Uploaded January 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// DAN'S COACHING INFO //
testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
Email: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Instagram: instagram.com/daniel_beall
// SPECIAL THANKS //
-- Dylan Taylor (instagram.com/climberisms/) for the use of his beautiful "I Believe I Can Pssaaa" song as Jason's ringtone.
-- The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro skit - Basically a recap of the last video
01:53 Key context for this video
02:36 Method 1
04:16 Method 2
06:29 Method 3
07:13 Campus board routine with Dan Beall
12:06 When to perform this kind of training
12:33 Closing remarks and bloopers
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 99
You should know by now that contact strength refers to the rate of force development in our fingers. You should also know that contact strength in the real world, aka functional contact strength, is far more nuanced than this, as it’s a combination of RFD, mentality, and technique. This presents us with a dilemma: do we try to train pure RFD or do we take a holistic approach and try to improve on all those aspects?
The answer to that needs to be determined on an individual basis, because the “best” way to train contact strength will largely depend on your goals as a climber and your current training routine.
There are many variables that need to be considered when making this decision, making it impossible to give one ideal routine for every climber (contrary to what the internet seems to want!). Instead, we’re going to cover a few of the primary methods of contact strength training as well as a full sample routine by pro climber/coach/ultra nice guy Dan Beall.
Just keep in mind that there are tons of variations of contact strength training, and the exact methods we show in this video may or may not be right for you.
ON THE HANGBOARD
For training pure finger RFD, the hangboard can be a great tool due to having the fewest uncontrolled variables. Things like hold size and body position remain constant while aspects of commitment and footwork are essentially removed from the equation, which is great for allowing you to focus on the task at hand.
The other key benefit of this method, especially for us nerds, is that this is the way RFD research is performed, meaning it has scientific data to back it up. Also, because it relies on objective measurements, it’s a cinch to track your training progress.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-contact-strength12.5
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
First hangboard image: Frictitious Climbing
Second hangboard image: Fleebley, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// DAN'S COACHING INFO //
testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
Email: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Instagram: instagram.com/daniel_beall
// SPECIAL THANKS //
-- Dylan Taylor (instagram.com/climberisms/) for the use of his beautiful "I Believe I Can Pssaaa" song as Jason's ringtone.
-- The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro skit - Basically a recap of the last video
01:53 Key context for this video
02:36 Method 1
04:16 Method 2
06:29 Method 3
07:13 Campus board routine with Dan Beall
12:06 When to perform this kind of training
12:33 Closing remarks and bloopers
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 99
You should know by now that contact strength refers to the rate of force development in our fingers. You should also know that contact strength in the real world, aka functional contact strength, is far more nuanced than this, as it’s a combination of RFD, mentality, and technique. This presents us with a dilemma: do we try to train pure RFD or do we take a holistic approach and try to improve on all those aspects?
The answer to that needs to be determined on an individual basis, because the “best” way to train contact strength will largely depend on your goals as a climber and your current training routine.
There are many variables that need to be considered when making this decision, making it impossible to give one ideal routine for every climber (contrary to what the internet seems to want!). Instead, we’re going to cover a few of the primary methods of contact strength training as well as a full sample routine by pro climber/coach/ultra nice guy Dan Beall.
Just keep in mind that there are tons of variations of contact strength training, and the exact methods we show in this video may or may not be right for you.
ON THE HANGBOARD
For training pure finger RFD, the hangboard can be a great tool due to having the fewest uncontrolled variables. Things like hold size and body position remain constant while aspects of commitment and footwork are essentially removed from the equation, which is great for allowing you to focus on the task at hand.
The other key benefit of this method, especially for us nerds, is that this is the way RFD research is performed, meaning it has scientific data to back it up. Also, because it relies on objective measurements, it’s a cinch to track your training progress.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-contact-strength12.5
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
First hangboard image: Frictitious Climbing
Second hangboard image: Fleebley, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist
