In this video we use some classic Moonboard climbs to demonstrate broadly applicable techniques that climbers often don't do, ultimately leading to them falling off. This is Part 1, covering V4-V6 (though these techniques apply to any skill level). Climbs featured: Wuthering Heights V4, Al a gait or V4, Magnum V6.
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie)
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Overview 00:19 Kyra's method for big moves off high feet 02:00 Why climbers get stuck "in between" holds 04:12 When NOT to open-hand holds (crimp!!) 06:08 Sometimes you can't "technique" your way out 07:39 Why you must learn to dig behind holds 09:27 Why your movement looks clunky sometimes 10:21 Jason makes a great point but fails hilariously 12:12 When your arm and shoulder is "out of sync" 13:33 Climbers have been misled about "disengaged" shoulders 15:47 Kyra's final beta 16:27 Embarrassing story
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
Techniques that Make or Break Your Board ClimbingHoopers Beta2024-03-18 | 👋 Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) ▶ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all
In this video we use some classic Moonboard climbs to demonstrate broadly applicable techniques that climbers often don't do, ultimately leading to them falling off. This is Part 1, covering V4-V6 (though these techniques apply to any skill level). Climbs featured: Wuthering Heights V4, Al a gait or V4, Magnum V6.
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie)
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Overview 00:19 Kyra's method for big moves off high feet 02:00 Why climbers get stuck "in between" holds 04:12 When NOT to open-hand holds (crimp!!) 06:08 Sometimes you can't "technique" your way out 07:39 Why you must learn to dig behind holds 09:27 Why your movement looks clunky sometimes 10:21 Jason makes a great point but fails hilariously 12:12 When your arm and shoulder is "out of sync" 13:33 Climbers have been misled about "disengaged" shoulders 15:47 Kyra's final beta 16:27 Embarrassing story
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyFix your facepull formHoopers Beta2024-04-01 | ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fitnessmotivation #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy you still cant one-arm pullupHoopers Beta2024-03-25 | ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#onearmpullup #climbingtraining #fitnessmotivationTeaching climbing technique, but badlyHoopers Beta2024-03-18 | ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Scorpion like Janja Garnbret (Underrated Technique)Hoopers Beta2024-02-26 | 🥵 Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE by Downloading the FREE Crimpd App & Logging “Scorpion Technique Workout” ▶ crimpd.com
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Context 00:32 Consequences of not using this technique... 01:00 The secret about this technique 02:17 This routine + 2 BONUS exercises are on CRIMPD! 02:47 Find the form 03:34 Refine the form 04:26 Try it on the wall 05:55 Add complexity 07:56 Add complexity and physicality
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024]Hoopers Beta2024-01-23 | Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) ▶ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS 1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a029744 2: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4 3: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/905612 4: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro and what to expect // SECTION 1: Why? // 01:21 Why boulderers should care 02:36 Why not just train strength instead? // SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options // 03:16 Overview of Training Options 04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("Circuiting") 05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons 05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent 06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent? 07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall? 07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview 08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended) 08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters") 09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete? 11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent 12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board? 