Uploaded December 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
I have a couple more of these using the schmitt trigger oscillator running at around 3Mhz and those seemed like they were less picky about shielding and tuning. This circuit didn't want to give me a consistent and reliable frequency tune until I did all the shielding. It's actually tuned closer to 4.3Mhz but I'm able to get away with running a little over 4.5Mhz at 50V without much problems by cheating a little with higher coupling. I had the best results with a build using a CD4046 for the VCO at 2.8Mhz and a UCC27322. I still need to try using the schmitt trigger as the BG oscillator with a separate input taking some kind of feedback.
The IXDD630 is pretty amazing so I figure for the effort it would take to create multiple stages of amplification to build a 4-5Mhz resonant drive using discrete switches I might as well use a 10 dollar gate driver. I've already seen a little over 5Mhz plasma doesn't really look so much different from maybe 3Mhz, so if I can tune for 7Mhz and don't see any difference I might as well go back down to about 4Mhz and go higher power. This is supplying the driver with only about 12.5VDC though I did have it closer to 15V in the video and didn't even notice.
Normally I seem to tune these to run at around 45V max which places the drain swing at around 180-200V on a 200V fet. With this one it really needs more like 100VDC so it will eventually have to run if off the variac.
I have a couple more of these using the schmitt trigger oscillator running at around 3Mhz and those seemed like they were less picky about shielding and tuning. This circuit didn't want to give me a consistent and reliable frequency tune until I did all the shielding. It's actually tuned closer to 4.3Mhz but I'm able to get away with running a little over 4.5Mhz at 50V without much problems by cheating a little with higher coupling. I had the best results with a build using a CD4046 for the VCO at 2.8Mhz and a UCC27322. I still need to try using the schmitt trigger as the BG oscillator with a separate input taking some kind of feedback.
The IXDD630 is pretty amazing so I figure for the effort it would take to create multiple stages of amplification to build a 4-5Mhz resonant drive using discrete switches I might as well use a 10 dollar gate driver. I've already seen a little over 5Mhz plasma doesn't really look so much different from maybe 3Mhz, so if I can tune for 7Mhz and don't see any difference I might as well go back down to about 4Mhz and go higher power. This is supplying the driver with only about 12.5VDC though I did have it closer to 15V in the video and didn't even notice.
Normally I seem to tune these to run at around 45V max which places the drain swing at around 180-200V on a 200V fet. With this one it really needs more like 100VDC so it will eventually have to run if off the variac.








![RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how Im doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so Im not really concerned with that since Im using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver youre using on the car. Since youre mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I havent tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess its one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You dont want to be in a position where youre looking at a clear image of your far away car you cant control anymore, but you also dont need a mile of theoretical control range if youre just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one best solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesnt want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hL6XY024JPo/mqdefault.jpg)

