Uploaded May 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Here's a test of my 5.8G setup after installing a rear cam and front RunCam Thumb. I needed a really small action cam and the Thumb might work out.
It takes an external 5v supply so I powered it through a 5v linear regulator coming off the aux battery. Simple hit button to record, hit button to stop and it pulls a little less than a couple watts when recording. I noticed it doesn't work right unless I set it to only 30fps though. It will randomly stop recording or shut off at 60fps and it may be due to a microSD card incompatibility I can't seem to fix (I later realized it was my 5v supply crapping out and an LM7805 worked fine). It handles low light more realistically than the analog cam so it would be a good cam for night time exploring using a flashlight. It was a Friday night real late but I'd piss off too many people driving the 1/16 around. I noticed the 1/10 is much quieter when moving around at a crawl and it doesn't need to hit power boosts just to get over grass. The 1/16 will fit in tighter spaces though so it's a trade off.
I also desoldered the stock antenna on the RC6GS to replace it with a connector so I can run different antennas or use the wifi signal booster I put on there. The biggest difference within maybe a 100ft range I noticed using the booster was about 20dbm or so. It will allow me to run my normal stock setup and if I happen to lose control I can switch over to the booster and get control back to return the car. You don't ever want to constantly be running such a booster unless you absolutely need it though. Also if you don't do the mod right there's really no point in doing it at all so the connections of the antenna and shielding need to be precise and low loss.
The wobble was really annoying but I realized later it went away after switching gyro mode off. This HyperGo car started experiencing that after I stiffened up the weak ass servo saver that was preventing solid turning while driving. I think the footage from the FPV screen DVR would have been better to watch but I didn't have another microSD card for it on me.
When it comes to anything short range I will always prefer this 5.8 setup because of how simple and effective it is even with all basic crap antennas. 5.8 also uses smaller antennas which is another space saving bonus. I don't need to worry about sitting the receiver a certain way etc.. just set it anywhere and drive around a parking lot/building/field etc.. Every now and then the camera wiring will move a certain way which causes motor interference, those are the dark lines that appear on the screen when revving the motor. With proper CP antennas and a patch I think this thing could go really far if I had LOS. If you'll have LOS the whole time there's really no reason to use another system. I'd use 5.8g on any aircraft I didn't plan to fly through or around buildings.
I'm still ironing out my 1.3g car but I'm getting closer to being able to go farther out without horrible signal. With some helpful tips I realized all the transmitters I was testing were basically different flavors of the same garbage so hopefully the different looking variant I got for cheap off Aliexpress will work better when it arrives. Owner of the WillySummit channel has given me some tips.. cool guy and you can check out his channel to see how good 1.3g can be. Super impressive and affordable.
Here's a test of my 5.8G setup after installing a rear cam and front RunCam Thumb. I needed a really small action cam and the Thumb might work out.
It takes an external 5v supply so I powered it through a 5v linear regulator coming off the aux battery. Simple hit button to record, hit button to stop and it pulls a little less than a couple watts when recording. I noticed it doesn't work right unless I set it to only 30fps though. It will randomly stop recording or shut off at 60fps and it may be due to a microSD card incompatibility I can't seem to fix (I later realized it was my 5v supply crapping out and an LM7805 worked fine). It handles low light more realistically than the analog cam so it would be a good cam for night time exploring using a flashlight. It was a Friday night real late but I'd piss off too many people driving the 1/16 around. I noticed the 1/10 is much quieter when moving around at a crawl and it doesn't need to hit power boosts just to get over grass. The 1/16 will fit in tighter spaces though so it's a trade off.
I also desoldered the stock antenna on the RC6GS to replace it with a connector so I can run different antennas or use the wifi signal booster I put on there. The biggest difference within maybe a 100ft range I noticed using the booster was about 20dbm or so. It will allow me to run my normal stock setup and if I happen to lose control I can switch over to the booster and get control back to return the car. You don't ever want to constantly be running such a booster unless you absolutely need it though. Also if you don't do the mod right there's really no point in doing it at all so the connections of the antenna and shielding need to be precise and low loss.
The wobble was really annoying but I realized later it went away after switching gyro mode off. This HyperGo car started experiencing that after I stiffened up the weak ass servo saver that was preventing solid turning while driving. I think the footage from the FPV screen DVR would have been better to watch but I didn't have another microSD card for it on me.
When it comes to anything short range I will always prefer this 5.8 setup because of how simple and effective it is even with all basic crap antennas. 5.8 also uses smaller antennas which is another space saving bonus. I don't need to worry about sitting the receiver a certain way etc.. just set it anywhere and drive around a parking lot/building/field etc.. Every now and then the camera wiring will move a certain way which causes motor interference, those are the dark lines that appear on the screen when revving the motor. With proper CP antennas and a patch I think this thing could go really far if I had LOS. If you'll have LOS the whole time there's really no reason to use another system. I'd use 5.8g on any aircraft I didn't plan to fly through or around buildings.
I'm still ironing out my 1.3g car but I'm getting closer to being able to go farther out without horrible signal. With some helpful tips I realized all the transmitters I was testing were basically different flavors of the same garbage so hopefully the different looking variant I got for cheap off Aliexpress will work better when it arrives. Owner of the WillySummit channel has given me some tips.. cool guy and you can check out his channel to see how good 1.3g can be. Super impressive and affordable.