12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview 13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent 14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead? 15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets? 15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol // SECTION 3: Programming recommendations // 16:45 So... which method should I choose? 17:40 Why no talk of energy systems? 19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general? 20:10 How intense should endurance sets be? 21:00 How many endurance sets per training session? 21:47 How much rest should I take? 23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training? 23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance? // SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks // 24:42 Pick the right climbs 25:09 Head to the overhang 25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake 25:53 Key to long-term progress...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Start Strength Training for Climbing like a MinimalistHoopers Beta2023-12-11 | WIN a YEAR SUPPLY of MagDust Chalk from Rúngne Enter Here ▶ rungne.info/HoopersBeta
🙏 Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk of Mesa Rim North City for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 👉 Tindeq affiliate link: tindeq.com/?post_type=product&ref=1003 👉 Frictitious affiliate link (code: "hoopers"): https://shorturl.at/jADIJ 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyUnlock Full Body Mobility (if you can survive this one routine...)Hoopers Beta2023-11-20 | 🥳 Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE by Downloading the FREE Crimpd App & Logging “Hooper & Ieva's Full Body Mobility Routine” ▶ crimpd.com
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Context 00:23 Win free Crimpd+ for life! 01:15 Ieva's intro to this routine 02:18 Forearm stretch & nerve glide 03:43 Child's pose 05:51 Downward dog with knee flexion and extension 06:37 Squat (optional weight) 07:37 Goddess pose 08:39 Runner's lunge (right) 09:46 Rectus femoris stretch (left) 10:33 Runner's lunge (left) 11:35 Rectus femoris stretch (right) 12:29 Warrior 3 and half moon (right) 14:21 Wide forward fold 16:29 Cossack squat 17:30 Hip internal rotation (left) 18:16 Pigeon pose (left) 19:26 Plank knee drivers (right) 20:22 Warrior 3 and half moon (left) 21:32 Wide forward fold 22:13 Cossack squat 23:00 Hip internal rotation (right) 23:25 Pigeon pose (right) 24:37 Plank knee drivers (left) 24:59 Puppy pose to upward dog 26:19 Arm circles (right) 27:35 Arm circles (left) 28:38 Relaxation breathing 29:36 Outro
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Preview 00:40 Classic run & jump error 02:10 When your hip mobility ruins your heel hook 03:46 Hip mobility heel hook drill 06:02 Shoulder advice for avoiding injuries 08:55 Her heel hook is perfect (+compression tips) 12:11 Alternate beta 13:01 The MOST useful climbing app, ever 14:03 Proof shoulder external rotation strength is key? 15:27 When to use heels vs toe hooks 18:17 One climbing rule to never break (Janja's scorpion) 19:39 Drive your knee accross the wall, not into it 21:42 Slow climbing will kill your sends 24:22 Pay more attention to opposition 25:36 The Big Climber 32:30 Why you need blubbers and better pad placement 33:51 Trick for pad placement
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyProof Collagen Supplements Don’t Work?Hoopers Beta2023-10-09 | ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 📱 KAYA PRO (20% off): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS All citations are available at the following link! https://shorturl.at/iET08
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 The best collagen study yet? 00:57 Understand this about collagen studies 03:10 New study results and what they mean 05:00 Case closed, right? WRONG! More issues... 06:28 An unbiased perspective and my advice 08:05 The hilarious irony of it all
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy10 Science-Based Ways to Get Stronger in Half the Time (Training for Climbing)Hoopers Beta2023-09-18 | Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) ➡️ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS All citations can be found in the document linked below! https://shorturl.at/iqEK7
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyDo Climbers Really Need Deload Weeks?Hoopers Beta2023-09-05 | 😋 Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
