Uploaded July 2025 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
10% OFF any Frictitious portable board with code "Frictitious10": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️Gyms:
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- $10 off PitchSix Force Board: pitchsix.com/discount/hoopersbeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:21 Why everyone should do this routine
00:57 How do decide which level is right for you
01:22 Level 1: getting acquainted
03:31 Level 2: gaining specificity
05:30 Level 3: maximizing progressability
06:55 What about hangboarding?
07:06 Neat anatomy “hack” to reduce lumbrical strain
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 155
hoopersbeta.com/library/pocket-training-lumbricals
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
10% OFF any Frictitious portable board with code "Frictitious10": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️Gyms:
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- $10 off PitchSix Force Board: pitchsix.com/discount/hoopersbeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:21 Why everyone should do this routine
00:57 How do decide which level is right for you
01:22 Level 1: getting acquainted
03:31 Level 2: gaining specificity
05:30 Level 3: maximizing progressability
06:55 What about hangboarding?
07:06 Neat anatomy “hack” to reduce lumbrical strain
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 155
hoopersbeta.com/library/pocket-training-lumbricals
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/LpAxwEo7iXA/mqdefault.jpg "How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Is this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka mixed hangs. Theyre so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they dont require any weights or additional equipment!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPERS BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code hoopers: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses https://bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or https://testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Overview
00:31 Part 1: Advantages
02:44 Part 2: Getting Started
03:43 How do I know what holds to use?
05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level
06:36 Part 3: Progressing
06:52 Progression Step 1
07:48 Progression Step 2
08:20 Progression Step 3
09:16 Part 4: Recommendations
09:25 Improving Efficiency
10:06 Frequency
10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning
11:23 Getting Unstuck
12:21 Remember the Premise
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 132
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields-fingers-of-steel-w/-no-weights
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy")
