Uploaded June 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
I'm testing a RUSH Tank MAX Solo VTX and I like it mainly because it has this tiny fan that somehow keeps it from getting hot. Out of basically all the higher powered 5.8g VTX's I like this one the best. It comes with a dedicated audio input I ran an electret board to and it will also automatically start at low power without using a FC. That keeps me from accidentally blasting too much power just going around my living room. I prefer this over something with Smart Audio or even a built in mic because the gain is just too low on those and meant for things with props. As usual it sounds too loud in the DVR recording but sounds great to me from headphones. The VTX uses an MMCX connector so I had to put an adapter on it to use the Double AXII 2 antenna. The receiver I'm using is not ideal and largely part of why I'm getting so much noise, but the noise is also what I've been trying to figure out ever since I started messing with this. Something was just never quite right and I still don't know what it is. Even my Crossfire control on 3 different receivers has a really hard time in a lot of little 'pockets' around my area. I tried some band pass filters and found one which did work a little bit but I could only find the one, and the receiver uses two antennas.
I replaced a bad relay and added a buttload of filtering on the RC car portion which uses its own battery, and then a little bit on the VTX portion which uses its own battery. The cam is also supplied from the 5v VTX output which is recommended if you can use it. I don't really need the range of Crossfire but I decided to use it on this car because it gives me less interference than my 2.4g control did on the channels I was trying to use. The remaining noise in let's say the places I don't think it should exist can sometimes be from the Crossfire TX changing its dynamic power output briefly before settling back down again. IDK what all that other stuff is. If I drive around inside a fairly large commercial building I don't seem to get as much noise... could still just be all the wifi. I'm always in my living room with these tests so close range it's always having to penetrate sub floor and probably walls, but with decent LOS this setup will go pretty far.
There comes a sharp point in the pipe where the video gets too bad and I would guess this is less due to the 5.8g VTX+VRX being incapable of the penetration, and more due to the Crossfire TX changing its dynamic output to 500mW or higher. When Crossfire starts outputting that much power it can basically step all over nearby systems. I see it in the 1.3g and the 5.8g. Nothing is really going to filter that out so you'd have to basically keep them separated by some tens of feet probably. In this regard, I would say the Crossfire diversity receiver is going to be the better choice all around for long range or high penetration traveling. It should not need to use so much high power as often.
I'm testing a RUSH Tank MAX Solo VTX and I like it mainly because it has this tiny fan that somehow keeps it from getting hot. Out of basically all the higher powered 5.8g VTX's I like this one the best. It comes with a dedicated audio input I ran an electret board to and it will also automatically start at low power without using a FC. That keeps me from accidentally blasting too much power just going around my living room. I prefer this over something with Smart Audio or even a built in mic because the gain is just too low on those and meant for things with props. As usual it sounds too loud in the DVR recording but sounds great to me from headphones. The VTX uses an MMCX connector so I had to put an adapter on it to use the Double AXII 2 antenna. The receiver I'm using is not ideal and largely part of why I'm getting so much noise, but the noise is also what I've been trying to figure out ever since I started messing with this. Something was just never quite right and I still don't know what it is. Even my Crossfire control on 3 different receivers has a really hard time in a lot of little 'pockets' around my area. I tried some band pass filters and found one which did work a little bit but I could only find the one, and the receiver uses two antennas.
I replaced a bad relay and added a buttload of filtering on the RC car portion which uses its own battery, and then a little bit on the VTX portion which uses its own battery. The cam is also supplied from the 5v VTX output which is recommended if you can use it. I don't really need the range of Crossfire but I decided to use it on this car because it gives me less interference than my 2.4g control did on the channels I was trying to use. The remaining noise in let's say the places I don't think it should exist can sometimes be from the Crossfire TX changing its dynamic power output briefly before settling back down again. IDK what all that other stuff is. If I drive around inside a fairly large commercial building I don't seem to get as much noise... could still just be all the wifi. I'm always in my living room with these tests so close range it's always having to penetrate sub floor and probably walls, but with decent LOS this setup will go pretty far.
There comes a sharp point in the pipe where the video gets too bad and I would guess this is less due to the 5.8g VTX+VRX being incapable of the penetration, and more due to the Crossfire TX changing its dynamic output to 500mW or higher. When Crossfire starts outputting that much power it can basically step all over nearby systems. I see it in the 1.3g and the 5.8g. Nothing is really going to filter that out so you'd have to basically keep them separated by some tens of feet probably. In this regard, I would say the Crossfire diversity receiver is going to be the better choice all around for long range or high penetration traveling. It should not need to use so much high power as often.

![RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how Im doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so Im not really concerned with that since Im using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver youre using on the car. Since youre mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I havent tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess its one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You dont want to be in a position where youre looking at a clear image of your far away car you cant control anymore, but you also dont need a mile of theoretical control range if youre just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one best solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesnt want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s RC Ground FPV How-To (Analog + DJI O3)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hL6XY024JPo/mqdefault.jpg)