TAPERING RESEARCH - Changes in Muscle Architecture, Explosive Ability, and Track and Field Throwing Performance Throughout a Competitive Season and After a Taper pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27575250 - Effects of tapering on performance in endurance athletes: A systematic review and meta-analysis pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37163550 - Tapering and Peaking Maximal Strength for Powerlifting Performance: A Review pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32917000
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Bit O' Context 00:57 Deloads Defined 01:55 Why It Matters 04:01 Why We Can Spend Time Making These Videos 05:13 Argument Against Deloads 07:52 Argument In Favor of Deloads 09:57 Reactive Deload Guidelines 12:13 Proactive Deload Guidelines
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyOptimizing Training for Climbing | Hype vs RealityHoopers Beta2023-08-21 | 💚 Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro 00:21 Core-Strength Training 01:04 Antagonist Training 01:54 Interference Effect 02:48 Cardio for Climbers 04:24 Concentric Finger Strength Training 06:25 Recruitment Pulls 06:51 Endurance Training for Boulderers 09:18 Face Pulls 10:25 Training Periodization 12:07 Hangboard/Campusboard Risk for Youth 14:06 Progressive Overload 15:04 Gaining Muscle for Climbing 16:35 Losing Weight for Climbing 17:36 Muscle Confusion 18:45 Lower Body Training 20:13 Stretching & Flexibility Training
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy3-5 Strength Program for ClimbersHoopers Beta2023-08-14 | ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
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⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyControversial Nutrition & Climbing Tactics, Explained | Hype vs RealityHoopers Beta2023-08-07 | 😋 Visit thrivemarket.com/HoopersBeta to get 30% Off Your First Thrive Market Order AND a Free Gift Worth up to $60! ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro ➡️Category 1: Nutrition 00:18 Creatine 03:11 Diet Tracking 07:33 BCAA Supplements 08:28 Collagen Supplements 10:07 Animal Protein vs Plant Protein 11:57 Why We Can Make These Videos for Free :) ➡️Category 2: Recovery 13:12 Deload Phases 15:34 Avoiding Downclimbing 18:05 Ice Baths & Cold Showers ➡️Category 3: Climbing 18:44 High-Angle Crimping 20:45 Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue" 23:08 Warming Up 25:05 Moonboarding 26:01 Board Climbing / Spray Walls
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyRock Climbers Are Obsessed with ThisHoopers Beta2023-07-31 | Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy6 Tips that Blew Up My Climbing ProgressionHoopers Beta2023-07-24 | 💚 Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
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Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyAdvanced Progression Technique for ClimbersHoopers Beta2023-07-10 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhat Climbers Get Wrong About AntagonistsHoopers Beta2023-07-03 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyCould Cueing Revolutionize Your Climbing Progression?Hoopers Beta2023-06-26 | 🌿Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video!
Want to climb more like the pros we all look up to? Intention and cueing is key, as evidenced by @AdamOndra and @EmilAbrahamsson on their fantastic YouTube channels.
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Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro 00:48 Cueing Defined 01:46 Why It Matters 03:28 Types of Cue 04:54 Cinematic Intermission 06:26 How It Works 08:49 Advanced Cueing 09:49 What We Learned
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]Hoopers Beta2023-06-19 | ➡️ Head to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbeta
Is this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka "mixed hangs." They're so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they don't require any weights or additional equipment!
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Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro & Overview 00:31 Part 1: Advantages 02:44 Part 2: Getting Started 03:43 How do I know what holds to use? 05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level 06:36 Part 3: Progressing 06:52 Progression Step 1 07:48 Progression Step 2 08:20 Progression Step 3 09:16 Part 4: Recommendations 09:25 Improving Efficiency 10:06 Frequency 10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning 11:23 Getting Unstuck 12:21 Remember the Premise
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyDont Blame Wingspan! These Mistakes Limit Your ReachHoopers Beta2023-05-29 | 🌿Go to athleticgreens.com/HOOPERSBETA to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video!
