Uploaded February 2021 | Updated September 2026, 5 hours ago
In today's LIVE episode, Eric will discuss training frequency and many variables that influence YOUR optimal number of training days per week. Plus, your questions...with coffee!
RUNDOWN:
00:20 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:30 – SHOUTOUT to Matt Fultz for his killer 24-hour spell in Red Rocks
2:50– Today's topic: How many days a week should you be training?
3:37 – The more you do it the better you get; you've got to put the time in!
5:40 – How many days to engage in intense physical training (including intense climbing days)
6:55 – Avoid too much intense training and too few rest days (can result in injury, degraded performance, poor results)
7:50 – Engage in minimum effective dose
8:30 – Minimum effective dose varies depending on climber
9:15– Variables affecting training schedule
10:30 – Don't overlook your recovery period! (nutrition and sleep habits)
14:30 - Meaning of training (climbing vs. non-climbing)
15:10 - 3-4 days a week is a good starting point
15:45 - Do something physical every day!
16:00 - Pushing / "prehab" exercises (do on non-climbing days!)
17:00 - Targeted training to break plateaus
19:30 - 3/4 days a week total of climbing-specific training for the "average climber"
21:50 - one COMPLETE rest day per week
24:45 - Expose yourself to new types of climbing
26:30 - Hangboarding and campus boarding can be game-changers!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
27:00 – Ganglian cyst treatment
32:00 – Opinion on fingerboard pull-ups
36:35 - Have you done any climbing in Georgia, Alabama, or Tennessee?
37:15 – Any tips for sharp elbow pain when releasing difficult holds with a bent arm? I've been climbing for about 7 years and have had this pain for about 1.5 years.
40:10– Can your recovery maintenance hangboard protocol with collagen be implemented with a max hangs protocol or is it too much?
45:55 – Am I training aerobic capacity doing moves on a 40-degree wall with my feet on the ground? When should I do this?
47:40 – Do you resole your climbing shoes or buy new?
49:12 – I plateaued doing max hangs for 2 months. How should I overcome this?
54:03 – What are some conducted studies that have been done on youth climbers and what have they shown?
55:55 – Here are a few articles on appropriate training for youth climbers
56:10 – Energy systems interference with aerobic vs. anaerobic core exercises
58:13 – I have a fingerboard, a bar, and some workout equipment, but no access to a climbing wall during the week. Can you help me with some exercises?
59:55 – For new climbers, is one of the best ways to train just to climb?
1:01:50 – What about yoga?
1:03:50 – Do you practice mindfulness?
1:05:40 – I have arthritis in my big toes. Any techniques to limber up the big toe mid-joint?
1:06:53 – How long does a Lumbrical muscle injury last? Any suggested treatments?
1:09:20 – Does fingerboarding with heavy weight cause impingement? Should training rungs be wider?
1:12:05 – What exercises would you recommend for a sub-scapular shoulder injury?
1:13:30 – See you all next time! (Get ahead of the game and type in your questions ahead of time to send them to the top of the list)
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
In today's LIVE episode, Eric will discuss training frequency and many variables that influence YOUR optimal number of training days per week. Plus, your questions...with coffee!
RUNDOWN:
00:20 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!
1:30 – SHOUTOUT to Matt Fultz for his killer 24-hour spell in Red Rocks
2:50– Today's topic: How many days a week should you be training?
3:37 – The more you do it the better you get; you've got to put the time in!
5:40 – How many days to engage in intense physical training (including intense climbing days)
6:55 – Avoid too much intense training and too few rest days (can result in injury, degraded performance, poor results)
7:50 – Engage in minimum effective dose
8:30 – Minimum effective dose varies depending on climber
9:15– Variables affecting training schedule
10:30 – Don't overlook your recovery period! (nutrition and sleep habits)
14:30 - Meaning of training (climbing vs. non-climbing)
15:10 - 3-4 days a week is a good starting point
15:45 - Do something physical every day!
16:00 - Pushing / "prehab" exercises (do on non-climbing days!)
17:00 - Targeted training to break plateaus
19:30 - 3/4 days a week total of climbing-specific training for the "average climber"
21:50 - one COMPLETE rest day per week
24:45 - Expose yourself to new types of climbing
26:30 - Hangboarding and campus boarding can be game-changers!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
27:00 – Ganglian cyst treatment
32:00 – Opinion on fingerboard pull-ups
36:35 - Have you done any climbing in Georgia, Alabama, or Tennessee?
37:15 – Any tips for sharp elbow pain when releasing difficult holds with a bent arm? I've been climbing for about 7 years and have had this pain for about 1.5 years.
40:10– Can your recovery maintenance hangboard protocol with collagen be implemented with a max hangs protocol or is it too much?
45:55 – Am I training aerobic capacity doing moves on a 40-degree wall with my feet on the ground? When should I do this?
47:40 – Do you resole your climbing shoes or buy new?
49:12 – I plateaued doing max hangs for 2 months. How should I overcome this?
54:03 – What are some conducted studies that have been done on youth climbers and what have they shown?
55:55 – Here are a few articles on appropriate training for youth climbers
56:10 – Energy systems interference with aerobic vs. anaerobic core exercises
58:13 – I have a fingerboard, a bar, and some workout equipment, but no access to a climbing wall during the week. Can you help me with some exercises?
59:55 – For new climbers, is one of the best ways to train just to climb?
1:01:50 – What about yoga?
1:03:50 – Do you practice mindfulness?
1:05:40 – I have arthritis in my big toes. Any techniques to limber up the big toe mid-joint?
1:06:53 – How long does a Lumbrical muscle injury last? Any suggested treatments?
1:09:20 – Does fingerboarding with heavy weight cause impingement? Should training rungs be wider?
1:12:05 – What exercises would you recommend for a sub-scapular shoulder injury?
1:13:30 – See you all next time! (Get ahead of the game and type in your questions ahead of time to send them to the top of the list)
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
