Uploaded July 2021 | Updated September 2026, 8 hours ago
Learn how to get more out of your training, reduce injury risk, and climb harder by way of an occasional deload week. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
00:30 – Reporting to you from Rifle, CO
1:05 – Let's commune with a sip of coffee!
2:15 – Shoutout to Sean Bailey for his gold medal, and Colin Duffey for his first podium. Also, congrats to Natalia Grossman on her bronze medal in lead!
3:45 – What benefits a deload week will bring to your training and progression. Does not apply to recreational climbers as much.
5:05 – Diminishing returns after several weeks of hard training
7:00 – Notice how your body feels and get a sense of fatigue. Perhaps create a benchmark workout to test your body's condition.
10:00 – When to take a deload week is highly personalized and depends on your body's current state
11:45 – A deload week can range from a few days to over a week, depending on your age, condition, and climbing goals.
14:30 – Schedule your climbing and training to fit the intensity of your "on" days
15:00 – Deload days can include light loading or other mild activity - but don't overdo it!
16:00 – Good nutrition can jumpstart recovery of connective tissues and your muscles
17:00 – In summary: deload periods are a week off from high-level training or climbing, but not necessarily complete rest
19:50 – Now, time for your questions!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
20:30 – Do you know the "smart hangboard" climbro?
24:50 – I'm injured and cannot climb for a few months. When it comes to finger training, should I just train max hangs for the months or switch between max hangs and repeaters?
33:30 – How do I activate my power more quickly? It usually takes me a few burns.
37:30 – Cutting it short but looking forward to the next training café!
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
Learn how to get more out of your training, reduce injury risk, and climb harder by way of an occasional deload week. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com
RUNDOWN:
00:30 – Reporting to you from Rifle, CO
1:05 – Let's commune with a sip of coffee!
2:15 – Shoutout to Sean Bailey for his gold medal, and Colin Duffey for his first podium. Also, congrats to Natalia Grossman on her bronze medal in lead!
3:45 – What benefits a deload week will bring to your training and progression. Does not apply to recreational climbers as much.
5:05 – Diminishing returns after several weeks of hard training
7:00 – Notice how your body feels and get a sense of fatigue. Perhaps create a benchmark workout to test your body's condition.
10:00 – When to take a deload week is highly personalized and depends on your body's current state
11:45 – A deload week can range from a few days to over a week, depending on your age, condition, and climbing goals.
14:30 – Schedule your climbing and training to fit the intensity of your "on" days
15:00 – Deload days can include light loading or other mild activity - but don't overdo it!
16:00 – Good nutrition can jumpstart recovery of connective tissues and your muscles
17:00 – In summary: deload periods are a week off from high-level training or climbing, but not necessarily complete rest
19:50 – Now, time for your questions!
********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********
20:30 – Do you know the "smart hangboard" climbro?
24:50 – I'm injured and cannot climb for a few months. When it comes to finger training, should I just train max hangs for the months or switch between max hangs and repeaters?
33:30 – How do I activate my power more quickly? It usually takes me a few burns.
37:30 – Cutting it short but looking forward to the next training café!
SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Copyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
