Uploaded March 2024 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
This is just an example of landscape vs bitrate with ground level O3 + V2's where the landscape is a business lot next to apartment complexes.
V2's are using TrueRC patches and stubbies. O3 is using a FlyFish RC long antenna made for the O3.
Went about expected for this area. I get horrible analog signal out there. I'm parked with my back against a building which is not ideal and don't have LOS most of the time but that's about typical for anywhere that isn't a big open space. There honestly isn't a whole lot I can do in an area like this and the average reasonable range stays around 250-300 meters. In this case going behind me a little under 200 meters causes me to lose video for a second around the building I have my back against. I probably wouldn't have lost video if my receiver wasn't so close to the building. While I could park just right in a different type of location and have way better range, this is about what I can expect just being in some random location that isn't in the middle of nowhere. It's also of course better when I'm not sitting inside the car.
If you study enough videos of O3 footage showing the bitrate then you can sort of get an idea what to expect given certain layouts and obstructions. You can see that even on the ground you don't really start to lose signal at the first loss of LOS like you might with analog. Small objects like bushes or trees or even walls don't really drop the signal until enough of them stack up. When it comes to the patches, if let's say at any given time I'm driving to my right or left, I can turn my head and expect to see somewhere between a 5-10Mbps increase on average. Another thing you can notice is that a lot of times the signal is not the same heading away vs heading back toward me. Even with the antenna not being directly blocked by anything on the truck that will happen, so increasing the height and giving it even more head room would probably fix that.
It's a pain that takes forever to render videos with the subtitles file included when using the V2 goggles so I doubt I'll do that again. It basically had to create over 7000 segments, 1 for every frame. Starts gorilla pounding my CPU like it fumbled the banana heist.
This is just an example of landscape vs bitrate with ground level O3 + V2's where the landscape is a business lot next to apartment complexes.
V2's are using TrueRC patches and stubbies. O3 is using a FlyFish RC long antenna made for the O3.
Went about expected for this area. I get horrible analog signal out there. I'm parked with my back against a building which is not ideal and don't have LOS most of the time but that's about typical for anywhere that isn't a big open space. There honestly isn't a whole lot I can do in an area like this and the average reasonable range stays around 250-300 meters. In this case going behind me a little under 200 meters causes me to lose video for a second around the building I have my back against. I probably wouldn't have lost video if my receiver wasn't so close to the building. While I could park just right in a different type of location and have way better range, this is about what I can expect just being in some random location that isn't in the middle of nowhere. It's also of course better when I'm not sitting inside the car.
If you study enough videos of O3 footage showing the bitrate then you can sort of get an idea what to expect given certain layouts and obstructions. You can see that even on the ground you don't really start to lose signal at the first loss of LOS like you might with analog. Small objects like bushes or trees or even walls don't really drop the signal until enough of them stack up. When it comes to the patches, if let's say at any given time I'm driving to my right or left, I can turn my head and expect to see somewhere between a 5-10Mbps increase on average. Another thing you can notice is that a lot of times the signal is not the same heading away vs heading back toward me. Even with the antenna not being directly blocked by anything on the truck that will happen, so increasing the height and giving it even more head room would probably fix that.
It's a pain that takes forever to render videos with the subtitles file included when using the V2 goggles so I doubt I'll do that again. It basically had to create over 7000 segments, 1 for every frame. Starts gorilla pounding my CPU like it fumbled the banana heist.



![RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how Im doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so Im not really concerned with that since Im using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver youre using on the car. Since youre mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I havent tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess its one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You dont want to be in a position where youre looking at a clear image of your far away car you cant control anymore, but you also dont need a mile of theoretical control range if youre just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one best solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesnt want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hL6XY024JPo/mqdefault.jpg)






