Uploaded March 2021 | Updated September 2026, 8 hours ago
When it comes to effective training, the shiny new object isn't always the answer...but rather getting back to the handful of proven exercises that offer 80% (or more) of the benefits you can reap from your climbing workouts.
RUNDOWN:
00:40 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:25 – Today's topic: getting back to basics with your training
2:30 – Training in the 80's - it was basic!
3:30 – New-age training technology
4:50 – 80% of your gains come from about 20% of the exercise and activities available to you.
8:00 – Accurately assess your strengths and weaknesses and dedicate the bulk of your training to your weaknesses
9:40 – Some caveats
14:00 – Don't overdo rigorous training!
15:00 – Recognize your ritual and make necessary tweaks as you progress
17:00 – Take note of your workouts
18:30 – Becoming an effective self coach is critical
19:00 – Plan your workouts in advance
20:00 – The best training program for you is one you're not already doing! There's always room for improvement.
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
20:30 – How should I be training 3.5 weeks out from a trip to the Red River Gorge?
24:25 – At-home exercises for training lower body and stability?
28:00 – How long can you span a performance period outside before returning to a training phase? Can outdoor sessions substitute for strength training?
32:20 – Can you give us your long plank protocol?
35:00– Is your supercharged collagen affected if you put it in hot coffee?
37:22 – I've been minimally loading on my hangboard twice a day, with a mandatory 6 hours in between sets. Thoughts?
39:05 – How should a training week look for a V9 boulderer about to start a power endurance block?
44:10 – Any advice for climber's elbow that's persisted 4 weeks now?
46:00 – If you do a max weighted hangboard session one day, and plan to do some onsight training the following day (at 60-70% effort), will you hinder your gains from the previous day?
49:20 – How hard should I climbing during the 4-week skill and stamina period of the 4-3-2-1 plan? Can I still project hard routes?
56:20 – How much time, daily, does it take for you to write in your training diary and analyze it?
58:48 – How would you use "commercial" climbing gyms to prepare best for outdoors?
1:00:10 – Do you have plans to develop a Training 4 Climbing app?
1:01:05 – How to continue to train and stay injury-free with limited tools
1:02:25 – Do you ship your supercharged collagen to Serbia or Poland?
1:03:10 – Do 3-2-1 preferred to DUP or can DUP with variation go year-round?
1:03:35 – Should I be holding each position when I foot campus or keep moving?
1:04:43 – I injured my back climbing after getting a massage. Is there any connection here?
1:06:18 – I read about a 4-3-2-1 periodization in your book. How do you keep the endurance that you build in the first 4 weeks if you change focus for the next 6 weeks (before performance week).
1:07:50 – What training method is compatible with more outdoor days - periodization or non-linear?
1:10:45 – Would using a grip strengthener in an isometric way count as prehab for the elbows?
1:11:45 – What is a good time frame on a critical force test?
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
When it comes to effective training, the shiny new object isn't always the answer...but rather getting back to the handful of proven exercises that offer 80% (or more) of the benefits you can reap from your climbing workouts.
RUNDOWN:
00:40 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:25 – Today's topic: getting back to basics with your training
2:30 – Training in the 80's - it was basic!
3:30 – New-age training technology
4:50 – 80% of your gains come from about 20% of the exercise and activities available to you.
8:00 – Accurately assess your strengths and weaknesses and dedicate the bulk of your training to your weaknesses
9:40 – Some caveats
14:00 – Don't overdo rigorous training!
15:00 – Recognize your ritual and make necessary tweaks as you progress
17:00 – Take note of your workouts
18:30 – Becoming an effective self coach is critical
19:00 – Plan your workouts in advance
20:00 – The best training program for you is one you're not already doing! There's always room for improvement.
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
20:30 – How should I be training 3.5 weeks out from a trip to the Red River Gorge?
24:25 – At-home exercises for training lower body and stability?
28:00 – How long can you span a performance period outside before returning to a training phase? Can outdoor sessions substitute for strength training?
32:20 – Can you give us your long plank protocol?
35:00– Is your supercharged collagen affected if you put it in hot coffee?
37:22 – I've been minimally loading on my hangboard twice a day, with a mandatory 6 hours in between sets. Thoughts?
39:05 – How should a training week look for a V9 boulderer about to start a power endurance block?
44:10 – Any advice for climber's elbow that's persisted 4 weeks now?
46:00 – If you do a max weighted hangboard session one day, and plan to do some onsight training the following day (at 60-70% effort), will you hinder your gains from the previous day?
49:20 – How hard should I climbing during the 4-week skill and stamina period of the 4-3-2-1 plan? Can I still project hard routes?
56:20 – How much time, daily, does it take for you to write in your training diary and analyze it?
58:48 – How would you use "commercial" climbing gyms to prepare best for outdoors?
1:00:10 – Do you have plans to develop a Training 4 Climbing app?
1:01:05 – How to continue to train and stay injury-free with limited tools
1:02:25 – Do you ship your supercharged collagen to Serbia or Poland?
1:03:10 – Do 3-2-1 preferred to DUP or can DUP with variation go year-round?
1:03:35 – Should I be holding each position when I foot campus or keep moving?
1:04:43 – I injured my back climbing after getting a massage. Is there any connection here?
1:06:18 – I read about a 4-3-2-1 periodization in your book. How do you keep the endurance that you build in the first 4 weeks if you change focus for the next 6 weeks (before performance week).
1:07:50 – What training method is compatible with more outdoor days - periodization or non-linear?
1:10:45 – Would using a grip strengthener in an isometric way count as prehab for the elbows?
1:11:45 – What is a good time frame on a critical force test?
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
