Uploaded February 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// DAN'S COACHING INFO //
testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
Email: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Instagram: instagram.com/daniel_beall
// SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT US (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro and Disclaimer about Grades
00:29 Porkchop V3 - Hold Ergonomics and Pad Placement
01:56 Dusty Coffee V4 - Dyno Tactics and Top-out Mobility
03:19 Welcome to Detroit V4 - Body Positioning for Optimal Grip
04:21 The Pearl V5 - Mastery Over Smashery
06:24 Vino Rojo V6 - Pinches and Rows are Not Bicep Curls
09:16 Angel Dyno V7 - Anchor vs Support Hands Biomechanics
11:19 Monkey Wrench V7 - Is Scapular Winging a Problem?
13:40 Bubble Butt V7 - Excellent Scapular Control Example
15:03 Fear of the Black Hat V9 - Overcoming Fear of Falling
17:14 Monkey Trench V10 - Controlled vs Sloppy Dynamic Movement
18:41 Americana Exotica V10 - When You Need Off-the-Wall Training
20:10 Red Wave V10 - Changing Shoulder Engagement
21:01 Red Wave Low V11? - Jump Mechanics
22:22 Sleepwalker V16 - Biceps!!
22:47 Coaching with Dan Info
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 101
Intro
Welcome to another episode of Anatomy of the Climb! In this episode, we tried a very different style. We asked you, the viewers, to submit your favorite classic Red Rock climbs (and fails). Dan and I then reviewed them and broke down some of the most important aspects of each climb and provided tips on how you can improve your climbing! Let us know what you think of this new style!
Climb Info
Climber: Miguel Climbs
Climb: Porkchop
Grade: V3
While this is mostly a technical climb, I just want to point out that I see loads of patients that are quite weak in an open hand position and this may give them some difficulties because you aren’t really crimping anything here. It’s about good mobility, footwork, and some open hand strength. Don’t ignore that training!
Climber: Geoff Lyman
Climb: Dusty Coffee
Grade: V4
Hip mobility and ankle mobility are important for the high foot movement that he eventually uses to rock over
.......
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/critiquing-your-sends-fails-classic-red-rock-climbing-analysis-v3-v11
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Red Rock: Ybratcher, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Red Rock: Samartur, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Serratus Anterior: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Rhomboid: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Trapezius: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
EZ Bar: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #climbinganalysis
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// DAN'S COACHING INFO //
testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
Email: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Instagram: instagram.com/daniel_beall
// SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT US (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro and Disclaimer about Grades
00:29 Porkchop V3 - Hold Ergonomics and Pad Placement
01:56 Dusty Coffee V4 - Dyno Tactics and Top-out Mobility
03:19 Welcome to Detroit V4 - Body Positioning for Optimal Grip
04:21 The Pearl V5 - Mastery Over Smashery
06:24 Vino Rojo V6 - Pinches and Rows are Not Bicep Curls
09:16 Angel Dyno V7 - Anchor vs Support Hands Biomechanics
11:19 Monkey Wrench V7 - Is Scapular Winging a Problem?
13:40 Bubble Butt V7 - Excellent Scapular Control Example
15:03 Fear of the Black Hat V9 - Overcoming Fear of Falling
17:14 Monkey Trench V10 - Controlled vs Sloppy Dynamic Movement
18:41 Americana Exotica V10 - When You Need Off-the-Wall Training
20:10 Red Wave V10 - Changing Shoulder Engagement
21:01 Red Wave Low V11? - Jump Mechanics
22:22 Sleepwalker V16 - Biceps!!
22:47 Coaching with Dan Info
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 101
Intro
Welcome to another episode of Anatomy of the Climb! In this episode, we tried a very different style. We asked you, the viewers, to submit your favorite classic Red Rock climbs (and fails). Dan and I then reviewed them and broke down some of the most important aspects of each climb and provided tips on how you can improve your climbing! Let us know what you think of this new style!
Climb Info
Climber: Miguel Climbs
Climb: Porkchop
Grade: V3
While this is mostly a technical climb, I just want to point out that I see loads of patients that are quite weak in an open hand position and this may give them some difficulties because you aren’t really crimping anything here. It’s about good mobility, footwork, and some open hand strength. Don’t ignore that training!
Climber: Geoff Lyman
Climb: Dusty Coffee
Grade: V4
Hip mobility and ankle mobility are important for the high foot movement that he eventually uses to rock over
.......
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/critiquing-your-sends-fails-classic-red-rock-climbing-analysis-v3-v11
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Red Rock: Ybratcher, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Red Rock: Samartur, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Serratus Anterior: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Rhomboid: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Trapezius: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
EZ Bar: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #climbinganalysis