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to Mesa Rim North City (@mesarim_NC)! Get a 1-Week Pass with free Rental Gear when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk!! mesarim.com/northcity
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro & Video Overview 00:28 Climb 1: Lateral Dyno 00:42 Climb 1 Analysis: Hip, Foot Placement Issues 02:31 Climb 1 Demonstration: 3 Mistakes to Avoid 02:49 Mistake #1 05:24 Mistake #2 07:05 Mistake #3 08:05 Climb 2: Vertical Dynamic Move 09:30 Climb 2 Analysis: Humans Aren't Made for This 10:28 Climb 2 Demonstration: Why Climbing Training is Weird 11:54 Drill #1 12:57 Drill #2 14:34 Drill #3 16:11 Climb 3: Full Span Move 16:35 Climb 3 Analysis (Dan): Need More Extension 17:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Dan): Maximizing Reach 20:16 Climb 3 Analysis (Jason): Figuring Out Body Position 20:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Jason): Reverse Engineering Movement 22:34 Recap of What We've Learned
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyCollateral Ligament Injury from Rock Climbing (Causes & Fix)Hoopers Beta2023-05-22 | FlexiSpot is gaving a Brand Day Sale on May 22-25, offering the best deals of the year. This is the best time to get a standing desk! 🖥️ Flexispot links: US site: bit.ly/3OenCRt CAN site: bit.ly/3LMLtVr
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS - Complications of Proximal Interphalangeal Joint Injuries: Prevention and Treatment: bit.ly/3YzUNBa - The Collateral Ligament of the Digits of the Hand: Anatomy, Physiology, Biomechanics, Injury, and Treatment. bit.ly/3S48jKE - Jam Injuries of the Finger: Diagnosis and Management of Injuries to the Interphalangeal Joints Across Multiple Sports and Levels of Experience. bit.ly/3YUqJQA
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro/Overview 00:17 Collateral Ligament Anatomy 00:54 Causes of Injury 02:07 Symptoms, Testing, & Diagnosis 04:01 Ruling Out Other Injuries (Differential Diagnosis) 06:26 Rehab/Treatment Options 06:34 Can You Still Climb? (Tape?) 07:31 Active Range of Motion 08:17 Exercise and BFR 08:48 Manual Therapy / Massage 09:06 Joint Mobilization 09:50 Rice Bucket? 10:13 Ice and Heat? 10:56 Patience (and Surgery?) 11:21 Prognosis
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyShould You Hangboard 2x/Day like Emil Abrahamsson? (New Analysis & Recs)Hoopers Beta2023-05-15 | ➡️Head to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbeta.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS - The effect of training intensity on voluntary isometric strength improvement. - bit.ly/44XHSMV - Isometric training and long-term adaptations: Effects of muscle length, intensity, and intent: A systematic review. bit.ly/452Y5R9 - Muscle hypertrophy and strength gains after resistance training with different volume-matched loads: a systematic review and meta-analysis. bit.ly/3M3xURA - Effects of different duration isometric contractions on tendon elasticity in human quadriceps muscles. bit.ly/3MqINOE - Effects of isometric squat training on the tendon stiffness and jump performance. bit.ly/3Bo7CEE - Effects of Resistance Training Performed with Different Loads in Untrained and Trained Male Adult - Individuals on Maximal Strength and Muscle Hypertrophy: A Systematic Review. bit.ly/3Ob1cjY - Effect of Exercise Intensity on the Healing of the Bone-Tendon Interface: A Mouse Rotator Cuff Injury Model Study . bit.ly/3pAfYGx - Low-Intensity Physical Exercise Improves Pain Catastrophizing and Other Psychological and - Physical Aspects in Women with Fibromyalgia: A Randomized Controlled bit.ly/42X5AXF - Effect of Low-intensity Exercise on Physical and Cognitive Health in Older Adults: a Systematic Review. bit.ly/42WYTVw - Low-intensity Exercise Accelerates Wound Healing in Diabetic Mice. bit.ly/42weSdw - Optimizing an intermittent stretch paradigm using ERK1/2 phosphorylation results in increased collagen synthesis in engineered ligaments. bit.ly/42Cc9za - Identification and Distinction of Tenocytes and Tendon-Derived Stem Cells. bit.ly/3nYXcbo - Value of high-resolution ultrasound in the evaluation of finger injuries in extreme sport climbers]. bit.ly/41w0gtv - The knowns and unknowns of neural adaptations to resistance training. bit.ly/3M4FATx - Comparison of the effects of long-lasting static stretching and hypertrophy training on maximal strength, muscle thickness and flexibility in the plantar flexors [published online ahead of print, bit.ly/3o3zjQ7 - Evidence-Based High-Loading Tendon Exercise for 12 Weeks Leads to Increased Tendon Stiffness and Cross-Sectional Area in Achilles Tendinopathy: A Controlled Clinical Trial. bit.ly/3o8ypBL - Human tendon adaptation in response to mechanical loading: a systematic review and meta-analysis of exercise intervention studies on healthy adults. bit.ly/42Sb3z9 - Effect of different resistance-training protocols on the extracellular matrix of the calcaneal tendon of rats. bit.ly/3O9Nj5n
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 A Lot Has Changed in 2 Years 00:57 How Did We Get Here? 02:15 Doesn't the Study Explain Everything? 03:27 How Does It All Work? 03:33 Muscle Hypertrophy 04:40 Connective Tissue Thickening 05:53 Tendon Stiffening 07:19 Paying Our Bills :) 08:01 Strength Recruitment 09:40 Connective Tissue Remodeling 11:09 Pain Science 13:13 Other Variables 13:46 What Have We Learned? 15:08 Should You Do This Routine?
