Uploaded October 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
This is both a steadyview X and standard module in skyzone goggles so 4 antennas total. A Rush Tank Max Solo is at max power here. I put my best antennas on the standard one to try avoiding audio cutouts since that's the only one doing audio anyway. The steadyview x's narrow band filter isn't doing much here since I have to use the standard wide band receiver along with it just to have audio. It's just giving me 2 extra antennas. I'm not really feeling the view and build of the skyzone goggles but they give the best reception yet for me so I deal with them. So this is basically a ~33dBm analog setup and you can see the reasonable range ends about where the heavy obstructions begin.
It works pretty good in a decent sized building with sheetrock walls but never really does well actually going around too much solid obstruction. Outside the near field any antenna movement creates noise, and any random interference still creates artifacts.Again I'm always sitting in my car when doing these tests so there's going to be more gains when the receivers are in the clear but probably not too much.
I haven't tried a ton of analog cameras cause I've used Ant Cams mostly.. but when trying a popular RunCam I only noticed better light adaptation and no improvement in clarity.
To try making 5.8G w/audio work how I wanted I ended up getting:
Flysight Black Mamba (honestly pretty damn good vtx, just needed tons of extra cooling to last and eventually burned up)
AKK Race Ranger VTX (Great VTX, didn't like the built in mic)
AKK Ultra Long Range VTX (Great VTX, same thing didn't like mic though)
Rush Tank Max Solo VTX (Great VTX WITH dedicated audio channel)
More VTX's I'm forgetting about + bunch of antennas..
Skyzone Goggles + Receiver (crappy overpriced goggles compared to DJI builds, decent receiver WITH audio but not QUITE the steadyview X)
Steadyview X RX (great fairly sensitive receiver but with NO audio)
Cheap FPV screen (didn't have audio but looked good)
Cheap FPV receiver goggles (had audio but low sensitivity)
- What I ended up with:
Skyzone goggles quadversity w/audio via headphones + Rush Tank Max Solo VTX
Lumenier Double AXII Antennas on VTX and RX + Patches and Mushroom Omni (Double AXII is best suited for receiving in a stationary position so I might switch it on the VTX)
Electret Microphone
So after taking Analog 5.8 about as far as I'd want at this point I don't think I'd ever be able to do any useful roaming beyond LOS. I've seen it done out there with just random VTX's etc but I don't personally see how I could make it work without investing a ton of money and time into equipment and trial and error testing to tweak all the tuning on everything. The same goes for 1.3G. These systems would be great for me if they could maintain their best quality throughout the full range of travel how DJI basically does.
If you just go straight to digital you only need the extra bit of making audio work, which for me was just adding the 1.3 vtx and lugging around a receiver box to use along with goggles. Even with the most ideal analog experience I can think of, there are still going to be times where I'm driving fast and can't tell what I'm about to drive over etc.
This is both a steadyview X and standard module in skyzone goggles so 4 antennas total. A Rush Tank Max Solo is at max power here. I put my best antennas on the standard one to try avoiding audio cutouts since that's the only one doing audio anyway. The steadyview x's narrow band filter isn't doing much here since I have to use the standard wide band receiver along with it just to have audio. It's just giving me 2 extra antennas. I'm not really feeling the view and build of the skyzone goggles but they give the best reception yet for me so I deal with them. So this is basically a ~33dBm analog setup and you can see the reasonable range ends about where the heavy obstructions begin.
It works pretty good in a decent sized building with sheetrock walls but never really does well actually going around too much solid obstruction. Outside the near field any antenna movement creates noise, and any random interference still creates artifacts.Again I'm always sitting in my car when doing these tests so there's going to be more gains when the receivers are in the clear but probably not too much.
I haven't tried a ton of analog cameras cause I've used Ant Cams mostly.. but when trying a popular RunCam I only noticed better light adaptation and no improvement in clarity.
To try making 5.8G w/audio work how I wanted I ended up getting:
Flysight Black Mamba (honestly pretty damn good vtx, just needed tons of extra cooling to last and eventually burned up)
AKK Race Ranger VTX (Great VTX, didn't like the built in mic)
AKK Ultra Long Range VTX (Great VTX, same thing didn't like mic though)
Rush Tank Max Solo VTX (Great VTX WITH dedicated audio channel)
More VTX's I'm forgetting about + bunch of antennas..
Skyzone Goggles + Receiver (crappy overpriced goggles compared to DJI builds, decent receiver WITH audio but not QUITE the steadyview X)
Steadyview X RX (great fairly sensitive receiver but with NO audio)
Cheap FPV screen (didn't have audio but looked good)
Cheap FPV receiver goggles (had audio but low sensitivity)
- What I ended up with:
Skyzone goggles quadversity w/audio via headphones + Rush Tank Max Solo VTX
Lumenier Double AXII Antennas on VTX and RX + Patches and Mushroom Omni (Double AXII is best suited for receiving in a stationary position so I might switch it on the VTX)
Electret Microphone
So after taking Analog 5.8 about as far as I'd want at this point I don't think I'd ever be able to do any useful roaming beyond LOS. I've seen it done out there with just random VTX's etc but I don't personally see how I could make it work without investing a ton of money and time into equipment and trial and error testing to tweak all the tuning on everything. The same goes for 1.3G. These systems would be great for me if they could maintain their best quality throughout the full range of travel how DJI basically does.
If you just go straight to digital you only need the extra bit of making audio work, which for me was just adding the 1.3 vtx and lugging around a receiver box to use along with goggles. Even with the most ideal analog experience I can think of, there are still going to be times where I'm driving fast and can't tell what I'm about to drive over etc.
