Uploaded January 2024 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how I'm doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so I'm not really concerned with that since I'm using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver you're using on the car. Since you're mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I haven't tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess it's one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You don't want to be in a position where you're looking at a clear image of your far away car you can't control anymore, but you also don't need a mile of theoretical control range if you're just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one "best" solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesn't want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s
I might have covered some of this in less detail in other videos but here is a long compilation of how I'm doing FPV with these various cars. Control protocols are a whole different video so I'm not really concerned with that since I'm using PPM and TBS Crossfire. Whatever protocol you use you just need to make sure that your controller is compatible with the receiver you're using on the car. Since you're mixing different frequencies on the same car for both video and control, you want to make sure none of these frequencies are stepping on each other (harmonics of a lower freq which can interfere with the tx of a higher freq). This is what my notch filters are for since I use 915Mhz control combined with transmitters on 1280Mhz.
[VTX/VRX Popular Frequency Options]
- 1.2Ghz - If this does not work decently for you using the cheapest 800mW options I would not invest in it further. You may have the most luck using 433Mhz control but if 2.4Ghz or 1.2Ghz control and proper filters do not provide decent results it might not be something to pursue any further for various possible reasons.
- 2.4Ghz - I haven't tried this but theoretically it should be better than 5.8Ghz. 1.2Ghz and 2.4Ghz would always be the route I would try first.. but if those do not work out then 5.8Ghz might just do it for you. Video options for 2.4Ghz are probably going to be few.
- 5.8Ghz - This is typically going to give decent results for a lot of people since 5.8Ghz is so widely supported and offers so many high power transmitters and good receivers.
[Popular Control Frequencies]
- 433Mhz - Never tried it but I would guess it's one of the best options. Not a lot out there anymore I know of aside from MFDLink.
- 915Mhz - This is what I use with Crossfire and seems to work very well. Not the cause of my 1.2Ghz video issues.
- 2.4Ghz - Maybe most common and probably fine for most people. A good 2.4Ghz controller can go hundreds of meters easily. I would only try to improve this if I can tell my control range is dying before my video range. You don't want to be in a position where you're looking at a clear image of your far away car you can't control anymore, but you also don't need a mile of theoretical control range if you're just hitting parking lots or fields.
There are tons of other things that can be done with ground stuff including the use of various telemetry but I would recommend keeping it as simple as possible for a first build. Is there one "best" solution for all? Not really. Analog can have extremely low latency with the right equipment which makes it very useful if you want to FPV drones. This is typically why you may not see a lot of people using both DJI and analog rigs with goggles. DJI doesn't want to play well with anything but proprietary stuff, and analog goggles can be expensive. Some people prefer to just get good goggles for both HD and analog and go with a different platform aside from the DJI Air Units.
See Chad Rains for a good video on long range tips - youtube.com/watch?v=mKvI3Gj3E9s