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtrainingClimbers Over-Complicate Pullup TrainingHoopers Beta2023-05-08 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]Hoopers Beta2023-04-24 | ➡️Head to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbeta. ⚠️Block pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro and Overview 01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video --PART 1: CONTEXT-- 01:49 Background Info: Why are "no hangs" so popular now? 02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise? 07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!! --PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN-- 08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use? 09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps? 11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use? 11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use? 12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight? --PART 3: GETTING STARTED-- 13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly? 14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds? --PART 4: FIRST SESSION-- 16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard? 18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight? 21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts? --PART 5: PROGRAMMING-- 24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this? 24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this? 25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this? 25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training? --PART 6: PROGRESSION-- 26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving? 28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working? 31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability? 32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpullsInaccurate Climbing Advice I Hear Every Day (EVEN FROM PROS!)Hoopers Beta2023-04-17 | 🌿Go to athleticgreens.com/HOOPERSBETA to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today’s video!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS - Molecular mechanisms of exercise contributing to tissue regeneration - bit.ly/3zHKNLm - A Randomized Controlled Trial Comparing Traditional Plaster Cast Rehabilitation With Functional Walking Boot Rehabilitation for Acute Achilles Tendon Ruptures - bit.ly/43dr5Vl - Muscle and tendon adaptations to moderate load eccentric vs. concentric resistance exercise in young and older males - bit.ly/3ocZdk1
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro and Context 00:32 Most common advice for new climbers, ever? 03:09 An excuse/misunderstanding about finger strength 07:54 Your tendons are probably perfectly fine, here's why 09:53 Huge rehab mistake 11:28 One of the most costly training mistakes climbers make
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyThe Most UNDERRATED Climbing SkillHoopers Beta2023-04-10 | Link to full length hip mobility video: youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyAre These Mistakes Stopping You from Climbing Harder? (How to Fix)Hoopers Beta2023-03-27 | ➡️Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/HOOPERSBETA and enter promo code HOOPERSBETA for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE!
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Increase Ankle Mobility for Rock ClimbingHoopers Beta2023-03-20 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS) - Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta - Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1 - Hooper's Beta Amazon Storefront: amzn.to/3yQtqHD -- Has links to our favorite climbing shoes, chalk, and loads of awesome rehab tools!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyHow to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]Hoopers Beta2023-03-06 | There are numerous ways to support free content on this channel, including buying through our affiliate links below, buying a t-shirt, and becoming a YouTube member. :)
Videos mentioned: Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store 🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw 📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA 🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City! - The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWish I Had Known This When Climbing PocketsHoopers Beta2023-02-20 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
VIDEO LINKS: - How to Fix Lumbrical Pain (Lumbrical Injury, Pocket Climbing Injury) - bit.ly/410SE2W - What Climbers Should Know About Lumbricals (STRANGE Hand Muscles) - bit.ly/3Z6o727
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy Do Climbers Love Deadlifts? w/ @LatticeTraining @EmilAbrahamssonHoopers Beta2023-02-13 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
THANK YOU to Tom Randall @WideBoyz and the Lattice crew @LatticeTraining well as @EmilAbrahamsson lending your time and knowledge for this video!
