Why Climbers Should Rethink Core Strength Training Hoopers Beta 2023-01-23 | ๐ฟGo to athleticgreens.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to Athletic Greens for sponsoring todayโs video!AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your bodyโs nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! Itโs packed with 75 vitamins, minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS1 - Core Stability Training for Injury prevention - bit.ly/2TiNigt2 - Core Stability Exercise Principles. Current Sports Medicine Reports - bit.ly/3X7n9C5 3 - Effects of core strength training on core stability - bit.ly/3kcE3AG 4 - Core strengthening - bit.ly/3IGIBcI โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Context and Setup00:57 Mistake #1: Definition Problems02:23 Why We Can Make These Videos Free for Everyone03:34 Mistake #2: Strength is Not the Whole Story05:43 Mistake #3: Where Body Tension Actually Comes From06:49 Mistake #4: Working Against Yourself08:45 Training Core Strength09:40 Training Body Tension๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 123hoopersbeta.com/library/are-climbers-wasting-their-time-training-core-a-measured-argument๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88Fโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSVectors by Vecteezyvecteezy.com/free-vector/[conversation, dictionary, flex, abs, tired, pyramid, confused, lost, missed-target, hourglass, weak-man, split, wrong-way, full-battery, zap]#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Fix your facepull form Hoopers Beta 2024-04-01 | โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#fitnessmotivation #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Why you still cant one-arm pullup Hoopers Beta 2024-03-25 | โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#onearmpullup #climbingtraining #fitnessmotivation
Teaching climbing technique, but badly Hoopers Beta 2024-03-18 | โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSโ TIMESTAMPS๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode __hoopersbeta.com/library๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Techniques that Make or Break Your Board Climbing Hoopers Beta 2024-03-18 | ๐ Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) โถ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all In this video we use some classic Moonboard climbs to demonstrate broadly applicable techniques that climbers often don't do, ultimately leading to them falling off. This is Part 1, covering V4-V6 (though these techniques apply to any skill level). Climbs featured: Wuthering Heights V4, Al a gait or V4, Magnum V6.Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie)โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Overview00:19 Kyra's method for big moves off high feet02:00 Why climbers get stuck "in between" holds04:12 When NOT to open-hand holds (crimp!!)06:08 Sometimes you can't "technique" your way out07:39 Why you must learn to dig behind holds09:27 Why your movement looks clunky sometimes10:21 Jason makes a great point but fails hilariously12:12 When your arm and shoulder is "out of sync"13:33 Climbers have been misled about "disengaged" shoulders15:47 Kyra's final beta16:27 Embarrassing story๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 145hoopersbeta.com/library/before-you-moonboard-know-this-part-1๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Scorpion like Janja Garnbret (Underrated Technique) Hoopers Beta 2024-02-26 | ๐ฅต Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE by Downloading the FREE Crimpd App & Logging โScorpion Technique Workoutโ โถ crimpd.com Beastmaker board sets (so good!!): beastmaker.co.uk/products/whole-board-setsโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Context00:32 Consequences of not using this technique...01:00 The secret about this technique02:17 This routine + 2 BONUS exercises are on CRIMPD!02:47 Find the form03:34 Refine the form04:26 Try it on the wall05:55 Add complexity07:56 Add complexity and physicality๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 144hoopersbeta.com/library/scorpion-skill-why-does-no-one-teach-this-climbing-technique๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Stop Pumping Out on Boulders [Endurance Training Guide 2024] Hoopers Beta 2024-01-23 | Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) โถ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all Thanks to โโ @AnnaHazelnutt fo joining us!!Tindeq affiliate link (with discount): tindeq.com/?ref=1003#ref=sponsoredโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a0297442: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-43: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/9056124: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro and what to expect// SECTION 1: Why? //01:21 Why boulderers should care02:36 Why not just train strength instead?// SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options //03:16 Overview of Training Options04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("Circuiting")05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent?07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall?07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended)08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters")09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete?11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board?12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead?15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets?15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol// SECTION 3: Programming recommendations //16:45 So... which method should I choose?17:40 Why no talk of energy systems?19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general?20:10 How intense should endurance sets be?21:00 How many endurance sets per training session?21:47 How much rest should I take?23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training?23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance?// SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks //24:42 Pick the right climbs25:09 Head to the overhang25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake25:53 Key to long-term progress...๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 143hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-stop-punting-endurance-training-for-boulderers-guide-2024๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Start Strength Training for Climbing like a Minimalist Hoopers Beta 2023-12-11 | WIN a YEAR SUPPLY of MagDust Chalk from RรบngneEnter Here โถ rungne.info/HoopersBeta๐ Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk of Mesa Rim North City for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ Tindeq affiliate link: tindeq.com/?post_type=product&ref=1003๐ Frictitious affiliate link (code: "hoopers"): https://shorturl.at/jADIJ๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-danโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 What to Expect00:28 Before Climbing Exercise: Grip Strength02:30 Shoulder Exercises (Optional)03:04 Climbing Session04:48 After Climbing05:23 Superset 108:04 Superset 2 (Optional)09:55 Final Recommendations๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 141hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-start-strength-training-for-climbing-my-minimalist-routine๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Unlock Full Body Mobility (if you can survive this one routine...) Hoopers Beta 2023-11-20 | ๐ฅณ Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE by Downloading the FREE Crimpd App & Logging โHooper & Ieva's Full Body Mobility Routineโ โถ crimpd.com Follow Ieva at:- Instagram: @luna.al.sol- YouTube: @yogaforclimberswithievaluna โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Context00:23 Win free Crimpd+ for life!01:15 Ieva's intro to this routine02:18 Forearm stretch & nerve glide03:43 Child's pose05:51 Downward dog with knee flexion and extension06:37 Squat (optional weight)07:37 Goddess pose08:39 Runner's lunge (right)09:46 Rectus femoris stretch (left)10:33 Runner's lunge (left)11:35 Rectus femoris stretch (right)12:29 Warrior 3 and half moon (right)14:21 Wide forward fold16:29 Cossack squat17:30 Hip internal rotation (left)18:16 Pigeon pose (left)19:26 Plank knee drivers (right)20:22 Warrior 3 and half moon (left)21:32 Wide forward fold22:13 Cossack squat23:00 Hip internal rotation (right)23:25 Pigeon pose (right)24:37 Plank knee drivers (left)24:59 Puppy pose to upward dog26:19 Arm circles (right)27:35 Arm circles (left)28:38 Relaxation breathing29:36 Outro๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 141hoopersbeta.com/library/unlock-insane-functional-mobility-full-follow-along๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.comiPhone photo: freepik.com/free-vector/new-modern-realistic-front-view-black-iphone-mockup-isolated-white-mobile-template-vector_33632328.htm#query=iphone%20transparent&position=0&from_view=keyword&track=ais&uuid=efabe3db-fa32-4425-8b14-01089012265f Image by svstudioart on Freepik#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
1 Climbing Rule to Never Break (& Other Tips) Hoopers Beta 2023-10-23 | โ ๏ธ 20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETACheck out some guidebooks:โก๏ธ Bishop: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Bishop-316882โก๏ธ Red Rock: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Red-Rocks-331387โก๏ธ Joe's valley: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Joes-Valley-340826โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Preview00:40 Classic run & jump error02:10 When your hip mobility ruins your heel hook03:46 Hip mobility heel hook drill06:02 Shoulder advice for avoiding injuries08:55 Her heel hook is perfect (+compression tips)12:11 Alternate beta13:01 The MOST useful climbing app, ever14:03 Proof shoulder external rotation strength is key?15:27 When to use heels vs toe hooks18:17 One climbing rule to never break (Janja's scorpion)19:39 Drive your knee accross the wall, not into it21:42 Slow climbing will kill your sends24:22 Pay more attention to opposition25:36 The Big Climber32:30 Why you need blubbers and better pad placement33:51 Trick for pad placement๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 140hoopersbeta.com/library/one-climbing-rule-to-never-break-other-mistakes-to-avoid๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Proof Collagen Supplements Donโt Work? Hoopers Beta 2023-10-09 | โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฑ KAYA PRO (20% off): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSAll citations are available at the following link!https://shorturl.at/iET08โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 The best collagen study yet?00:57 Understand this about collagen studies03:10 New study results and what they mean05:00 Case closed, right? WRONG! More issues...06:28 An unbiased perspective and my advice08:05 The hilarious irony of it all๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 139hoopersbeta.com/library/the-end-of-collagen-for-climbers-new-evidence-advice๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Climbers, 10x your exercise science knowledge! Hoopers Beta 2023-10-02 | @biolayne1 @JeffNippard @RenaissancePeriodization @strongerbyscience โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
