Uploaded March 2021 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro (00:00)
Video Overview (00:44)
Context/Disclaimer (00:58)
Research Paper: The GOOD Bits (01:26)
Research Paper: The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (03:24)
Emil's Training Plan: The GOOD Bits (06:17)
Emil's Training Plan: The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (07:16)
What Actually Happened to Emil? The GOOD Bits (08:20)
What Actually Happened to Emil? The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (10:04)
Turning the Bad Into Good (12:17)
Summary of My Thoughts & Recommendations (14:13)
Conclusion: The Bigger Perspective / What We Learned (14:35)
Credits & Bloopers (15:43)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
After a fun weekend of climbing, I came back to see a bunch of requests to review Emil Abrahamsson’s new video about “Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days”, so, I was immediately curious. I clicked the link, watched the video, and was amazing at the improvements he made. In fact, I myself had to resist the initial urge of “when the heck do I start and send V18!!”. BUT, before we just follow the age old Hooper’s Beta motto of “eyes closed, head first, can’t lose”, let’s see if we can figure out what’s really going on here. Yeah that’s right, we’re talkin’ science!
In this video, we will talk about both the research AND what likely happened to Emil in his training from a scientific/anatomical point of view. We will look at the good AND the bad of each. But, to start...
I want to make a note right away that Emil makes a great point (twice) that everyone needs to understand: this is a sample size of 1! (Well, 2 if you count his brother and his claims of improved strength as well). This is a case study at this point.
But, that aside, let’s get into it and talk about the good, the bad, and the biggest question you all have… should I do this?!
The research - The Good
Before we get into Emil’s actual training, let’s talk about what this was all based around, an article titled “Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments”. In this article they develop connective tissue, or as they call it ‘Sinew’ from human fibroblast cells that were collected during ACL reconstructive surgery. They used these cells to create hundreds of “Sinew” for their testing.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/response-to-emil-abrahamssons-30-day-hangboard-program
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro (00:00)
Video Overview (00:44)
Context/Disclaimer (00:58)
Research Paper: The GOOD Bits (01:26)
Research Paper: The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (03:24)
Emil's Training Plan: The GOOD Bits (06:17)
Emil's Training Plan: The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (07:16)
What Actually Happened to Emil? The GOOD Bits (08:20)
What Actually Happened to Emil? The NOT-SO-GOOD Bits (10:04)
Turning the Bad Into Good (12:17)
Summary of My Thoughts & Recommendations (14:13)
Conclusion: The Bigger Perspective / What We Learned (14:35)
Credits & Bloopers (15:43)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
After a fun weekend of climbing, I came back to see a bunch of requests to review Emil Abrahamsson’s new video about “Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days”, so, I was immediately curious. I clicked the link, watched the video, and was amazing at the improvements he made. In fact, I myself had to resist the initial urge of “when the heck do I start and send V18!!”. BUT, before we just follow the age old Hooper’s Beta motto of “eyes closed, head first, can’t lose”, let’s see if we can figure out what’s really going on here. Yeah that’s right, we’re talkin’ science!
In this video, we will talk about both the research AND what likely happened to Emil in his training from a scientific/anatomical point of view. We will look at the good AND the bad of each. But, to start...
I want to make a note right away that Emil makes a great point (twice) that everyone needs to understand: this is a sample size of 1! (Well, 2 if you count his brother and his claims of improved strength as well). This is a case study at this point.
But, that aside, let’s get into it and talk about the good, the bad, and the biggest question you all have… should I do this?!
The research - The Good
Before we get into Emil’s actual training, let’s talk about what this was all based around, an article titled “Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments”. In this article they develop connective tissue, or as they call it ‘Sinew’ from human fibroblast cells that were collected during ACL reconstructive surgery. They used these cells to create hundreds of “Sinew” for their testing.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/response-to-emil-abrahamssons-30-day-hangboard-program
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