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Context and Overview 00:41 Anatomy and What People Think These Exercises Do 02:21 Coach's Recommendations (Tom Randall / Lattice) 05:55 V14/15 Climber's Recommendations (Emil Abrahamsson) 09:09 Jason's Breakdown of These Exercises for Climbers 11:39 How to Deadlift with Michael Gaspari, DPT 14:28 Deadlift Reps/Sets Recommendations 15:22 How to Bench Press 19:02 Bench Press Reps/Sets Recommendations 19:55 Closing Statements
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyDoes Power Screaming Improve Climbing Performance?Hoopers Beta2023-01-30 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS - Shouting strengthens maximal voluntary force and is associated with augmented pupillary dilation - bit.ly/3CXe8Dv - Grunting in tennis increases ball velocity but not oxygen cost - bit.ly/3XFI6Ea - Grunting's competitive advantage: Considerations of force and distraction - bit.ly/3XEkQq0 - Vocal disinhibition (grunting) does not increase dead lift force in college athletes or nonathletes - bit.ly/3CXoZ06 - The effects of "grunting" on serve and forehand velocities in collegiate tennis players - bit.ly/3XHhOBn - The Effects of Forced Exhalation and Inhalation, Grunting, and Valsalva Maneuver on Forehand Force in Collegiate Tennis Players - bit.ly/3w8M6RR
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy Climbers Should Rethink Core Strength TrainingHoopers Beta2023-01-23 | 🌿Go to athleticgreens.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to Athletic Greens for sponsoring today’s video!
AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins, minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS 1 - Core Stability Training for Injury prevention - bit.ly/2TiNigt 2 - Core Stability Exercise Principles. Current Sports Medicine Reports - bit.ly/3X7n9C5 3 - Effects of core strength training on core stability - bit.ly/3kcE3AG 4 - Core strengthening - bit.ly/3IGIBcI
⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Context and Setup 00:57 Mistake #1: Definition Problems 02:23 Why We Can Make These Videos Free for Everyone 03:34 Mistake #2: Strength is Not the Whole Story 05:43 Mistake #3: Where Body Tension Actually Comes From 06:49 Mistake #4: Working Against Yourself 08:45 Training Core Strength 09:40 Training Body Tension
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyFront Lever Training MistakeHoopers Beta2023-01-16 | 🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a two-man team, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyThese 5 Climbing Myths Must Be Stopped (Full Crimp, Carbs, Weight Training)Hoopers Beta2023-01-09 | 🙏Thanks to LMNT for sponsoring this video! Head to: http://DrinkLMNT.com/HOOPERSBETA to get your free sample pack with any purchase.
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy Just Climbing Isnt EnoughHoopers Beta2023-01-02 | 🔗 Website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyFixing 5 Common Mistakes that Make Climbers Fall Every TimeHoopers Beta2022-12-26 | 🔥 KAYA PRO Free 2-Week Trial: Use code KAYAGB2022 🔥 For instructions on how to redeem the code, see this doc: bit.ly/3hYmHGK
// TIMESTAMPS // 00:00 Intro 00:15 When to shift from a heel to a toe 01:07 The difference between effective and ineffective training 02:03 Position your body before moving your hands 03:22 Demonstration: The difference between easy and hard is often tiny 04:47 How to use this as actionable advice 05:31 How to get "unstuck" from sidepulls (hip flick) 07:09 Don't pull STRAIGHT to the next hold 08:46 Instagram, 8a, Mountain Project, and guidebooks all in one 09:40 Rows for climbers and how to engage a better drop knee 10:23 "Basically never" use a drop knee this way
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyCore Strength: The Biggest Mistake Climbers MakeHoopers Beta2022-12-19 | How do you actually increase body tension? By having good technique on the wall, by having a strong upper body, and by having the coordination to engage many muscles across your entire body at the same time, from your fingertips all the way down to your toes. Ab-only exercises accomplish little of that, if any. We'll make a full length video on this soon!
