Uploaded November 2021 | Updated September 2026, 4 hours ago
Coach Hörst discusses the importance of a post-season assessment, as well as planning off-season training and next season travel. Eric also answers viewer questions on hangboard training for strength and endurance, importance of BMI, keeping a training logbook, dealing with next-day muscle pain, and more.
Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
1:30 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!
1:35 -Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee
2:20 - SHOUT-OUT to Alex Megos on another 5.15c ascent! Watch uncut send video here: youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU
4:35 - Introduction to Main Topic: End-of-season assessment, reflection, and planning for progress!
~10:00 - The importance of redesigning your training in order to progress next season.
~15:00 - Do rough 2022 season planning NOW!
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
18:30 - What tips and advice do you have for keeping a training log?
21:00 - Eric reveals his training log book with advice for keeping both objective and subjective data.
28:38 - Do you recommend taking EAAs or BCAAs, before or during training, in addition to Supercharged Collagen? Learn more: physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen
31:30 - What causes next-pain muscle pain? Is this sort of pain normal or something to avoid?
34:30 - I just dislocated my knee cap...so I'm wondering what training I can do during my recovery period?
36:00 - How many strength and endurance sessions can I do per week as an 8a-level climber?
38:00 - Is there an ideal BMI range for climbers?
40:20 - Do you think eccentric exercise is best for tendon health and strength? Read more about training and nutrition for healthy connective tissues: physivantage.com/pages/nutrition-for-tendons-ecm
44:00 - Eric comments on the 7-53 max strength hangboard protocol...and when you should switch to training one arm at a time.
45:20 - What's the difference between doing 7/3 Repeaters with added weight and longer rest and doing them at bodyweight (or less) with only a minute rest between sets?
50:00 - As a boulderer doing max finger training, how can I best add more finger grip variety?
53:30 - As a new climber, I'm wondering if I can do some hangboard training on large holds?
55:42 - My climbing season is about over, but I'm close on a 5.13a project. Should I travel to make more attempts before year's end or save it for next season and begin my winter training now?
58:01 - How many sizes do you downsize your La Sportiva climbing shoes? Get a discount on La Sportiva shoes here: sportiva.com/?avad=276649_d252cead5&utm_source=avantlink_www.trainingforclimbing.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=bb_affiliate&utm_content=Custom+Link&utm_term=276649_www.trainingforclimbing.com
1:00:30 - What are your thoughts on hangboarding with a half crimp or chisel?
1:02:30 - Final thoughts...
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Coach Hörst discusses the importance of a post-season assessment, as well as planning off-season training and next season travel. Eric also answers viewer questions on hangboard training for strength and endurance, importance of BMI, keeping a training logbook, dealing with next-day muscle pain, and more.
Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
RUNDOWN
1:30 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!
1:35 -Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee
2:20 - SHOUT-OUT to Alex Megos on another 5.15c ascent! Watch uncut send video here: youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU
4:35 - Introduction to Main Topic: End-of-season assessment, reflection, and planning for progress!
~10:00 - The importance of redesigning your training in order to progress next season.
~15:00 - Do rough 2022 season planning NOW!
****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******
18:30 - What tips and advice do you have for keeping a training log?
21:00 - Eric reveals his training log book with advice for keeping both objective and subjective data.
28:38 - Do you recommend taking EAAs or BCAAs, before or during training, in addition to Supercharged Collagen? Learn more: physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen
31:30 - What causes next-pain muscle pain? Is this sort of pain normal or something to avoid?
34:30 - I just dislocated my knee cap...so I'm wondering what training I can do during my recovery period?
36:00 - How many strength and endurance sessions can I do per week as an 8a-level climber?
38:00 - Is there an ideal BMI range for climbers?
40:20 - Do you think eccentric exercise is best for tendon health and strength? Read more about training and nutrition for healthy connective tissues: physivantage.com/pages/nutrition-for-tendons-ecm
44:00 - Eric comments on the 7-53 max strength hangboard protocol...and when you should switch to training one arm at a time.
45:20 - What's the difference between doing 7/3 Repeaters with added weight and longer rest and doing them at bodyweight (or less) with only a minute rest between sets?
50:00 - As a boulderer doing max finger training, how can I best add more finger grip variety?
53:30 - As a new climber, I'm wondering if I can do some hangboard training on large holds?
55:42 - My climbing season is about over, but I'm close on a 5.13a project. Should I travel to make more attempts before year's end or save it for next season and begin my winter training now?
58:01 - How many sizes do you downsize your La Sportiva climbing shoes? Get a discount on La Sportiva shoes here: sportiva.com/?avad=276649_d252cead5&utm_source=avantlink_www.trainingforclimbing.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=bb_affiliate&utm_content=Custom+Link&utm_term=276649_www.trainingforclimbing.com
1:00:30 - What are your thoughts on hangboarding with a half crimp or chisel?
1:02:30 - Final thoughts...
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2F
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
