Uploaded August 2020 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// Timestamps //
Important info about this routine (00:00)
Warm-Up (01:16)
Round 1: Submax Hangs (01:38)
Round 2: Single-Arm Recruitment Pulls (02:27)
Round 3: Submax Hangs with Weight Added (03:46)
Round 4: Max Weight Hangs (04:30)
Round 4 (Alternate): Minimum Edge Hangs (05:47)
Final Notes, Outro, & Bloopers (07:09)
What happens when you decide you want to hangboard AND climb. Can you do both? Can you continue hangboard training and getting strong while you climb? Yes. This video and these show notes discuss a hangboard training program meant to be a supplement to your climbing. It introduces appropriate stretches and activities to do while you rest in between hangs in order to optimize your session. It discusses when it is appropriate to do so and what you can expect.
This routine will be broken down into a few sections. It will focus on a proper warm up which will include both physical and neurological aspects. It will have a max effort round, and will have specific movements built into it to promote healthy mobility and training for climbing. It’s important to note that these exercises won’t be placing a large demand on your cardiovascular system, which will allow you to fully recover between sets and reserve energy if you are deciding to climb later.
The purpose of this routine is for building strength to advance your climbing. It is designed for:
- Climbers who climb outside only and don’t have access to a gym but do have access to a hangboard (maybe in a sweet sprinter van)
- Climbers looking to add to their training routine to build finger strength.
- Climbers who can only climb a couple days a week that want to optimize those training days.
The other thing that specifically went into designing this program is utilizing the breaks with other tools that will benefit our climbing. The mobility exercises were chosen to promote hip and lower extremity mobility to work on functional movement with climbing. They will help work on high feet and big reaches. They will help improve your heel hooks and keep your hips closer to the wall. They are meant to give you something to do to have a true active rest so your forearms and fingers can recover while you do something beneficial rather than just scroll on your phone.
The show notes are pretty extensive for this one, so be sure to check them out for all the details!
HoopersBeta.com/library
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// Timestamps //
Important info about this routine (00:00)
Warm-Up (01:16)
Round 1: Submax Hangs (01:38)
Round 2: Single-Arm Recruitment Pulls (02:27)
Round 3: Submax Hangs with Weight Added (03:46)
Round 4: Max Weight Hangs (04:30)
Round 4 (Alternate): Minimum Edge Hangs (05:47)
Final Notes, Outro, & Bloopers (07:09)
What happens when you decide you want to hangboard AND climb. Can you do both? Can you continue hangboard training and getting strong while you climb? Yes. This video and these show notes discuss a hangboard training program meant to be a supplement to your climbing. It introduces appropriate stretches and activities to do while you rest in between hangs in order to optimize your session. It discusses when it is appropriate to do so and what you can expect.
This routine will be broken down into a few sections. It will focus on a proper warm up which will include both physical and neurological aspects. It will have a max effort round, and will have specific movements built into it to promote healthy mobility and training for climbing. It’s important to note that these exercises won’t be placing a large demand on your cardiovascular system, which will allow you to fully recover between sets and reserve energy if you are deciding to climb later.
The purpose of this routine is for building strength to advance your climbing. It is designed for:
- Climbers who climb outside only and don’t have access to a gym but do have access to a hangboard (maybe in a sweet sprinter van)
- Climbers looking to add to their training routine to build finger strength.
- Climbers who can only climb a couple days a week that want to optimize those training days.
The other thing that specifically went into designing this program is utilizing the breaks with other tools that will benefit our climbing. The mobility exercises were chosen to promote hip and lower extremity mobility to work on functional movement with climbing. They will help work on high feet and big reaches. They will help improve your heel hooks and keep your hips closer to the wall. They are meant to give you something to do to have a true active rest so your forearms and fingers can recover while you do something beneficial rather than just scroll on your phone.
The show notes are pretty extensive for this one, so be sure to check them out for all the details!
HoopersBeta.com/library
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
