Uploaded December 2025 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
🎉 25% OFF your next Realand order with code "hoopersbeta": realandnutrition.com/collections/all
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ TRAINING EQUIPMENT: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards with code “HoopersBeta10”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️Performance:
- Anti-corporate small-batch coffee (10% off with code "GFHB10"): groundfallcoffee.com/?ref=HOOPERSBETA
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:20 Block pulls vs hangboarding
02:30 ARC training
06:13 Plant based protein powder is actually good now
07:14 Running (for climbers)
09:38 Downsizing climbing shoes
11:45 Yielding vs overcoming isometrics for finger training
16:10 Strict rep ranges
20:20 Climbing drills
21:21 “Frictionless” finger training devices
27:51 Tindeq / force gauges
33:09 Pro climber = qualified coach?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 163
hoopersbeta.com/library/hype-vs-reality-pt-3
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🎉 25% OFF your next Realand order with code "hoopersbeta": realandnutrition.com/collections/all
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ TRAINING EQUIPMENT: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards with code “HoopersBeta10”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️Performance:
- Anti-corporate small-batch coffee (10% off with code "GFHB10"): groundfallcoffee.com/?ref=HOOPERSBETA
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:20 Block pulls vs hangboarding
02:30 ARC training
06:13 Plant based protein powder is actually good now
07:14 Running (for climbers)
09:38 Downsizing climbing shoes
11:45 Yielding vs overcoming isometrics for finger training
16:10 Strict rep ranges
20:20 Climbing drills
21:21 “Frictionless” finger training devices
27:51 Tindeq / force gauges
33:09 Pro climber = qualified coach?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 163
hoopersbeta.com/library/hype-vs-reality-pt-3
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
