Hoopers Beta | Kyle Hill's DANGEROUS Physics of Rock Climbing | Doctor of PT's Response @HoopersBeta | Uploaded July 2022 | Updated October 2024, 6 hours ago.
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
đ Help us create the Largest Library of FREE Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
â Our Mega A2 Pulley Video: youtu.be/_AxN5HyBLfM
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock climbers: bit.ly/3P5XhCf
Injury trends in rock climbers: evaluation of a case series of 911 injuries between 2009 and 2012: bit.ly/3P8556x
- Descriptive Epidemiology, Medical Evaluation, and Outcomes of Rock Climbing Injuries: bit.ly/3bUmW2w
- Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers: bit.ly/3Ih10dG
- Biomechanics of the interaction of finger flexor tendons and pulleys in rock climbing. bit.ly/3upzh4T
- The influence of the crimp and slope grip position on the finger pulley system: bit.ly/3ahpPd8
- Mechanical properties of human pulleys: bit.ly/3OPJkss
- Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and - -- Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries: bit.ly/3NNaqPf
- Flexor Tendon Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers: bit.ly/3R77OyP
- Value of high-resolution ultrasound in the evaluation of finger injuries in extreme sport climbers: bit.ly/3RbZGwK
Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers: bit.ly/3bMcoSP
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 What are we doing?
00:33 Only 2 ways to grip a crimp
01:12 33% of climbing injuries are the same
03:14 There are 3 pulleys in our fingers
03:56 The A2 pulley is CONSTANTLY about to fail
07:19 A2 pulley injuries are unavoidable
07:58 Kyle's advice vs. my advice
10:03 Help us help you!
10:30 Yeet!
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 109
hoopersbeta.com/library/33-of-climbing-injuries-are-the-same-why-my-response-to-kyle-hills-viral-video
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Pulley Anatomy: GFDL, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
@kylehill #trainclimbsendrepeat #kylehill #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
đ Help us create the Largest Library of FREE Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
â Our Mega A2 Pulley Video: youtu.be/_AxN5HyBLfM
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
- Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock climbers: bit.ly/3P5XhCf
Injury trends in rock climbers: evaluation of a case series of 911 injuries between 2009 and 2012: bit.ly/3P8556x
- Descriptive Epidemiology, Medical Evaluation, and Outcomes of Rock Climbing Injuries: bit.ly/3bUmW2w
- Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers: bit.ly/3Ih10dG
- Biomechanics of the interaction of finger flexor tendons and pulleys in rock climbing. bit.ly/3upzh4T
- The influence of the crimp and slope grip position on the finger pulley system: bit.ly/3ahpPd8
- Mechanical properties of human pulleys: bit.ly/3OPJkss
- Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and - -- Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries: bit.ly/3NNaqPf
- Flexor Tendon Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers: bit.ly/3R77OyP
- Value of high-resolution ultrasound in the evaluation of finger injuries in extreme sport climbers: bit.ly/3RbZGwK
Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers: bit.ly/3bMcoSP
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 What are we doing?
00:33 Only 2 ways to grip a crimp
01:12 33% of climbing injuries are the same
03:14 There are 3 pulleys in our fingers
03:56 The A2 pulley is CONSTANTLY about to fail
07:19 A2 pulley injuries are unavoidable
07:58 Kyle's advice vs. my advice
10:03 Help us help you!
10:30 Yeet!
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 109
hoopersbeta.com/library/33-of-climbing-injuries-are-the-same-why-my-response-to-kyle-hills-viral-video
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Pulley Anatomy: GFDL, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
@kylehill #trainclimbsendrepeat #kylehill #doctorofphysicaltherapy
