Uploaded August 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Nerve entrapment syndromes of the elbow, forearm, and wrist: bit.ly/3bRCi7U
- Ulnar Nerve Anatomy: bit.ly/3dtzuyC
- Treatment for ulnar neuropathy at the elbow: bit.ly/3pgg1DV
- The validity of upper-limb neurodynamic tests for detecting peripheral neuropathic pain: bit.ly/3bQlu1e
- Cubital Tunnel Syndrome: Current Concepts: bit.ly/3pggbLx
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Misdiagnosed as golfer's elbow / elbow tendonitis
00:28 Ulnar nerve issues cause "phantom" pains
01:09 What's really going on
03:55 See if this affects you
05:39 Are you putting yourself at risk?
07:23 How to permanently get rid of this problem
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 112
hoopersbeta.com/library/why-rock-climbers-get-phantom-elbow-pain-ulnar-nerve
If you have nagging or mysterious pain on the inside of your elbow it might be ulnar nerve pain rather than tendonitis! The ulnar nerve can become irritated if it gets entrapped at one of several entrapment sites along its path. Even though the entrapment or pinching can happen in the neck, shoulder/chest, or forearm, the pain usually occurs at the elbow because that is where the nerve sees the most compression during climbing movements.
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #ulnarnerve #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Nerve entrapment syndromes of the elbow, forearm, and wrist: bit.ly/3bRCi7U
- Ulnar Nerve Anatomy: bit.ly/3dtzuyC
- Treatment for ulnar neuropathy at the elbow: bit.ly/3pgg1DV
- The validity of upper-limb neurodynamic tests for detecting peripheral neuropathic pain: bit.ly/3bQlu1e
- Cubital Tunnel Syndrome: Current Concepts: bit.ly/3pggbLx
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Misdiagnosed as golfer's elbow / elbow tendonitis
00:28 Ulnar nerve issues cause "phantom" pains
01:09 What's really going on
03:55 See if this affects you
05:39 Are you putting yourself at risk?
07:23 How to permanently get rid of this problem
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 112
hoopersbeta.com/library/why-rock-climbers-get-phantom-elbow-pain-ulnar-nerve
If you have nagging or mysterious pain on the inside of your elbow it might be ulnar nerve pain rather than tendonitis! The ulnar nerve can become irritated if it gets entrapped at one of several entrapment sites along its path. Even though the entrapment or pinching can happen in the neck, shoulder/chest, or forearm, the pain usually occurs at the elbow because that is where the nerve sees the most compression during climbing movements.
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #ulnarnerve #doctorofphysicaltherapy





![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Is this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka mixed hangs. Theyre so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they dont require any weights or additional equipment!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPERS BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code hoopers: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Overview
00:31 Part 1: Advantages
02:44 Part 2: Getting Started
03:43 How do I know what holds to use?
05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level
06:36 Part 3: Progressing
06:52 Progression Step 1
07:48 Progression Step 2
08:20 Progression Step 3
09:16 Part 4: Recommendations
09:25 Improving Efficiency
10:06 Frequency
10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning
11:23 Getting Unstuck
12:21 Remember the Premise
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 132
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields-fingers-of-steel-w/-no-weights
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/LpAxwEo7iXA/mqdefault.jpg)




