Hoopers Beta | Why your FINGER INJURY WON'T HEAL and HOW TO FIX IT (Pain is Good) @HoopersBeta | Uploaded September 2020 | Updated October 2024, 10 minutes ago.
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👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
// Timestamps //
Intro & Video Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Care Study with Marcel (00:58)
Part 2: Neurological Effects of Injury with Dr. James Lee (02:19)
Summary of the Neurological Effects of Injury (04:42)
Part 3: Physical Effects of Injury (05:15)
Part 4: Rehab with the Proper Pain Protocol (06:37)
Farmer Crimps Reps & Frequency (09:16)
When Do I Increase the Weight? (09:44)
Outro & Bloopers (10:11)
Show Notes: Intro
I’m just going to come right out and say it, this is a complicated and deep subject, BUT we’re going to break it down into digestible pieces in this video because it’s such a massively important topic for climbers. We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “just won’t heal”. We will go deep into understanding pain science and how to USE that knowledge to rehab our injuries. We will go into a Proper Pain Protocol to help guide your process. AND, we are making this episode extra special by bringing in not 1, but 2 special guests.
For our two interviews, we will have a pain science discussion with Dr. James Lee, a physical therapist in Chicago who has been treating climbers there for years (and is of course, also a rock climber). And, we will have an interview with our friend Marcel, who is a rock climber himself who found himself in a similar situation uttering those same words to me while climbing one day: “I hurt my A4 a year ago, and it still hasn’t healed”.
We are going to start off with an interview with Marcel, but before we call him up, let’s give a little more background. Marcel is an awesome dude and a strong climber who experienced an A4 pulley injury about a year ago. In his words: “I was climbing at Tramway, it was cold, and of course i spent all of 10 minutes "warming up". I got through the slopey crux and grabbed a huge incut crimp with my left hand and as soon as I put my weight on it I heard a loud pop and my finger instantly went tingly and funny feeling. surprisingly no pain but suddenly I lost all power with that finger. It was never diagnosed but I believe a a4 injury on the middle finger.”
Now, it’s been long enough since the injury so the tissue should be healed at this time. But he is still experiencing discomfort. We will talk to him about his rehab process and check in on how he has been doing
For the rest of the show notes, please check out the website!
HoopersBeta.com/library/pain-science-and-climbing-rehab
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
// Timestamps //
Intro & Video Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Care Study with Marcel (00:58)
Part 2: Neurological Effects of Injury with Dr. James Lee (02:19)
Summary of the Neurological Effects of Injury (04:42)
Part 3: Physical Effects of Injury (05:15)
Part 4: Rehab with the Proper Pain Protocol (06:37)
Farmer Crimps Reps & Frequency (09:16)
When Do I Increase the Weight? (09:44)
Outro & Bloopers (10:11)
Show Notes: Intro
I’m just going to come right out and say it, this is a complicated and deep subject, BUT we’re going to break it down into digestible pieces in this video because it’s such a massively important topic for climbers. We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “just won’t heal”. We will go deep into understanding pain science and how to USE that knowledge to rehab our injuries. We will go into a Proper Pain Protocol to help guide your process. AND, we are making this episode extra special by bringing in not 1, but 2 special guests.
For our two interviews, we will have a pain science discussion with Dr. James Lee, a physical therapist in Chicago who has been treating climbers there for years (and is of course, also a rock climber). And, we will have an interview with our friend Marcel, who is a rock climber himself who found himself in a similar situation uttering those same words to me while climbing one day: “I hurt my A4 a year ago, and it still hasn’t healed”.
We are going to start off with an interview with Marcel, but before we call him up, let’s give a little more background. Marcel is an awesome dude and a strong climber who experienced an A4 pulley injury about a year ago. In his words: “I was climbing at Tramway, it was cold, and of course i spent all of 10 minutes "warming up". I got through the slopey crux and grabbed a huge incut crimp with my left hand and as soon as I put my weight on it I heard a loud pop and my finger instantly went tingly and funny feeling. surprisingly no pain but suddenly I lost all power with that finger. It was never diagnosed but I believe a a4 injury on the middle finger.”
Now, it’s been long enough since the injury so the tissue should be healed at this time. But he is still experiencing discomfort. We will talk to him about his rehab process and check in on how he has been doing
For the rest of the show notes, please check out the website!
HoopersBeta.com/library/pain-science-and-climbing-rehab
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
