Hoopers Beta | Best Rehab Tool for Finger Injuries: Farmer Crimps @HoopersBeta | Uploaded July 2019 | Updated October 2024, 1 hour ago.
In Episode 5 we discuss a little known and under-utilized form of rehab AND training I like to call "Farmer Crimps". Enjoy!
Special thanks again to @thewallclimbinggym for the location.
Climbers Elbow - What it is and how to treat it - youtu.be/vaLFC1pG_OI
Increasing crimp strength for intermediate climbers - youtu.be/hkrat77RUm0
For more info visit RockTherapyPT.com
Instagram: @rocktherapypt
Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
Instagram: @emile166
In Episode 5 we discuss a little known and under-utilized form of rehab AND training I like to call "Farmer Crimps". Enjoy!
Special thanks again to @thewallclimbinggym for the location.
Climbers Elbow - What it is and how to treat it - youtu.be/vaLFC1pG_OI
Increasing crimp strength for intermediate climbers - youtu.be/hkrat77RUm0
For more info visit RockTherapyPT.com
Instagram: @rocktherapypt
Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
Instagram: @emile166
![How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_-YapmymjA/hqdefault.jpg "How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]
⚠️Block pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?
REFERENCES:
Lattice x Yves Video: https://youtu.be/nhyk765nw-8
Loading Pin (normal length): https://amzn.to/3H8ypbw
Loading Pin (short): https://amzn.to/3mSWmN5
Frictitious Boards (affiliate - $10 with code hoopers): https://bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPERS BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
🤚 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
🚢 Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code hoopers: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🙋♂️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Overview
01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video
PART 1: CONTEXT
01:49 Background Info: Why are no hangs so popular now?
02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise?
07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!!
PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN
08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use?
09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps?
11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use?
11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use?
12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight?
PART 3: GETTING STARTED
13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly?
14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds?
PART 4: FIRST SESSION
16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard?
18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight?
21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts?
PART 5: PROGRAMMING
24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this?
24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this?
25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this?
25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training?
PART 6: PROGRESSION
26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving?
28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working?
31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability?
32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 128
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-finger-strength-with-no-hangs
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpulls")
![How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Iy8wi_u5oFI/hqdefault.jpg "How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPERS BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
🤚 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
🚢 Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code hoopers: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🙋♂️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
Videos mentioned:
Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): https://youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: Bad Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 125
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-for-climbing-full-body-guide
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons")
![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/LpAxwEo7iXA/hqdefault.jpg "How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]
Is this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka mixed hangs. Theyre so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they dont require any weights or additional equipment!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPERS BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code hoopers: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Overview
00:31 Part 1: Advantages
02:44 Part 2: Getting Started
03:43 How do I know what holds to use?
05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level
06:36 Part 3: Progressing
06:52 Progression Step 1
07:48 Progression Step 2
08:20 Progression Step 3
09:16 Part 4: Recommendations
09:25 Improving Efficiency
10:06 Frequency
10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning
11:23 Getting Unstuck
12:21 Remember the Premise
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 132
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields-fingers-of-steel-w/-no-weights
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy")
