Uploaded April 2024 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
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WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 What is this video about?
01:56 Climb #1: Compy slab (Ross)
04:55 Climb #2: Directional Vert (Aleena)
09:17 Watch out for the Chalk Inspection Agency!
10:52 Climb #3: Thuggy Overhang (Jason)
14:56 Ross's Turn
19:13 Climb #4: Light Overhang (Everyone)
22:35 Climb #5: Fingery Overhang (Ross)
26:45 Which shirt will Jason wear?
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
All exercises and recovery programs are to be performed at your own risk and should not be perforemed if you think you may be at risk of injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 What is this video about?
01:56 Climb #1: Compy slab (Ross)
04:55 Climb #2: Directional Vert (Aleena)
09:17 Watch out for the Chalk Inspection Agency!
10:52 Climb #3: Thuggy Overhang (Jason)
14:56 Ross's Turn
19:13 Climb #4: Light Overhang (Everyone)
22:35 Climb #5: Fingery Overhang (Ross)
26:45 Which shirt will Jason wear?
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
All exercises and recovery programs are to be performed at your own risk and should not be perforemed if you think you may be at risk of injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy








![Increase ANKLE MOBILITY & STRENGTH for Massive Footwork Gains
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
Thanks to The Wall Climbing Gym for allowing us to use their facilities!
https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
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// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
01:12 Video Overview
01:29 Why Bother??
01:58 Step 1: Improve Ankle Joint and Tissue Mobility
04:43 Step 2: Strengthening While Lengthening
06:12 Step 3: On-the-Wall Training
06:58 Recommendations and Circuit Routine
07:17 Outro, Bloopers, Etc.
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 96
INTRODUCTION
The ability to get a foot up as high as you can and be able to rock onto it is a crucial skill in climbing. So much to the point where research has even correlated that ability with climbing skill. What people don’t often understand is that ankle mobility is actually a large part of that movement!
In this video we are going to focus on how to improve ankle mobility for climbing! I’m going to show you a few simple stretching and strengthening exercises you can do pretty much anywhere, and then at the end I’ll show you how to put those exercises into a circuit routine. But first, why are we even making this video?
WHY IT’S IMPORTANT
Good ankle mobility and strength throughout the entire range of motion is more important than you might think. Without good mobility, you will find yourself limited in many aspects of climbing, particularly with moves that are highly dependent on foot friction or that require you to rock your weight over feet. Without good strength through a full range of motion in the ankle, you may be able to get into those deeper ankle positions, but you may find it challenging to move OUT of those positions. Not ideal when you’re trying to finish that sketchy mantle 20 feet up in the air! So how do we make sure that doesn’t happen?
PART 1: MOBILITY
Improving our mobility is our first essential task, plus it will increase our success with later exercises. Mobility involves both joint mobility and tissue mobility, so I’m going to recommend one exercise for each. To do these you’ll need a heavy-duty resistance band as well as a slant board (or rolled up towel).
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/increase-ankle-mobility-amp-strength-for-massive-footwork-gains
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Gastrocnemius: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons
Gastroc and soleus: J. Gordon Betts, Kelly A. Young, James A. Wise, Eddie Johnson, Brandon Poe, Dean H. Kruse, Oksana Korol, Jody E. Johnson, Mark Womble, Peter DeSaix, CC BY 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
https://www.instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial/
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy Increase ANKLE MOBILITY & STRENGTH for Massive Footwork Gains](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/HuEt_eNes3M/mqdefault.jpg)