10 Science-Based Ways to Get Stronger in Half the Time (Training for Climbing) Hoopers Beta 2023-09-18 | Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) โก๏ธ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/allโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSAll citations can be found in the document linked below!https://shorturl.at/iqEK7๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 138hoopersbeta.com/library/10-science-backed-ways-to-get-stronger-in-half-the-time๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Do Climbers Really Need Deload Weeks? Hoopers Beta 2023-09-05 | ๐ Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your bodyโs nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! Itโs packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS- docs.google.com/document/d/1FxFE9csrP-n7ITwwxMhllIP5Xa4w9q8HhXS8GPK6vDQ/edit?usp=sharing- https://shorturl.at/HOU24TAPERING RESEARCH- Changes in Muscle Architecture, Explosive Ability, and Track and Field Throwing Performance Throughout a Competitive Season and After a Taperpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27575250- Effects of tapering on performance in endurance athletes: A systematic review and meta-analysispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37163550- Tapering and Peaking Maximal Strength for Powerlifting Performance: A Reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32917000โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Bit O' Context00:57 Deloads Defined01:55 Why It Matters04:01 Why We Can Spend Time Making These Videos05:13 Argument Against Deloads07:52 Argument In Favor of Deloads09:57 Reactive Deload Guidelines12:13 Proactive Deload Guidelines๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 137hoopersbeta.com/library/deload-weeks-progression-hack-or-harmful-crutch๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.comTrad Climbing: Jarek Tuszyลski / CC-BY-SA-3.0 & GDFL, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0Bouldering: ๆฑๆธๆใฎใจใใใ, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0Outdoor Climbing: Maria Ly, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Optimizing Training for Climbing | Hype vs Reality Hoopers Beta 2023-08-21 | ๐ Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your bodyโs nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! Itโs packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.Dan's Moonboard Circuit: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lF7Bk9rhMYRQUX7o72LrYintEUfZNxfl?usp=sharingTraining Periodization References:jtsstrength.com/one-type-periodization-part-1strongerbyscience.com/periodization-datastrongerbyscience.com/periodization-history-theoryโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro00:21 Core-Strength Training01:04 Antagonist Training01:54 Interference Effect02:48 Cardio for Climbers04:24 Concentric Finger Strength Training06:25 Recruitment Pulls06:51 Endurance Training for Boulderers09:18 Face Pulls10:25 Training Periodization12:07 Hangboard/Campusboard Risk for Youth14:06 Progressive Overload15:04 Gaining Muscle for Climbing16:35 Losing Weight for Climbing17:36 Muscle Confusion18:45 Lower Body Training20:13 Stretching & Flexibility Training๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 136hoopersbeta.com/library/optimizing-training-for-climbing-hype-vs-reality๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
3-5 Strength Program for Climbers Hoopers Beta 2023-08-14 | โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Controversial Nutrition & Climbing Tactics, Explained | Hype vs Reality Hoopers Beta 2023-08-07 | ๐ Visit thrivemarket.com/HoopersBeta to get 30% Off Your First Thrive Market Order AND a Free Gift Worth up to $60!โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Introโก๏ธCategory 1: Nutrition00:18 Creatine03:11 Diet Tracking07:33 BCAA Supplements08:28 Collagen Supplements10:07 Animal Protein vs Plant Protein11:57 Why We Can Make These Videos for Free :)โก๏ธCategory 2: Recovery13:12 Deload Phases15:34 Avoiding Downclimbing18:05 Ice Baths & Cold Showersโก๏ธCategory 3: Climbing18:44 High-Angle Crimping20:45 Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue"23:08 Warming Up25:05 Moonboarding26:01 Board Climbing / Spray Walls๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 135hoopersbeta.com/library/hype-vs-science-controversial-climbing-topics-explained๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.comvideezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Rock Climbers Are Obsessed with This Hoopers Beta 2023-07-31 | Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Force Gauge by Tindeq: https://tindeq.com?ref=1003โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
