Uploaded January 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
As expected this decent sized 1:1:1 GDT "works" but the circuit needs a good ferrite low leakage transformer for the best performance. Right now it starts to sag too low below 24V when loaded at 8-10W but is acceptable at 5W. It'll be good for more than 10W when I put the right small ferrite transformer in it. I'm hoping to hit about 85-90%. I don't want to just wind one though, and would rather source something I can finalize a circuit with to make more of. After that I will spend time on the output stage trying to filter it as best as I can to reduce the ripple (really just switching noise). IRF540's are not exactly modern switches but meh. To really push efficiency one would need low gate charge and output capacitance fets (sic/gan), of course a very clean board, and the good transformer. 90% then becomes a reasonable baseline whereas even 85% may be difficult using these parts.
TL494 Push-Pull common emitter, collectors pulled to 5v
74HC14 to invert signals
UCC27524 push-pull fed
IRF540's
~90khz ( I could drop this for better performance but..)
The TL494 is not exactly cutting edge technology either but it's a handy chip and it's always good to be able to set some dead time to avoid shoot through. Otherwise I suppose you could use any oscillator that will give you a 50% duty cycle and then try to RC delay the Schmitt trigger to attempt dead time. (I should add that you may not want to run a high duty cycle with a super tiny transformer unless you plan to run lower voltage into the primary). I'm kind of just using a bunch of these thruhole IC's I had for a while but man, all SMD would make everything about it pretty tiny.
As expected this decent sized 1:1:1 GDT "works" but the circuit needs a good ferrite low leakage transformer for the best performance. Right now it starts to sag too low below 24V when loaded at 8-10W but is acceptable at 5W. It'll be good for more than 10W when I put the right small ferrite transformer in it. I'm hoping to hit about 85-90%. I don't want to just wind one though, and would rather source something I can finalize a circuit with to make more of. After that I will spend time on the output stage trying to filter it as best as I can to reduce the ripple (really just switching noise). IRF540's are not exactly modern switches but meh. To really push efficiency one would need low gate charge and output capacitance fets (sic/gan), of course a very clean board, and the good transformer. 90% then becomes a reasonable baseline whereas even 85% may be difficult using these parts.
TL494 Push-Pull common emitter, collectors pulled to 5v
74HC14 to invert signals
UCC27524 push-pull fed
IRF540's
~90khz ( I could drop this for better performance but..)
The TL494 is not exactly cutting edge technology either but it's a handy chip and it's always good to be able to set some dead time to avoid shoot through. Otherwise I suppose you could use any oscillator that will give you a 50% duty cycle and then try to RC delay the Schmitt trigger to attempt dead time. (I should add that you may not want to run a high duty cycle with a super tiny transformer unless you plan to run lower voltage into the primary). I'm kind of just using a bunch of these thruhole IC's I had for a while but man, all SMD would make everything about it pretty tiny.





![RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how Im doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so Im not really concerned with that since Im using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver youre using on the car. Since youre mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I havent tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess its one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You dont want to be in a position where youre looking at a clear image of your far away car you cant control anymore, but you also dont need a mile of theoretical control range if youre just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one best solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesnt want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hL6XY024JPo/mqdefault.jpg)




