Uploaded June 2025 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
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Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

![Rice Buckets are a GREAT Tool for Climbers (Climbing Myth?)
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Rice Bucketz Infomercial
01:00 Context and Questionnaire
02:07 The Research
02:35 For Warming Up and Prehab
04:35 For Rehab
07:07 For Strength Training
08:21 The Final Word
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 105
INTRODUCTION
Rice bucket exercises are commonly used by athletes and occupational therapists for working the hand, wrist, and forearm tissues, so it seems like a relevant tool for climbers. Despite that, I’ve never personally recommended them to any of my patients. (And no, it’s not just because I don’t like having a big bucket of rice lying around.) But before I explain my reasoning and the pros and cons of rice bucket exercises, I wanted to find out what you all actually think about it. We took a poll and here’s what you said:
12 people use it for warming up
10 people use it for rehab
9 people say it’s a waste of food
7 people think there are better alternative exercises
6 do it just because it feels good
5 say it’s too inconvenient
5 say they had no idea this was a real thing
5 say you can’t progress with it or it’s not specific or objective enough
4 people think it’s good for antagonist training
1 does it purely out of desperation (RIP)
And there were of course many other gems sprinkled in the mix. [Amanda Lee: “My mom will kill me.”]
With such a wide range of opinions, we clearly need to do some investigating to uncover the truth about these exercises. Also, am I just an ignorant noob who’s been missing out on a great rehab tool this whole time? Maybe, but let’s find out!
THE RESEARCH
Anyway, as always, we’ll first look at the research for answers. Or at least, we would, if there was any. Unfortunately searches for rice bucket research and the more general “fluidotherapy” leave us empty-handed. While this is not an immediate declaration of failure for me, it is significant, because research is what helps guide our decision-making on this channel. Instead, we’ll have to rely on our knowledge of biomechanics, some expert opinion, and research in other relevant fields to help us make an assessment.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/rice-buckets-and-rock-climbing-climbing-myths
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Muscles: CFCF, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Hand: Atlas dantomie Humaine et de Chirurgie by Jean Marc Bourgery (1797-1849) Los Angeles: Taschen, 2005. Atlas Case QM 25 .B67 2005
Nervous system: ¤~Persian Poet Gal, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
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#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapist Rice Buckets are a GREAT Tool for Climbers (Climbing Myth?)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Pzzt0XK39SY/mqdefault.jpg)








