Uploaded February 2021 | Updated September 2026, 27 minutes ago
Today's show will be a live training Q&A! Submit your questions ahead of time (in comments box) to get in the front of the line...or enter questions as the show goes live at Noon ET, 9:00am PT, 1700GMT. See you then--with coffee!
******* QUESTIONS ANSWERED! ***********
00:10 – Grab your coffee!
4:14 – First question: Can adaptations from training one arm (left/right) carry to the other? Are they neurological adaptations (motor learning, inhabitation), or also physiological (mitochondrial biogenesis/hypertrophy)?
6:18 – Roughly how many 5.12a-d routes should one have in a climbing pyramid before stepping up to 5.13?
10:17 – Good ways to improve sloper strength?
15:50 – What percent of bodyweight should I work up to deadlifting? Also, when is it OK to start max weight hangs?
19:13 – Get your PhysiVantage mug!
19:45 – What are some exercises that you believe should belong in every climber's core routine?
23:25 – Tips on routesetting for a homewall
27:30– Any thoughts on training "back 3" fingers on a hangboard?
29:30 – As a boulderer, is doing one aerobic session a week going to do anything for me?
32:35 – Would you recommend longer duration density hangs at any point of a minor pulley rehab? Or is that better to do when it's healthy?
38:31 – Theoretically, would recovery for an A1 injury be the same or similar to an A2 or other tendon injuries?
41:18– If I can't complete sets or hang times in a training session, should I do the hangs for shorter times or less pull-ups or reduce the weights immediately?
43:25 – What are your thoughts on one-arm hangboard training? How much training experience should one have before trying out this method?
46:50 – Should I take my collagen only on training days? Or a scoop every day?
49:23 – Any tips for maintaining muscle and avoiding injury while in a caloric deficit?
53:25 – What kinds of light activities might be acceptable and contribute to my climbing on a rest day?
56:00 – Thoughts on Nalle Hukkataival's 9A ascent in Finland
58:05 – What do you think of shock wave therapy?
1:00:38 – Are vertical jumps a predictor of performance?
1:01:47 – Does the rule "if it doesn't hurt while climbing, it's okay to climb" apply to all finger injuries?
1:06:15– How long should you wait to change a training program if you're not seeing improvement?
1:09:20 – Commentary on carb backloading and eating habits
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Today's show will be a live training Q&A! Submit your questions ahead of time (in comments box) to get in the front of the line...or enter questions as the show goes live at Noon ET, 9:00am PT, 1700GMT. See you then--with coffee!
******* QUESTIONS ANSWERED! ***********
00:10 – Grab your coffee!
4:14 – First question: Can adaptations from training one arm (left/right) carry to the other? Are they neurological adaptations (motor learning, inhabitation), or also physiological (mitochondrial biogenesis/hypertrophy)?
6:18 – Roughly how many 5.12a-d routes should one have in a climbing pyramid before stepping up to 5.13?
10:17 – Good ways to improve sloper strength?
15:50 – What percent of bodyweight should I work up to deadlifting? Also, when is it OK to start max weight hangs?
19:13 – Get your PhysiVantage mug!
19:45 – What are some exercises that you believe should belong in every climber's core routine?
23:25 – Tips on routesetting for a homewall
27:30– Any thoughts on training "back 3" fingers on a hangboard?
29:30 – As a boulderer, is doing one aerobic session a week going to do anything for me?
32:35 – Would you recommend longer duration density hangs at any point of a minor pulley rehab? Or is that better to do when it's healthy?
38:31 – Theoretically, would recovery for an A1 injury be the same or similar to an A2 or other tendon injuries?
41:18– If I can't complete sets or hang times in a training session, should I do the hangs for shorter times or less pull-ups or reduce the weights immediately?
43:25 – What are your thoughts on one-arm hangboard training? How much training experience should one have before trying out this method?
46:50 – Should I take my collagen only on training days? Or a scoop every day?
49:23 – Any tips for maintaining muscle and avoiding injury while in a caloric deficit?
53:25 – What kinds of light activities might be acceptable and contribute to my climbing on a rest day?
56:00 – Thoughts on Nalle Hukkataival's 9A ascent in Finland
58:05 – What do you think of shock wave therapy?
1:00:38 – Are vertical jumps a predictor of performance?
1:01:47 – Does the rule "if it doesn't hurt while climbing, it's okay to climb" apply to all finger injuries?
1:06:15– How long should you wait to change a training program if you're not seeing improvement?
1:09:20 – Commentary on carb backloading and eating habits
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
