Uploaded August 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
Nerve entrapment syndromes of the elbow, forearm, and wrist: bit.ly/3bRCi7U
Ulnar Nerve Anatomy: bit.ly/3dtzuyC
Treatment for ulnar neuropathy at the elbow: bit.ly/3pgg1DV
The validity of upper-limb neurodynamic tests for detecting peripheral neuropathic pain: bit.ly/3bQlu1e
Cubital Tunnel Syndrome: Current Concepts: bit.ly/3pggbLx
// SHOW NOTES //
Do you have nagging or weird pain at the inside of your elbow? You might think it’s the classic climber’s elbow or medial epicondylitis, but it could be something else entirely! Compression of the ulnar nerve that runs down our arm can cause similar symptoms to climber’s elbow, sometimes accompanied by numbness or tingling in the pinky and ring finger. The symptoms can also be fleeting, which can make this problem seem even more confusing! For example, you might only feel the pain in very specific climbing positions. This is because the ulnar nerve can become irritated or entrapped by the tricep, cubital tunnel, wrist, and/or finger flexors, all of which are active while climbing and doing pullups. In fact, pressure on the ulnar nerve is increased up to 20x when the elbow is flexed and loaded! Though the symptoms can be similar, this is a completely different issue that cannot be fixed with typical climber’s elbow rehab. Instead, you need to locate and solve the entrapment, which may involve nerve flossing, nerve tensioning, reducing exacerbating activities, and improving the mobility of the muscles causing the entrapment. We’ll be coming out with a full length video on this topic soon, so keep an eye out for that! And that’s today’s beta!
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Golfer's Elbow: www.scientificanimations.com, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ulnar Nerve: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
Nerve entrapment syndromes of the elbow, forearm, and wrist: bit.ly/3bRCi7U
Ulnar Nerve Anatomy: bit.ly/3dtzuyC
Treatment for ulnar neuropathy at the elbow: bit.ly/3pgg1DV
The validity of upper-limb neurodynamic tests for detecting peripheral neuropathic pain: bit.ly/3bQlu1e
Cubital Tunnel Syndrome: Current Concepts: bit.ly/3pggbLx
// SHOW NOTES //
Do you have nagging or weird pain at the inside of your elbow? You might think it’s the classic climber’s elbow or medial epicondylitis, but it could be something else entirely! Compression of the ulnar nerve that runs down our arm can cause similar symptoms to climber’s elbow, sometimes accompanied by numbness or tingling in the pinky and ring finger. The symptoms can also be fleeting, which can make this problem seem even more confusing! For example, you might only feel the pain in very specific climbing positions. This is because the ulnar nerve can become irritated or entrapped by the tricep, cubital tunnel, wrist, and/or finger flexors, all of which are active while climbing and doing pullups. In fact, pressure on the ulnar nerve is increased up to 20x when the elbow is flexed and loaded! Though the symptoms can be similar, this is a completely different issue that cannot be fixed with typical climber’s elbow rehab. Instead, you need to locate and solve the entrapment, which may involve nerve flossing, nerve tensioning, reducing exacerbating activities, and improving the mobility of the muscles causing the entrapment. We’ll be coming out with a full length video on this topic soon, so keep an eye out for that! And that’s today’s beta!
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Golfer's Elbow: www.scientificanimations.com, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ulnar Nerve: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy





![Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
// FULL LENGTH VIDS REFERENCED IN THIS VIDEO //
Before You Start Hangboarding: https://youtu.be/luL6LN5ALdo
Hip Mobility: https://youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4
Hip Mobility Yoga Routine: https://youtu.be/VZ7PuJR_e6Y
Lumbricals: https://youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU
Lower Traps: https://youtu.be/ 2_1hOfL00
Hamstring Injuries and Strengthening: https://youtu.be/wmeas5-mrFw
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code Hooper10
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Why This Matters
00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds
01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength
01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain
02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds
03:16 #6: Heel hook strength and safety
03:56 #5: For better body tension and control
04:53 #4: For strong healthy shoulders
05:37 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks
06:33 #2: For ripping holds off the wall
07:22 #1: For climbing better
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 119
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/top-10-undertrained-muscles-in-rock-climbers-niche-to-game-changing
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Flexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0
Glutes: Original by sv:Användare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0
Quadriceps: The original uploader was יוסי הראשון at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YVhsG_mk6LQ/mqdefault.jpg)




