Uploaded June 2021 | Updated September 2026, 1 hour ago
Traveling to climb somewhere new this season? Listen in for tips to support your performance. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
00:30 – Reporting to you from the road - with coffee!
1:20 – Some background on Rifle, CO climbing area
2:20 – MAIN TOPIC: It can be challenging to adjust to a new rock type. Learn how to adjust your climbing at a new area.
3:08 – Travel exposes all kinds of new challenges for your climbing
5:30 – If you're in the position to, travel to new areas to climb!
6:20 – When you get to an area, don't just pick a project and get to work - experience all of the grades and warm up to the area!
8:00 – Acclimate to any changes in elevation
9:15 – If you treat your body right at higher elevation, it will adjust more quickly! (Red blood cells will increase faster)
11:30 – Treat your body right and allow the first few days to adjust to the rock and environment
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
12:30 – I two-hung my project at Smith Rock yesterday. Any advice on a strategy to now send it quickly?
14:30 – Any routes in Boulder Canyon (in the 5.12-5.13 range) that you'd recommend?
15:35 – Just had my first post-covid climbing trip to Frankenjura and I struggled a lot on the steep terrain. What's the best training for power endurance on a 90-degree homewall?
20:30 – What's the best fingerboard training (7x3 repeater protocol or 7x53 max-strength protocol) to do once a week in climbing season?
23:05 – On the climbing nugget podcast, you speak loudly about the importance of core training. Could you go deeper on that in the future?
28:50 – One last sip of coffee - until next time!
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
Traveling to climb somewhere new this season? Listen in for tips to support your performance. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
00:30 – Reporting to you from the road - with coffee!
1:20 – Some background on Rifle, CO climbing area
2:20 – MAIN TOPIC: It can be challenging to adjust to a new rock type. Learn how to adjust your climbing at a new area.
3:08 – Travel exposes all kinds of new challenges for your climbing
5:30 – If you're in the position to, travel to new areas to climb!
6:20 – When you get to an area, don't just pick a project and get to work - experience all of the grades and warm up to the area!
8:00 – Acclimate to any changes in elevation
9:15 – If you treat your body right at higher elevation, it will adjust more quickly! (Red blood cells will increase faster)
11:30 – Treat your body right and allow the first few days to adjust to the rock and environment
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
12:30 – I two-hung my project at Smith Rock yesterday. Any advice on a strategy to now send it quickly?
14:30 – Any routes in Boulder Canyon (in the 5.12-5.13 range) that you'd recommend?
15:35 – Just had my first post-covid climbing trip to Frankenjura and I struggled a lot on the steep terrain. What's the best training for power endurance on a 90-degree homewall?
20:30 – What's the best fingerboard training (7x3 repeater protocol or 7x53 max-strength protocol) to do once a week in climbing season?
23:05 – On the climbing nugget podcast, you speak loudly about the importance of core training. Could you go deeper on that in the future?
28:50 – One last sip of coffee - until next time!
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
