Uploaded April 2024 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
🧗20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount (frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta) OR free shipping on any product with code "hoopers"
🤚10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🙋♂️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): emilemodesitt.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie). Previous episode with Kyra: youtu.be/3mrHLqhEJX0
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro with Olympic Climber Kyra Condie
00:13 When a bigger move is the easier beta
01:12 Why climbers get "stuck" in difficult positions
02:21 Pay attention to posterior shoulder strength
02:56 A nasty foot cut, and alternate beta
04:07 Foot pressure = hand accuracy
05:33 How to hit holds more accurately
06:32 Getting stuck in a high foot position + pros' beta
08:32 Momentum is key to get out of this situation
09:22 How to generate momentum in a tricky spot
10:06 Stop being afraid of full ROM shoulder exercises
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode __
hoopersbeta.com/library
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
🧗20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount (frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta) OR free shipping on any product with code "hoopers"
🤚10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
📱 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
💪 $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
🍕 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (diet tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
👟 REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🧗 The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🧗 Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🙋♂️ YouTube Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for YouTube, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): emilemodesitt.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie). Previous episode with Kyra: youtu.be/3mrHLqhEJX0
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro with Olympic Climber Kyra Condie
00:13 When a bigger move is the easier beta
01:12 Why climbers get "stuck" in difficult positions
02:21 Pay attention to posterior shoulder strength
02:56 A nasty foot cut, and alternate beta
04:07 Foot pressure = hand accuracy
05:33 How to hit holds more accurately
06:32 Getting stuck in a high foot position + pros' beta
08:32 Momentum is key to get out of this situation
09:22 How to generate momentum in a tricky spot
10:06 Stop being afraid of full ROM shoulder exercises
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode __
hoopersbeta.com/library
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
