Uploaded June 2025 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Try the Harness Pants for yourself and use code ‘HOOPER’ for 10% off storewide from Rúngne! ▶︎ rungne.info/harness-pants
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:46 Today’s sponsor: “Roogknee” (10% off storewide!)
01:44 V0 - Jug comfort
02:35 V1 - Hold lighting
03:33 V2 - Board adjustability, Kilter grades, building out your “pyramid”, textured vs wood holds
05:29 V3 - App experirence
06:15 V4 - Hold color, hold comfort, grade progression, hold spacing tip
08:03 V5 - Memorizing routes, hold density, grip strength, Flux Training center, outdoor climbing
10:26 V6 - Holds too big, inconsistent grades, asking questions vs giving options
11:41 V7 - Learn momentum, slick wood feet, vs my homewall (so far)?
12:52 V8 - Hold spacing example, guiding you vs punishing you, boards aren’t the same
15:08 V9 - Quality control issues, holds too sharp
17:47 These boards or Moonboard?
18:32 V10 - The best problem yet, smashing around on juggy slopers
20:41 V11+ - Need more “classics”
21:01 How were the grades overall?
21:20 Which one has the most potential as a training tool?
21:53 What surprised you?
22:27 Which one did you have more fun on?
22:34 Replacing my homewall!?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 154
hoopersbeta.com/library/v0-v10-which-training-board-is-best-kilter-vs-tb2-vs-my-homewall
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Try the Harness Pants for yourself and use code ‘HOOPER’ for 10% off storewide from Rúngne! ▶︎ rungne.info/harness-pants
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: hoopers-beta-shop.fourthwall.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:46 Today’s sponsor: “Roogknee” (10% off storewide!)
01:44 V0 - Jug comfort
02:35 V1 - Hold lighting
03:33 V2 - Board adjustability, Kilter grades, building out your “pyramid”, textured vs wood holds
05:29 V3 - App experirence
06:15 V4 - Hold color, hold comfort, grade progression, hold spacing tip
08:03 V5 - Memorizing routes, hold density, grip strength, Flux Training center, outdoor climbing
10:26 V6 - Holds too big, inconsistent grades, asking questions vs giving options
11:41 V7 - Learn momentum, slick wood feet, vs my homewall (so far)?
12:52 V8 - Hold spacing example, guiding you vs punishing you, boards aren’t the same
15:08 V9 - Quality control issues, holds too sharp
17:47 These boards or Moonboard?
18:32 V10 - The best problem yet, smashing around on juggy slopers
20:41 V11+ - Need more “classics”
21:01 How were the grades overall?
21:20 Which one has the most potential as a training tool?
21:53 What surprised you?
22:27 Which one did you have more fun on?
22:34 Replacing my homewall!?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 154
hoopersbeta.com/library/v0-v10-which-training-board-is-best-kilter-vs-tb2-vs-my-homewall
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
![How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_-YapmymjA/mqdefault.jpg "How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚠️Block pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?
REFERENCES FROM THE VIDEO:
Lattice x Yves Video: https://youtu.be/nhyk765nw-8
Loading Pin (normal length): https://amzn.to/3H8ypbw
Loading Pin (short): https://amzn.to/3mSWmN5
Frictitious Boards (affiliate - $10 with code hoopers): https://bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code Hooper10
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Overview
01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video
PART 1: CONTEXT
01:49 Background Info: Why are no hangs so popular now?
02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise?
07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!!
PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN
08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use?
09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps?
11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use?
11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use?
12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight?
PART 3: GETTING STARTED
13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly?
14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds?
PART 4: FIRST SESSION
16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard?
18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight?
21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts?
PART 5: PROGRAMMING
24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this?
24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this?
25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this?
25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training?
PART 6: PROGRESSION
26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving?
28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working?
31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability?
32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 128
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-finger-strength-with-no-hangs
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpulls")
![How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Iy8wi_u5oFI/mqdefault.jpg "How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code hoopersbeta: https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code Hooper10
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code hoopersbeta: https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention Hoopers Beta at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
Videos mentioned:
Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): https://youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: Bad Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 125
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-for-climbing-full-body-guide
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons")
