Uploaded March 2026 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
The door handle unit is dismantled and the problem sticky part is fixed by a small bit of grinding away of plastic. It is dismantled enough to remove the spring tension which makes diagnosing the sticky part of the mechanism easier, however this full level of dismantling can be avoided now that the problem part has been identified, since grinding on the part in question can be done at an early stage of dismantling.
Skip to around 13mins if you just want to start on fixing the part in question.
Chapters:
0:00 - Demonstrating the sticky handle problem
0:57 - Why lubrication alone isn't a permanent fix
1:51 - Removing the interior door panel
2:25 - Door disassembly (+quick reminder on key fob)
4:00 - Releasing the window glass for handle access
5:38 - Removing the handle unit from the door
6:16 - Taking the handle assembly apart
7:30 - Identifying the tight plastic tolerances
8:35 - Is this a handle issue or a latch issue?
11:00 - Dismantling the handle levers and electronics
13:00 - Finding the specific "sticky bit" on the arms
13:52 - Grinding the plastic for better clearance
15:34 - Cleaning and lubricating with Molybdenum grease
17:15 - Reassembling the gears and handle
18:11 - Testing the handle before installation
18:26 - Final door assembly and smooth operation test
19:23 - Conclusion: Save a lot of money!
Lubrication does help for a few months but ultimately you will want to do this modification.
Save over $1000 on new handles by fixing the stickiness of the old ones.
Once the handles no longer stick out the most common reason for the door not opening is fixed. Even on 12V power failure. I have tested this. See exceptions * note below.
Here are some tests checking the safety:youtu.be/PTPLu2yAeng
* Note: there is also the door latch design issue that if the interior handle is pulled out and kept out before an unlock then this prevents the opening of the door. It needs to be released then lock-unlock and then pulled again to get out. This is a similar situation and cause as when the exterior handle is stuck out. The problem is caused by the door latch design not the handle unit.
Related to this is a very rare case, but nonetheless a reported case of entrapment caused by 12v failure at the exact same time as doors were being locked, where the door latch locks then immediately the 12v fails before the exterior handles have had time to close. This then looks like the situation where the handles stick out after locking and exit is prevented. In that case all 4 doors are affected the same and entrapment occurs. I believe this is prevented by a “compensatory mechanism” in the gen2a door handle unit, so that an open exterior handle doesn’t indicate a partial handle pull to the door latch unit. This prevents the door latch from being disabled. The issue is much more of a door latch design issue. Probably it was more difficult to get the door latch redeisgned (made in china) than it was to ask for a door handle unit redesign (made in uk).
BY WATCHING THIS VIDEO YOU ACCEPT FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY VEHICLE CHANGES YOU DO. NO LIABILITY ACCEPTED. THIS IS JUST MY STORY
So here are most of the parts I used, from Amazon or eBay at the best prices and availability as I write this. Using these links will not cost you any more than going there without using these, but it does earn me some few coins and saves you a bit of time. As an Amazon and eBay Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Torx bits sets: T15, T20 , T30: amzn.to/2XlOK3h
Grinding stone (mine was 5 cm): amzn.to/4uWsf5f
Trim/Panel removal: amzn.to/4c6jjCW
A 10mm socket /spanner in tool set: amzn.to/4n3GQY5
Magnet: amzn.to/4bNyv6L
Grease: amzn.to/4c4ugoG
Subscribe to the channel for similar DIY, fixing stuff, car bits and tech reviews here:
youtube.com/subscribe_widget?p=comeinhandynow
Note, if you want to be notified of new videos click on the bell symbol on my home page.
See other videos on my channel here:
youtube.com/user/comeinhandynow
Lots of playlists on different DIY subjects, with hundreds of videos that I have done here: youtube.com/@comeinhandynow/playlists
Appreciation tips: paypal.me/comeinhandy
Useful DIY stuff:
Screwdriver set: amzn.to/4oIcD2e
Multimeter for testing voltages etc: amzn.to/4mCVXrI
Soldering iron kit: amzn.to/3HFLDzS
Gloves: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
Precision screwdrivers: amzn.to/2Z322T5
I’m on Facebook here: facebook.com/comeinhandynow
The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take.
The door handle unit is dismantled and the problem sticky part is fixed by a small bit of grinding away of plastic. It is dismantled enough to remove the spring tension which makes diagnosing the sticky part of the mechanism easier, however this full level of dismantling can be avoided now that the problem part has been identified, since grinding on the part in question can be done at an early stage of dismantling.
Skip to around 13mins if you just want to start on fixing the part in question.
Chapters:
0:00 - Demonstrating the sticky handle problem
0:57 - Why lubrication alone isn't a permanent fix
1:51 - Removing the interior door panel
2:25 - Door disassembly (+quick reminder on key fob)
4:00 - Releasing the window glass for handle access
5:38 - Removing the handle unit from the door
6:16 - Taking the handle assembly apart
7:30 - Identifying the tight plastic tolerances
8:35 - Is this a handle issue or a latch issue?
11:00 - Dismantling the handle levers and electronics
13:00 - Finding the specific "sticky bit" on the arms
13:52 - Grinding the plastic for better clearance
15:34 - Cleaning and lubricating with Molybdenum grease
17:15 - Reassembling the gears and handle
18:11 - Testing the handle before installation
18:26 - Final door assembly and smooth operation test
19:23 - Conclusion: Save a lot of money!
Lubrication does help for a few months but ultimately you will want to do this modification.
Save over $1000 on new handles by fixing the stickiness of the old ones.
Once the handles no longer stick out the most common reason for the door not opening is fixed. Even on 12V power failure. I have tested this. See exceptions * note below.
Here are some tests checking the safety:youtu.be/PTPLu2yAeng
* Note: there is also the door latch design issue that if the interior handle is pulled out and kept out before an unlock then this prevents the opening of the door. It needs to be released then lock-unlock and then pulled again to get out. This is a similar situation and cause as when the exterior handle is stuck out. The problem is caused by the door latch design not the handle unit.
Related to this is a very rare case, but nonetheless a reported case of entrapment caused by 12v failure at the exact same time as doors were being locked, where the door latch locks then immediately the 12v fails before the exterior handles have had time to close. This then looks like the situation where the handles stick out after locking and exit is prevented. In that case all 4 doors are affected the same and entrapment occurs. I believe this is prevented by a “compensatory mechanism” in the gen2a door handle unit, so that an open exterior handle doesn’t indicate a partial handle pull to the door latch unit. This prevents the door latch from being disabled. The issue is much more of a door latch design issue. Probably it was more difficult to get the door latch redeisgned (made in china) than it was to ask for a door handle unit redesign (made in uk).
BY WATCHING THIS VIDEO YOU ACCEPT FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY VEHICLE CHANGES YOU DO. NO LIABILITY ACCEPTED. THIS IS JUST MY STORY
So here are most of the parts I used, from Amazon or eBay at the best prices and availability as I write this. Using these links will not cost you any more than going there without using these, but it does earn me some few coins and saves you a bit of time. As an Amazon and eBay Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Torx bits sets: T15, T20 , T30: amzn.to/2XlOK3h
Grinding stone (mine was 5 cm): amzn.to/4uWsf5f
Trim/Panel removal: amzn.to/4c6jjCW
A 10mm socket /spanner in tool set: amzn.to/4n3GQY5
Magnet: amzn.to/4bNyv6L
Grease: amzn.to/4c4ugoG
Subscribe to the channel for similar DIY, fixing stuff, car bits and tech reviews here:
youtube.com/subscribe_widget?p=comeinhandynow
Note, if you want to be notified of new videos click on the bell symbol on my home page.
See other videos on my channel here:
youtube.com/user/comeinhandynow
Lots of playlists on different DIY subjects, with hundreds of videos that I have done here: youtube.com/@comeinhandynow/playlists
Appreciation tips: paypal.me/comeinhandy
Useful DIY stuff:
Screwdriver set: amzn.to/4oIcD2e
Multimeter for testing voltages etc: amzn.to/4mCVXrI
Soldering iron kit: amzn.to/3HFLDzS
Gloves: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
Precision screwdrivers: amzn.to/2Z322T5
I’m on Facebook here: facebook.com/comeinhandynow
The video is about my personal opinion and experience and contains no paid for product placements. No responsibility is accepted for any perceived recommendation for or against a product or feature nor any consequential damage or harm since this video is just my personal experience. You accept by watching this video that you accept any responsibility for any subsequent actions or decisions that you take.
