Uploaded December 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Is the simplest solution always the best? Or, is the experimental solution the way to go? We're looking at a few ways to make stronger prints in this video.
Help support this channel! patreon.com/Needitmakeit
We had a pretty epic but funny fail, I made a set of prints for a friend looking to make his Yaseu FT-891 Radio portable. I found a nicely designed set and printed them for him and then went and sent him a short video showing that they were flexible so we were pretty confident that they'd work well. Well he arrived and we were about to mount them, and he accidently broke one by twisting it, like I had in my video to him. It made me wonder if this was the right solution to use on an expensive radio and if I should modify the design to make it stronger.
I came up with a few different options but thought about using a technique that I had used in woodworking called steam bending, aligning the 'grain' of the plastic to be continuous.
Each of these prints were made from the same spool of filament, extremely dry and printed with no fans. The original model which broke was printed with normal fans and the door was open on the printer. I forgot to mention that part in the video.
Check out the video for all of the details, it was a lot of fun and I learned quite a bit on this one.
I hope you found this video helpful and interesting!
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
Original Design:
thingiverse.com/thing:4757295
Remix:
thingiverse.com/thing:6395065
#bambu
#crealityk1
#3dprinting
Is the simplest solution always the best? Or, is the experimental solution the way to go? We're looking at a few ways to make stronger prints in this video.
Help support this channel! patreon.com/Needitmakeit
We had a pretty epic but funny fail, I made a set of prints for a friend looking to make his Yaseu FT-891 Radio portable. I found a nicely designed set and printed them for him and then went and sent him a short video showing that they were flexible so we were pretty confident that they'd work well. Well he arrived and we were about to mount them, and he accidently broke one by twisting it, like I had in my video to him. It made me wonder if this was the right solution to use on an expensive radio and if I should modify the design to make it stronger.
I came up with a few different options but thought about using a technique that I had used in woodworking called steam bending, aligning the 'grain' of the plastic to be continuous.
Each of these prints were made from the same spool of filament, extremely dry and printed with no fans. The original model which broke was printed with normal fans and the door was open on the printer. I forgot to mention that part in the video.
Check out the video for all of the details, it was a lot of fun and I learned quite a bit on this one.
I hope you found this video helpful and interesting!
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
Original Design:
thingiverse.com/thing:4757295
Remix:
thingiverse.com/thing:6395065
#bambu
#crealityk1
#3dprinting

![Let Your Creality K1 MAX and K1 Printers Soak for the Best First Layers
This is really easy to do, and now you dont need to think to get better results.
Help support this channel! https://www.patreon.com/Needitmakeit
Youre not along if youre having trouble getting a good first layer on your K1 or K1 Max printer. With the Max, we found out that with such a fast heating cycle, and the larger and thin bed were getting a lot of warpage, but we also found that the warpage didnt stop right away, the bed changed shape and then began to change back. Most of the settling back happened within 10 minutes but it continued for as long as 20 minutes.
In this video I wanted to show you a way to pre-heat automatically so that you dont need to think about it.
**Special note: The Max takes only 5 minutes to reach 100C, its far faster than most other printers, adding a bit of time back to this heating cycle is a good idea and will give you the best results with the thickness of aluminum plate were dealing with.
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my Amazon affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
https://amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
https://amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
https://shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
https://shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
https://shrsl.com/4aghn
Here is the info you need to copy and paste (Starting with M190 of course) These are all for 9 minutes, I will work towards a follow up video to set a variable time... I dont know how to do this yet.
***WE HAVE AN UPDATE (Originals are first, we also have auto-time adjust below)
Thanks to @stew675 for this very elegant solution
ORCA(Original)🐋
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
G4 P540000
ORCA(Auto-time)🐋
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000}
CREALITY PRINT(Original)🟦
M190 S[material_bed_temperature_layer_0]
G4 P540000
CREALITY PRINT(Auto-time)🟦
M190 S[material_bed_temperature_layer_0]
G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000}
PRUSA SLICER(Original)🟠
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
G4 P540000
PRUSA SLICER(Auto-time)🟠
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
G4 P{max(0, first_layer_bed_temperature[0] -10) * 6000}
#creality
#crealityk1
#3dprinting Let Your Creality K1 MAX and K1 Printers Soak for the Best First Layers](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eRP7aqOyKBk/mqdefault.jpg)








