Uploaded December 2021 | Updated September 2026, 1 hour ago
Coach Hörst discusses the value of Auto-Regulation in striving to train and climb more effectively. Eric also answers viewer questions on how to break through a "5.11+ plateau", training while on a business trip, training to drop weight, tapering ahead of a weekend climbing outing, max hangboard training during an endurance phase, the value of bodyweight training exercises, and more!
Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
0:45 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!
1:00 - Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee
1:50 - SHOUT-OUT to Zach Galla on his recent string of V15/V16 ascents!
2:25 - Introduction to Main Topic: AUTO-REGULATION - When to Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not to!
4:00 - Use of Auto-Regulation with a gym climbing or training session.
16:24 - Applying Auto-Regulation at the boulders and crags...to invest your energy wisely and increase your chance of sending your project.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
27:00 - How to best continue training while on a trip away from climbing (Florida)?
29:10 - Is it okay to do a strength training phase right before a period of performance?
32:40 - Are you a fan of the Moonboard?
34:10 - How can I best do a mini-taper before a weekend of climbing?
37:35 - In trying to progress from 5.11 to 5.12, can I begin doing some hangboard training in addition to climbing 3 days per week?
40:40 - How can I train around (and heal) an A1 pulley injury in my hand?
43:23 - How long can a period of performance climbing last before losing significant strength or fitness?
46:16 - Do you use a SmartWatch to collect data?
48:40 - My recent training has resulted in a 10lb weight gain...and I'm wondering if I must cut weight to climb my best?
52:02 - I'm 54 years old and climb 7a/+ (5.12a)...how can I improve my climbing level further?
54:40 - Follow-up on wrist extensor injury...
56:30 - I'm currently about 10kg/22lbs overweight and climb 7a/5.11+. How can I best lose some weight and improve towards my goal of climbing 8a/13b?
1:01:20 - What are your thoughts on body-weight training exercises?
1:03:40 - Can I do a little hangboard strength training during an Endurance training phase?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Coach Hörst discusses the value of Auto-Regulation in striving to train and climb more effectively. Eric also answers viewer questions on how to break through a "5.11+ plateau", training while on a business trip, training to drop weight, tapering ahead of a weekend climbing outing, max hangboard training during an endurance phase, the value of bodyweight training exercises, and more!
Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
0:45 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!
1:00 - Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee
1:50 - SHOUT-OUT to Zach Galla on his recent string of V15/V16 ascents!
2:25 - Introduction to Main Topic: AUTO-REGULATION - When to Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not to!
4:00 - Use of Auto-Regulation with a gym climbing or training session.
16:24 - Applying Auto-Regulation at the boulders and crags...to invest your energy wisely and increase your chance of sending your project.
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
27:00 - How to best continue training while on a trip away from climbing (Florida)?
29:10 - Is it okay to do a strength training phase right before a period of performance?
32:40 - Are you a fan of the Moonboard?
34:10 - How can I best do a mini-taper before a weekend of climbing?
37:35 - In trying to progress from 5.11 to 5.12, can I begin doing some hangboard training in addition to climbing 3 days per week?
40:40 - How can I train around (and heal) an A1 pulley injury in my hand?
43:23 - How long can a period of performance climbing last before losing significant strength or fitness?
46:16 - Do you use a SmartWatch to collect data?
48:40 - My recent training has resulted in a 10lb weight gain...and I'm wondering if I must cut weight to climb my best?
52:02 - I'm 54 years old and climb 7a/+ (5.12a)...how can I improve my climbing level further?
54:40 - Follow-up on wrist extensor injury...
56:30 - I'm currently about 10kg/22lbs overweight and climb 7a/5.11+. How can I best lose some weight and improve towards my goal of climbing 8a/13b?
1:01:20 - What are your thoughts on body-weight training exercises?
1:03:40 - Can I do a little hangboard strength training during an Endurance training phase?
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
