Uploaded March 2021 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Trapezius Muscles: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
// CREATORS & PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Trapezius Muscles: Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
// CREATORS & PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
![Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
// FULL LENGTH VIDS REFERENCED IN THIS VIDEO //
Before You Start Hangboarding: https://youtu.be/luL6LN5ALdo
Hip Mobility: https://youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4
Hip Mobility Yoga Routine: https://youtu.be/VZ7PuJR_e6Y
Lumbricals: https://youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU
Lower Traps: https://youtu.be/ 2_1hOfL00
Hamstring Injuries and Strengthening: https://youtu.be/wmeas5-mrFw
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code Hooper10
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Why This Matters
00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds
01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength
01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain
02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds
03:16 #6: Heel hook strength and safety
03:56 #5: For better body tension and control
04:53 #4: For strong healthy shoulders
05:37 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks
06:33 #2: For ripping holds off the wall
07:22 #1: For climbing better
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 119
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/top-10-undertrained-muscles-in-rock-climbers-niche-to-game-changing
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Flexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0
Glutes: Original by sv:Användare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0
Quadriceps: The original uploader was יוסי הראשון at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YVhsG_mk6LQ/mqdefault.jpg)









