Uploaded May 2021 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
Greatest appreciation to Dan Beall! If you're interested in receiving amazing coaching with Dan, you can reach him at danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Footage kindly provided by:
Vincent Mollicone
Instagram: @vollico
YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UChFc45x_uX08oLgcJV9yeaA/featured
BadWater Bouldering
Instagram: @badwaterbouldering
YouTube: youtube.com/c/BadWaterBouldering/videos
BadWater Bouldering's awesome 20-minute video on Evilution Direct: youtube.com/watch?v=OXEhbsVXhy0&t=8s
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
// TIMESTAMPS //
Preview (00:00)
Full Climbing Video (00:19)
Introduction and Background (02:15)
Climbing Analysis: (06:13)
Information about Coaching with Dan Beall (11:02)
Analysis Resumes (11:44)
Final Thoughts and Takeaways (22:36)
Outro (25:13)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
Welcome to a very special episode of the Anatomy Of the Climb featuring professional climber, Dan Beall! We get Dan’s take on an epic climb in the Buttermilks, Evilution V11
Climb Info
Climb: Evilution (V11)
Location: The Buttermilks, Bishop
Climbers: Vincent Mollicone (@vmollico) and BadWater Bouldering (@badwaterbouldering)
Movement
First Move:
The first move I want to talk about is this big yard out to a far away right hand.
Now the body position and the incline of this climb make this a really interesting move. The right hand is very abducted and he is getting a lot of latissimus dorsi activation. Now, because of the incline he also wants to keep himself closer to the wall, but he is so extended that he is at a mechanical disadvantage for the right shoulder. Seemingly, the left foot and hand would appear to be what’s keeping him close to the wall. But, Dan, you have much more experience on this climb, can you talk about this first move and even into the set up for the next left hand?
It is interesting to see the different holds as well. The kind of side pull undercling versus the more traditional hold. One of them makes the next left hand move look far easier
As he unwinds he gets into a more traditional wide pull position and seemingly moves to the left hand without any issues. Is that because of the good right foot? The right hand? Etc.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/its-okay-to-charge-pro-climber-and-pt-analyze-a-bishop-classic-evilution-direct-v118a
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Abduction: Connexions, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
Greatest appreciation to Dan Beall! If you're interested in receiving amazing coaching with Dan, you can reach him at danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
Footage kindly provided by:
Vincent Mollicone
Instagram: @vollico
YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UChFc45x_uX08oLgcJV9yeaA/featured
BadWater Bouldering
Instagram: @badwaterbouldering
YouTube: youtube.com/c/BadWaterBouldering/videos
BadWater Bouldering's awesome 20-minute video on Evilution Direct: youtube.com/watch?v=OXEhbsVXhy0&t=8s
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
// TIMESTAMPS //
Preview (00:00)
Full Climbing Video (00:19)
Introduction and Background (02:15)
Climbing Analysis: (06:13)
Information about Coaching with Dan Beall (11:02)
Analysis Resumes (11:44)
Final Thoughts and Takeaways (22:36)
Outro (25:13)
// SHOW NOTES //
Intro
Welcome to a very special episode of the Anatomy Of the Climb featuring professional climber, Dan Beall! We get Dan’s take on an epic climb in the Buttermilks, Evilution V11
Climb Info
Climb: Evilution (V11)
Location: The Buttermilks, Bishop
Climbers: Vincent Mollicone (@vmollico) and BadWater Bouldering (@badwaterbouldering)
Movement
First Move:
The first move I want to talk about is this big yard out to a far away right hand.
Now the body position and the incline of this climb make this a really interesting move. The right hand is very abducted and he is getting a lot of latissimus dorsi activation. Now, because of the incline he also wants to keep himself closer to the wall, but he is so extended that he is at a mechanical disadvantage for the right shoulder. Seemingly, the left foot and hand would appear to be what’s keeping him close to the wall. But, Dan, you have much more experience on this climb, can you talk about this first move and even into the set up for the next left hand?
It is interesting to see the different holds as well. The kind of side pull undercling versus the more traditional hold. One of them makes the next left hand move look far easier
As he unwinds he gets into a more traditional wide pull position and seemingly moves to the left hand without any issues. Is that because of the good right foot? The right hand? Etc.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/its-okay-to-charge-pro-climber-and-pt-analyze-a-bishop-classic-evilution-direct-v118a
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Abduction: Connexions, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
