Uploaded November 2021 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago

---

☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint

Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta

Thanks to The Wall Climbing Gym for allowing us to use their facilities!
thewallclimbinggym.com
instagram.com/thewallclimbinggym

// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com

// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions

// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join

// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb

// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
01:12 Video Overview
01:29 Why Bother??
01:58 Step 1: Improve Ankle Joint and Tissue Mobility
04:43 Step 2: Strengthening While Lengthening
06:12 Step 3: On-the-Wall Training
06:58 Recommendations and Circuit Routine
07:17 Outro, Bloopers, Etc.

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 96

INTRODUCTION

The ability to get a foot up as high as you can and be able to rock onto it is a crucial skill in climbing. So much to the point where research has even correlated that ability with climbing skill. What people don’t often understand is that ankle mobility is actually a large part of that movement!

In this video we are going to focus on how to improve ankle mobility for climbing! I’m going to show you a few simple stretching and strengthening exercises you can do pretty much anywhere, and then at the end I’ll show you how to put those exercises into a circuit routine. But first, why are we even making this video?

WHY IT’S IMPORTANT

Good ankle mobility and strength throughout the entire range of motion is more important than you might think. Without good mobility, you will find yourself limited in many aspects of climbing, particularly with moves that are highly dependent on foot friction or that require you to rock your weight over feet. Without good strength through a full range of motion in the ankle, you may be able to get into those deeper ankle positions, but you may find it challenging to move OUT of those positions. Not ideal when you’re trying to finish that sketchy mantle 20 feet up in the air! So how do we make sure that doesn’t happen?

PART 1: MOBILITY

Improving our mobility is our first essential task, plus it will increase our success with later exercises. Mobility involves both joint mobility and tissue mobility, so I’m going to recommend one exercise for each. To do these you’ll need a heavy-duty resistance band as well as a slant board (or rolled up towel).

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/increase-ankle-mobility-amp-strength-for-massive-footwork-gains

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Gastrocnemius: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Gastroc and soleus: J. Gordon Betts, Kelly A. Young, James A. Wise, Eddie Johnson, Brandon Poe, Dean H. Kruse, Oksana Korol, Jody E. Johnson, Mark Womble, Peter DeSaix, CC BY 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)

// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy