Uploaded June 2020 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
Fun Fact: Rats are ticklish!
To see the full show notes including written out answers, check out the site HoopersBeta.com where you will also find an entire library of climber related training and rehab content.
// Timestamps //
Intro Montage (00:00)
Why do my fingers get locked in a half-crimp position? (00:30)
Fun Fact of the Day! (01:55)
Does pain from "tennis elbow" radiate down the forearm and olecranon? (02:02)
Is it bad to stretch forearms when you have a TFCC injury? (02:58)
Should Jason wear a shirt? (03:59)
Is it okay to hang with straight arms on the hangboard? (04:17)
What exercises should climbers do to avoid upper trap injuries? (05:07)
Closing & Bloopers (6:30)
#hangboarding #physicaltherapist #climbinginjury
Fun Fact: Rats are ticklish!
To see the full show notes including written out answers, check out the site HoopersBeta.com where you will also find an entire library of climber related training and rehab content.
// Timestamps //
Intro Montage (00:00)
Why do my fingers get locked in a half-crimp position? (00:30)
Fun Fact of the Day! (01:55)
Does pain from "tennis elbow" radiate down the forearm and olecranon? (02:02)
Is it bad to stretch forearms when you have a TFCC injury? (02:58)
Should Jason wear a shirt? (03:59)
Is it okay to hang with straight arms on the hangboard? (04:17)
What exercises should climbers do to avoid upper trap injuries? (05:07)
Closing & Bloopers (6:30)
#hangboarding #physicaltherapist #climbinginjury


![Why Climbers Should Rethink Core Strength Training
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Hoopers Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
1 - Core Stability Training for Injury prevention - https://bit.ly/2TiNigt
2 - Core Stability Exercise Principles. Current Sports Medicine Reports - https://bit.ly/3X7n9C5
3 - Effects of core strength training on core stability - https://bit.ly/3kcE3AG
4 - Core strengthening - https://bit.ly/3IGIBcI
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context and Setup
00:57 Mistake #1: Definition Problems
02:24 Mistake #2: Strength is Not the Whole Story
04:32 Mistake #3: Where Body Tension Actually Comes From
05:38 Mistake #4: Working Against Yourself
07:34 Training Core Strength
08:29 Training Body Tension
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 123
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/are-climbers-wasting-their-time-training-core-a-measured-argument
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Vectors by Vecteezy
vecteezy.com/free-vector/[conversation, dictionary, flex, abs, tired, pyramid, confused, lost, missed-target, hourglass, weak-man, split, wrong-way, full-battery, zap]
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy Why Climbers Should Rethink Core Strength Training](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jwyd40EBnlI/mqdefault.jpg)





![From V0 to V5 in His First Month of Climbing... Is it Safe? | Viewer Questions
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
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The longest viewer question video yet! 16 minutes?! Well, thats just what happens when you guys ask a bunch of great questions!
**Please keep posting your questions! It make take a bit longer to answer some of them but its only because we are working hard to produce loads more content for you all!**
Here is what is featured in this Q&A session!
Questions:
1) Whats really going on when I wake up a day after an intense finger session and I feel my fingers stiff (but not painful)? Is it better to take a rest on such days?
2) Is there some research that tells us that the standard 3-5 min breaks of max strength workouts should also be applied when hangboarding?
3) About the cracking.. usually I get a slight discomfort (cant really call it pain) in my ringfinger of the right hand, and ring+middlefinger of the left. Then I have to crack them to release the pain. This helps for a while until I have to crack them again. I cant really crimp with them when theyre not cracked because that actually hurts. Is that weird?
4) Is it best to put pre-habilitation exercises for elbows on climbing days or non-climbing days?
5) Seeing as were immobile for large parts of the day should we consider doing this routine [stretching routine] twice a day?
6) How fast is it safe to progress? If you’re climbing V5s with thin holds and finger pockets after your first month climbing is it okay on your tendons or are you asking for injury?
Thanks again for watching! Keep those great questions coming!
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166 From V0 to V5 in His First Month of Climbing... Is it Safe? | Viewer Questions](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/lc_6GnUYNXQ/mqdefault.jpg)

