Uploaded March 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview and Intro
00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions
01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1
02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO
03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2
04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO
05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3
06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO
06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4
07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5
08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers
08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1
09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2
10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO
11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions
12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1
13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2
15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3
16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO
17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4
19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO
22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting
23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1
24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO
25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2
26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3
28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice
29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1
32:08 Outro
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 126
hoopersbeta.com/library/identifying-5-climbing-fails-then-demonstrating-how-to-fix-them
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview and Intro
00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions
01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1
02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO
03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2
04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO
05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3
06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO
06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4
07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5
08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers
08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1
09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2
10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO
11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions
12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1
13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2
15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3
16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO
17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4
19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO
22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting
23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1
24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO
25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2
26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3
28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice
29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1
32:08 Outro
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 126
hoopersbeta.com/library/identifying-5-climbing-fails-then-demonstrating-how-to-fix-them
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
