Uploaded April 2023 | Updated September 2026, 3 hours ago
I'm super proud to send this Red River Gorge ultra-classic! (Scroll down for training insights.)
This video shows the crux (top half) of the route. The first 50 feet (not shown in the video) is powerful 5.12a/b climbing to a decent rest. Then, as shown on this video, the upper half is an overhanging arete with a very technical sequence, on pockets and edges, leading to a dynamic boulder problem followed by a pumpy runout to the chains (skipping the last bolt clip is pretty much mandatory if you want to send).
5.13c is a rare grade for me…near my grade limit throughout my 47 years as a climber. To send this at age 59 — and to do it in just 5 sessions (~13 goes) — has me thinking about the possibilities for the Autumn send season here…
Training works! As a 59-year-old climber, it's critical to be active EVERY day -- do something physically challenging! -- and diet and nutrition is a massive wild card, for maintaining strength, accelerating recovery, and supporting endurance for long days climbing, training, working, etc. Here's an article with details on my training philosophy for aging athletes: trainingforclimbing.com/aging-is-mostly-a-state-of-body-fit-over-50
Give PhysiVantage a try! I'm powered by PhysiVantage Nutrition, and you can try it out and
SAVE 15% with checkout code SEND15 at physivantage.com/discount/Send15
I'm super proud to send this Red River Gorge ultra-classic! (Scroll down for training insights.)
This video shows the crux (top half) of the route. The first 50 feet (not shown in the video) is powerful 5.12a/b climbing to a decent rest. Then, as shown on this video, the upper half is an overhanging arete with a very technical sequence, on pockets and edges, leading to a dynamic boulder problem followed by a pumpy runout to the chains (skipping the last bolt clip is pretty much mandatory if you want to send).
5.13c is a rare grade for me…near my grade limit throughout my 47 years as a climber. To send this at age 59 — and to do it in just 5 sessions (~13 goes) — has me thinking about the possibilities for the Autumn send season here…
Training works! As a 59-year-old climber, it's critical to be active EVERY day -- do something physically challenging! -- and diet and nutrition is a massive wild card, for maintaining strength, accelerating recovery, and supporting endurance for long days climbing, training, working, etc. Here's an article with details on my training philosophy for aging athletes: trainingforclimbing.com/aging-is-mostly-a-state-of-body-fit-over-50
Give PhysiVantage a try! I'm powered by PhysiVantage Nutrition, and you can try it out and
SAVE 15% with checkout code SEND15 at physivantage.com/discount/Send15
