Uploaded May 2020 | Updated September 2026, 8 minutes ago
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
THIS EPISODE RUNDOWN: 00:15 - Commune together...with coffee! 00:50 - Importance of FOCUS in climbing. 1:50 - Importance of a SYSTEM for improvement. 2:45 - Don't become your own worst enemy. 5:20 - Pursuing your genetic potential. 7:10 - "Talent beats hard work when talent doesn't work hard". 8:45 - Self-discipline is the "great equalizer". 11:00 - Three levels of commitment: 11:10 - LOW commitment...makes you but a "dreamer". 12:12 - HEALTHY commitment...puts you in the sweet spot for long term gains and being a climber for life. 14:10 - OBSESSION...overcommitting to climbing at the expense of everything else in your life. Avoid this! 17:25 - TC SHOUT OUT to...Melissa Le Neve on sending Action Directe (5/14d/9a) -- the first female ascent!
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QUESTION & ANSWER section. 19:50 - Can I hangboard and climb on the same day? 25:20 - For max hangs...is it better to use a larger hold with more weight or a smaller hold with less weight? 29:10 - Cafe Kraft use of energy system training? 30:55 - Advice for resting on a route during a redpoint attempt? "Stronger climbers can rest on smaller holds." 34:30 - Why should we train Energy Systems separately? 37:40 - Best way to train max pull-ups? I recommend the "5 x 5" protocol as shown in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=T8t86kXZ2FU&
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39:45 - How to best train the climbing-specific aerobic energy system? ARC versus "Threshold" training? 46:54 - What Treadwall model do I use? 47:15 - How to best get back into climbing/training after a period away for it? 48:18 - What do I think about using Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training as part of a climbing program? 49:25 - Closing comments.
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SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!
Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!
THIS EPISODE RUNDOWN: 00:15 - Commune together...with coffee! 00:50 - Importance of FOCUS in climbing. 1:50 - Importance of a SYSTEM for improvement. 2:45 - Don't become your own worst enemy. 5:20 - Pursuing your genetic potential. 7:10 - "Talent beats hard work when talent doesn't work hard". 8:45 - Self-discipline is the "great equalizer". 11:00 - Three levels of commitment: 11:10 - LOW commitment...makes you but a "dreamer". 12:12 - HEALTHY commitment...puts you in the sweet spot for long term gains and being a climber for life. 14:10 - OBSESSION...overcommitting to climbing at the expense of everything else in your life. Avoid this! 17:25 - TC SHOUT OUT to...Melissa Le Neve on sending Action Directe (5/14d/9a) -- the first female ascent!
*******
QUESTION & ANSWER section. 19:50 - Can I hangboard and climb on the same day? 25:20 - For max hangs...is it better to use a larger hold with more weight or a smaller hold with less weight? 29:10 - Cafe Kraft use of energy system training? 30:55 - Advice for resting on a route during a redpoint attempt? "Stronger climbers can rest on smaller holds." 34:30 - Why should we train Energy Systems separately? 37:40 - Best way to train max pull-ups? I recommend the "5 x 5" protocol as shown in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=T8t86kXZ2FU&
********
39:45 - How to best train the climbing-specific aerobic energy system? ARC versus "Threshold" training? 46:54 - What Treadwall model do I use? 47:15 - How to best get back into climbing/training after a period away for it? 48:18 - What do I think about using Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training as part of a climbing program? 49:25 - Closing comments.
********
SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.com
FREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insiders
Eric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.com
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbing