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyCan the MAGNUS MIDTBØ 9c TEST Reveal Your Biggest Weakness? @Ross-Fulkerson @AnnaHazelnuttHoopers Beta2022-12-12 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy 3 Fingers is STRONGER than 4 for Some ClimbersHoopers Beta2022-12-05 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyTop 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You)Hoopers Beta2022-11-28 | Go to athleticgreens.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to Athletic Greens for sponsoring today's video!
// AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
// TIMESTAMPS // 00:00 Why This Matters 00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds 01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength 01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain 02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds 03:15 #6: For feeling better on camping trips 04:26 The Real #6: Heel hook strength and safety 05:07 #5: For better body tension and control 06:03 #4: For strong healthy shoulders 06:44 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks 07:43 #2: For ripping holds off the wall 08:31 #1: For climbing better
Key Points: Lumbricals (hand muscles used for strength and safety on pockets), Anterior Tibialis (ankle dorsiflexor for toe hooks), Wrists (wrist flexors and extensors for wrist stability on slopers), Flexor Hallucis Longus (big toe flexor for toeing down on small holds and pulling with our toes), Hamstrings (for heel hooks and overhangs), Lower Trapezius (for scapular retraction and overall shoulder health), Hips (various muscles for open hip mobility and high step ability, including the hamstrings, glutes, hip adductors), Shoulder External Rotators (infraspinatus and teres minor externally rotate the shoulder which is a common position in climbing), Flexor Digitorum Profundus (primary finger flexor that enables us to hold onto everything, yet gets ignored sometimes)
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS // Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JP Flexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0 Glutes: Original by sv:Användare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0 Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0 Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0 Quadriceps: The original uploader was יוסי הראשון at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyIF ONLY I Knew This When I Started ClimbingHoopers Beta2022-11-21 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// RESEARCH CITATIONS // Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers-A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database: bit.ly/3BdXoGp Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review bit.ly/3SB7MyV Efficacy of corticosteroid injection in rock climber's tenosynovitis bit.ly/3rRGQjm
Key Points: Flexor Tenosynovitis vs A2 Pulley Injury, How to Diagnose Tenosynovitis, How to Treat Tenosynovitis, Corticosteroid Injection, Finger Pain from Climbing, Pulley Pain
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyIs the CLOSED Crimp Position Good for Climbers?Hoopers Beta2022-11-07 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// RESEARCH CITATIONS // The thumb during the crimp grip - bit.ly/3hfGO2B
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS // The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com Be sure to mention Hooper's Beta to knock down that day price from $20 to $15!
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyWhy Your Strength Isnt Transferring to Climbing (FIX THESE MISTAKES!)Hoopers Beta2022-10-31 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// SPECIAL THANKS // The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com & @EmilAbrahamsson (for letting us use his footage of Off the Wagon!)
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// TIMESTAMPS // 00:00 Intro 00:16 How to maximize friction/force on holds 01:12 How to stand on volumes so you don't slip 02:21 Long-term and INSTANT hip flexion gains 03:26 Why newer climbers push themselves off the wall 04:32 When technique hasn't caught up to strength... 05:56 Drop knees can work against you 07:28 Emil Abrahamsson on Off the Wagon V14/8B+
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyThe Biggest Mistake Rock Climbers Make with PullupsHoopers Beta2022-10-24 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
If you're in the SD area, be sure to check out The Wall Climbing Gym and mention Hooper's Beta to knock that day price down from $20 to $15!
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS // Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapyTop 12 WORST Exercises for Climbers (THAT EVERYONE DOES!)Hoopers Beta2022-10-17 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
A special thanks and shoutout to Anna Hazelnutt for joining us in this video! - Follow her on IG @annahazelnutt or on her YouTube channel youtube.com/c/annahazelnutt
// OUR WEBSITE // In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// DISCLAIMER // As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.