Hoopers Beta | Can't Get to the Climbing Gym? Do this Hangboard Routine to Stay Strong | Home Hangboarding Pt. 1 @HoopersBeta | Uploaded May 2020 | Updated October 2024, 3 hours ago.
Channels mentioned in the beginning of the video:
@ShaunaCoxseyClimber @magmidt @athleanx
// Timestamps //
Some fun to start things off (00:00)
Video Overview (00:55)
Warm Up #1 (01:53)
Warm Up #2 (2:32)
What is "Effort Level"? (2:54)
Round 1: Submax (3:35)
Round 2: Recruitment (4:28)
Round 3: Submax with weight (6:21)
Round 4: Minimum Edge (8:05)
Round 5: Burnout Hangboard Pullup Variations (10:48)
Alternative Exercises (11:51)
When to move on to Int/Adv (12:04)
I want to start by saying that the show notes are really important and helpful in this. It is hard to take a 45 minute long routine and compress it into a less than 15 minute video, and I cannot include all of the notes in this description (5,000 character limit hah), so PLEASE check out the blog posting at hoopersbeta.com/library
Intro
This hangboard workout is a long routine and will take 45+ minutes to complete with appropriate rests. It is meant to be a hangboard workout, emulating climbing and training. There are loads of factors to modify based upon your skill level, so make sure to read all of the notes. Remember, there is no perfect hangboard routine, the best routine is one that allows you to safely load your tissue in a way to enhance your climbing without suffering an injury.
These show notes will go through each section of the routine chronologically so you can read along while performing the routine. It will also have notes to help better understand each movement so it can be performed safer.
This is the introductory routine. This doesn’t mean beginner. You may have some experience hangboarding but haven’t hangboarded in a while, or you may be an experienced climber looking to get into hangboarding to add to your training, DON’T start with the intermediate/advanced routine if you meet those categories. As we said before, you can’t keep training if you’re hurt.
Layout
This routine will be broken down into a few sections. It will focus on a proper warm up which will include both physical and neurological aspects. It will have a max effort round, and it will have a bonus advancement at the end to build on your training to increase contacts, such as with a longer climbing session
This routine was initially designed in the mindset that the gyms are closed, crags are closed (in many areas), but we want to maintain or even improve our strength. Hence, why it has more contacts than a normal routine., while still promoting safety. The great thing about this program after having made it is that it is quite versatile. It can be used
For climbers who climb outside only and don’t have access to a gym but do have access to a hangboard (maybe in a sweet sprinter van)
For those who may be traveling and have no climbing access but can find or has access to a hangboard
For this looking to simply add a great routine into their busy lifestyle to keep them closer to home and not at the gym all the time.
The other thing that specifically went into designing this program is utilizing the breaks with other tools that will benefit our climbing. The core exercises were chosen to promote shoulder stability and core strength in ways that will help our climbing. The stretches were also chosen to help work on mobility that will benefit climbing skills. Now, despite doing the added exercises, with the good rests you are taking, you won’t feel the same “pump” you would feel at the end of climbing 10 sport routes, for example, but that is good, stop chasing the pump. This is a strength building program, you do not need to be producing muscle burn to be effective. That is training another energy system. If you don’t trust me, trust the research done in the styles that went into this routine including work by the great Dr. Eva Lopez.
For the rest of the show notes, please check out the blog as mentioned before (www.hoopersbeta.com).
You can also find a google excel doc at docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1F12bV56-rFVcQo7lxPj8QAn-B6EcUbVxTx8dNE_sc4g/edit?usp=sharing
Disclaimer: As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
Channels mentioned in the beginning of the video:
@ShaunaCoxseyClimber @magmidt @athleanx
// Timestamps //
Some fun to start things off (00:00)
Video Overview (00:55)
Warm Up #1 (01:53)
Warm Up #2 (2:32)
What is "Effort Level"? (2:54)
Round 1: Submax (3:35)
Round 2: Recruitment (4:28)
Round 3: Submax with weight (6:21)
Round 4: Minimum Edge (8:05)
Round 5: Burnout Hangboard Pullup Variations (10:48)
Alternative Exercises (11:51)
When to move on to Int/Adv (12:04)
I want to start by saying that the show notes are really important and helpful in this. It is hard to take a 45 minute long routine and compress it into a less than 15 minute video, and I cannot include all of the notes in this description (5,000 character limit hah), so PLEASE check out the blog posting at hoopersbeta.com/library
Intro
This hangboard workout is a long routine and will take 45+ minutes to complete with appropriate rests. It is meant to be a hangboard workout, emulating climbing and training. There are loads of factors to modify based upon your skill level, so make sure to read all of the notes. Remember, there is no perfect hangboard routine, the best routine is one that allows you to safely load your tissue in a way to enhance your climbing without suffering an injury.
These show notes will go through each section of the routine chronologically so you can read along while performing the routine. It will also have notes to help better understand each movement so it can be performed safer.
This is the introductory routine. This doesn’t mean beginner. You may have some experience hangboarding but haven’t hangboarded in a while, or you may be an experienced climber looking to get into hangboarding to add to your training, DON’T start with the intermediate/advanced routine if you meet those categories. As we said before, you can’t keep training if you’re hurt.
Layout
This routine will be broken down into a few sections. It will focus on a proper warm up which will include both physical and neurological aspects. It will have a max effort round, and it will have a bonus advancement at the end to build on your training to increase contacts, such as with a longer climbing session
This routine was initially designed in the mindset that the gyms are closed, crags are closed (in many areas), but we want to maintain or even improve our strength. Hence, why it has more contacts than a normal routine., while still promoting safety. The great thing about this program after having made it is that it is quite versatile. It can be used
For climbers who climb outside only and don’t have access to a gym but do have access to a hangboard (maybe in a sweet sprinter van)
For those who may be traveling and have no climbing access but can find or has access to a hangboard
For this looking to simply add a great routine into their busy lifestyle to keep them closer to home and not at the gym all the time.
The other thing that specifically went into designing this program is utilizing the breaks with other tools that will benefit our climbing. The core exercises were chosen to promote shoulder stability and core strength in ways that will help our climbing. The stretches were also chosen to help work on mobility that will benefit climbing skills. Now, despite doing the added exercises, with the good rests you are taking, you won’t feel the same “pump” you would feel at the end of climbing 10 sport routes, for example, but that is good, stop chasing the pump. This is a strength building program, you do not need to be producing muscle burn to be effective. That is training another energy system. If you don’t trust me, trust the research done in the styles that went into this routine including work by the great Dr. Eva Lopez.
For the rest of the show notes, please check out the blog as mentioned before (www.hoopersbeta.com).
You can also find a google excel doc at docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1F12bV56-rFVcQo7lxPj8QAn-B6EcUbVxTx8dNE_sc4g/edit?usp=sharing
Disclaimer: As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