6 Tips that Blew Up My Climbing Progression Hoopers Beta 2023-07-24 | ๐ Go to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video! AG1 is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your bodyโs nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! Itโs packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.Stronger by Science: strongerbyscience.com/weekly-load-progressionโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 134hoopersbeta.com/library/6-tips-tools-that-blew-up-my-climbing-progression๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Advanced Progression Technique for Climbers Hoopers Beta 2023-07-10 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtuโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
What Climbers Get Wrong About Antagonists Hoopers Beta 2023-07-03 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtuโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Could Cueing Revolutionize Your Climbing Progression? Hoopers Beta 2023-06-26 | ๐ฟGo to drinkag1.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video!Want to climb more like the pros we all look up to? Intention and cueing is key, as evidenced by @AdamOndra and @EmilAbrahamsson on their fantastic YouTube channels.โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSFor links to ALL of the citations please see this Google doc (or check the show notes on our website):docs.google.com/document/d/1bElbGV9dUhdocrADRNdno0x68U8aWzlR_FovD9bvTWk/editโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro00:48 Cueing Defined01:46 Why It Matters03:28 Types of Cue04:54 Cinematic Intermission06:26 How It Works08:49 Advanced Cueing09:49 What We Learned๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 133hoopersbeta.com/library/could-cueing-revolutionize-your-climbing-progression๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide] Hoopers Beta 2023-06-19 | โก๏ธ Head to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbetaIs this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka "mixed hangs." They're so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they don't require any weights or additional equipment!โก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with freeย gearย rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro & Overview00:31 Part 1: Advantages02:44 Part 2: Getting Started03:43 How do I know what holds to use?05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level06:36 Part 3: Progressing06:52 Progression Step 107:48 Progression Step 208:20 Progression Step 309:16 Part 4: Recommendations09:25 Improving Efficiency10:06 Frequency10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning11:23 Getting Unstuck12:21 Remember the Premise๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 132hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields-fingers-of-steel-w/-no-weights๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Dont Blame Wingspan! These Mistakes Limit Your Reach Hoopers Beta 2023-05-29 | ๐ฟGo to athleticgreens.com/HOOPERSBETA to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video!๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to Mesa Rim North City (@mesarim_NC)! Get a 1-Week Pass with free Rental Gear when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk!! mesarim.com/northcityโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro & Video Overview00:28 Climb 1: Lateral Dyno00:42 Climb 1 Analysis: Hip, Foot Placement Issues02:31 Climb 1 Demonstration: 3 Mistakes to Avoid02:49 Mistake #105:24 Mistake #207:05 Mistake #308:05 Climb 2: Vertical Dynamic Move09:30 Climb 2 Analysis: Humans Aren't Made for This10:28 Climb 2 Demonstration: Why Climbing Training is Weird11:54 Drill #112:57 Drill #214:34 Drill #316:11 Climb 3: Full Span Move16:35 Climb 3 Analysis (Dan): Need More Extension17:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Dan): Maximizing Reach20:16 Climb 3 Analysis (Jason): Figuring Out Body Position20:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Jason): Reverse Engineering Movement22:34 Recap of What We've Learned๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 131hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-conquer-big-moves-with-ease-regardless-of-height๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Collateral Ligament Injury from Rock Climbing (Causes & Fix) Hoopers Beta 2023-05-22 | FlexiSpot is gaving a Brand Day Sale on May 22-25, offering the best deals of the year. This is the best time to get a standing desk!๐ฅ๏ธ Flexispot links:US site: bit.ly/3OenCRtCAN site: bit.ly/3LMLtVrโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS- Complications of Proximal Interphalangeal Joint Injuries: Prevention and Treatment: bit.ly/3YzUNBa- The Collateral Ligament of the Digits of the Hand: Anatomy, Physiology, Biomechanics, Injury, and Treatment. bit.ly/3S48jKE- Jam Injuries of the Finger: Diagnosis and Management of Injuries to the Interphalangeal Joints Across Multiple Sports and Levels of Experience. bit.ly/3YUqJQAโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro/Overview00:17 Collateral Ligament Anatomy00:54 Causes of Injury02:07 Symptoms, Testing, & Diagnosis04:01 Ruling Out Other Injuries (Differential Diagnosis)06:26 Rehab/Treatment Options06:34 Can You Still Climb? (Tape?)07:31 Active Range of Motion08:17 Exercise and BFR08:48 Manual Therapy / Massage09:06 Joint Mobilization09:50 Rice Bucket?10:13 Ice and Heat?10:56 Patience (and Surgery?)11:21 Prognosis๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 130hoopersbeta.com/library/collateral-ligament-injury-from-rock-climbing-causes-fix๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Should You Hangboard 2x/Day like Emil Abrahamsson? (New Analysis & Recs) Hoopers Beta 2023-05-15 | โก๏ธHead to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbeta.