the next project.

#xtool
#3dprinting
#woodstove
#diy

My new favorite process combines 3D printing & precision tack welding to make the best prototypes

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$Let Your Creality K1 MAX and K1 Printers Soak for the Best First Layers This is really easy to do, and now you dont need to think to get better results. Help support this channel! https://www.patreon.com/Needitmakeit Youre not along if youre having trouble getting a good first layer on your K1 or K1 Max printer. With the Max, we found out that with such a fast heating cycle, and the larger and thin bed were getting a lot of warpage, but we also found that the warpage didnt stop right away, the bed changed shape and then began to change back. Most of the settling back happened within 10 minutes but it continued for as long as 20 minutes. In this video I wanted to show you a way to pre-heat automatically so that you dont need to think about it. **Special note: The Max takes only 5 minutes to reach 100C, its far faster than most other printers, adding a bit of time back to this heating cycle is a good idea and will give you the best results with the thickness of aluminum plate were dealing with. Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my Amazon affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support! NEW MIC (I bought this) https://amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid) https://amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy) BAMBU PRINTERS https://shrsl.com/4aghz CREALITY PRINTERS https://shrsl.com/4aghy CREALITY HYPER PLA https://shrsl.com/4aghn Here is the info you need to copy and paste (Starting with M190 of course) These are all for 9 minutes, I will work towards a follow up video to set a variable time... I dont know how to do this yet. ***WE HAVE AN UPDATE (Originals are first, we also have auto-time adjust below) Thanks to @stew675 for this very elegant solution ORCA(Original)🐋 M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] G4 P540000 ORCA(Auto-time)🐋 M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000} CREALITY PRINT(Original)🟦 M190 S[material_bed_temperature_layer_0] G4 P540000 CREALITY PRINT(Auto-time)🟦 M190 S[material_bed_temperature_layer_0] G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000} PRUSA SLICER(Original)🟠 M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] G4 P540000 PRUSA SLICER(Auto-time)🟠 M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000} #creality #crealityk1 #3dprinting$

My Prusa MK4S COLD SPOTS were bad, so I fixed them! Now the MK4S has the most even heat