Uploaded October 2020 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
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// Timestamps //
Overview and Context (00:00)
Reason #1 AGAINST (01:09)
Reason #2 AGAINST (03:14)
Reason #3 AGAINST (04:42)
Reasons Against Summary (06:17)
Reason #1 FOR (06:37)
Reason #2 FOR (08:49)
Reason #3 FOR (10:48)
Reasons For Summary (12:04)
My Recommendations for Climbers (12:20)
Outro and Bloopers (13:36)
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Should climbers weight train? Will it make you better at climbing? Or will you just gain mass and feel all heavy? Will it make you more prone to overuse injuries? Or will the added strength help prevent you from getting injured? Shouldn’t you be spending your time climbing and not lifting weights? But then how are you going to get stronger?
Just like running, this is a hotly debated and often misunderstood topic in the climbing community. So in this video, we’re going to present the top 3 reasons FOR and AGAINST resistance training for climbers. And we’re going to base those reasons on WHAT? Science!
After this video you’ll have all the info you need to decide for yourself whether or not weight training is appropriate for you.
Be sure to stay tuned until the end as I’ll finish with my recommendation on IF you should weight train, HOW you should incorporate it into your routine (if you decide to), and some tips related to climbing and weight training.
Let’s start with the reasons against weight training as a rock climber
***FIND ALL THE NOTES FOR THIS VIDEO AT:
hoopersbeta.com/library/weight-training-and-rock-climbing
// Attributions //
Tired businessman: "vecteezy.com/free-vector/tired" Tired Vectors by Vecteezy
Accomplished businessman: "vecteezy.com/free-vector/abstract" Abstract Vectors by Vecteezy
#rockclimbing #physicaltherapist #weighttraining
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// Timestamps //
Overview and Context (00:00)
Reason #1 AGAINST (01:09)
Reason #2 AGAINST (03:14)
Reason #3 AGAINST (04:42)
Reasons Against Summary (06:17)
Reason #1 FOR (06:37)
Reason #2 FOR (08:49)
Reason #3 FOR (10:48)
Reasons For Summary (12:04)
My Recommendations for Climbers (12:20)
Outro and Bloopers (13:36)
// Support the channel by shopping with these links (we're not sponsored by these companies) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
Should climbers weight train? Will it make you better at climbing? Or will you just gain mass and feel all heavy? Will it make you more prone to overuse injuries? Or will the added strength help prevent you from getting injured? Shouldn’t you be spending your time climbing and not lifting weights? But then how are you going to get stronger?
Just like running, this is a hotly debated and often misunderstood topic in the climbing community. So in this video, we’re going to present the top 3 reasons FOR and AGAINST resistance training for climbers. And we’re going to base those reasons on WHAT? Science!
After this video you’ll have all the info you need to decide for yourself whether or not weight training is appropriate for you.
Be sure to stay tuned until the end as I’ll finish with my recommendation on IF you should weight train, HOW you should incorporate it into your routine (if you decide to), and some tips related to climbing and weight training.
Let’s start with the reasons against weight training as a rock climber
***FIND ALL THE NOTES FOR THIS VIDEO AT:
hoopersbeta.com/library/weight-training-and-rock-climbing
// Attributions //
Tired businessman: "vecteezy.com/free-vector/tired" Tired Vectors by Vecteezy
Accomplished businessman: "vecteezy.com/free-vector/abstract" Abstract Vectors by Vecteezy
#rockclimbing #physicaltherapist #weighttraining
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166

![Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)
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// FULL LENGTH VIDS REFERENCED IN THIS VIDEO //
Before You Start Hangboarding: https://youtu.be/luL6LN5ALdo
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Hip Mobility Yoga Routine: https://youtu.be/VZ7PuJR_e6Y
Lumbricals: https://youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU
Lower Traps: https://youtu.be/ 2_1hOfL00
Hamstring Injuries and Strengthening: https://youtu.be/wmeas5-mrFw
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Why This Matters
00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds
01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength
01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain
02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds
03:16 #6: Heel hook strength and safety
03:56 #5: For better body tension and control
04:53 #4: For strong healthy shoulders
05:37 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks
06:33 #2: For ripping holds off the wall
07:22 #1: For climbing better
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 119
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/top-10-undertrained-muscles-in-rock-climbers-niche-to-game-changing
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Flexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0
Glutes: Original by sv:Användare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0
Quadriceps: The original uploader was יוסי הראשון at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YVhsG_mk6LQ/mqdefault.jpg)