@EmilAbrahamsson 2-Year Update Video: youtu.be/0rAkLqk3UXMโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!):๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9TkHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS- The effect of training intensity on voluntary isometric strength improvement. - bit.ly/44XHSMV - Isometric training and long-term adaptations: Effects of muscle length, intensity, and intent: A systematic review. bit.ly/452Y5R9 - Muscle hypertrophy and strength gains after resistance training with different volume-matched loads: a systematic review and meta-analysis. bit.ly/3M3xURA - Effects of different duration isometric contractions on tendon elasticity in human quadriceps muscles. bit.ly/3MqINOE - Effects of isometric squat training on the tendon stiffness and jump performance. bit.ly/3Bo7CEE - Effects of Resistance Training Performed with Different Loads in Untrained and Trained Male Adult - Individuals on Maximal Strength and Muscle Hypertrophy: A Systematic Review. bit.ly/3Ob1cjY - Effect of Exercise Intensity on the Healing of the Bone-Tendon Interface: A Mouse Rotator Cuff Injury Model Study . bit.ly/3pAfYGx - Low-Intensity Physical Exercise Improves Pain Catastrophizing and Other Psychological and - Physical Aspects in Women with Fibromyalgia: A Randomized Controlled bit.ly/42X5AXF - Effect of Low-intensity Exercise on Physical and Cognitive Health in Older Adults: a Systematic Review. bit.ly/42WYTVw - Low-intensity Exercise Accelerates Wound Healing in Diabetic Mice. bit.ly/42weSdw - Optimizing an intermittent stretch paradigm using ERK1/2 phosphorylation results in increased collagen synthesis in engineered ligaments. bit.ly/42Cc9za - Identification and Distinction of Tenocytes and Tendon-Derived Stem Cells. bit.ly/3nYXcbo - Value of high-resolution ultrasound in the evaluation of finger injuries in extreme sport climbers]. bit.ly/41w0gtv - The knowns and unknowns of neural adaptations to resistance training. bit.ly/3M4FATx - Comparison of the effects of long-lasting static stretching and hypertrophy training on maximal strength, muscle thickness and flexibility in the plantar flexors [published online ahead of print, bit.ly/3o3zjQ7 - Evidence-Based High-Loading Tendon Exercise for 12 Weeks Leads to Increased Tendon Stiffness and Cross-Sectional Area in Achilles Tendinopathy: A Controlled Clinical Trial. bit.ly/3o8ypBL - Human tendon adaptation in response to mechanical loading: a systematic review and meta-analysis of exercise intervention studies on healthy adults. bit.ly/42Sb3z9 - Effect of different resistance-training protocols on the extracellular matrix of the calcaneal tendon of rats. bit.ly/3O9Nj5n โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 A Lot Has Changed in 2 Years00:57 How Did We Get Here?02:15 Doesn't the Study Explain Everything?03:27 How Does It All Work?03:33 Muscle Hypertrophy04:40 Connective Tissue Thickening05:53 Tendon Stiffening07:19 Paying Our Bills :)08:01 Strength Recruitment09:40 Connective Tissue Remodeling11:09 Pain Science13:13 Other Variables13:46 What Have We Learned?15:08 Should You Do This Routine?๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 129hoopersbeta.com/library/will-hangboarding-2x/day-improve-your-climbing-ultimate-revised-breakdown๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining
Climbers Over-Complicate Pullup Training Hoopers Beta 2023-05-08 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to Mesa Rim North City! Get a 1-Week Pass with free Rental Gear when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk!!๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtuโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide] Hoopers Beta 2023-04-24 | โก๏ธHead to squarespace.com/hoopersbeta to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code hoopersbeta.โ ๏ธBlock pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?Lattice x Yves Video: youtu.be/nhyk765nw-8Loading Pin (normal length): amzn.to/3H8ypbwLoading Pin (short): amzn.to/3mSWmN5Tension Block (non-affiliate): tensionclimbing.com/product/the-block-2Frictitious Boards (affiliate - support the channel!): bit.ly/3yM0Jv1๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro and Overview01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video--PART 1: CONTEXT--01:49 Background Info: Why are "no hangs" so popular now?02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise?07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!!--PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN--08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use?09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps?11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use?11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use?12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight?--PART 3: GETTING STARTED--13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly?14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds?--PART 4: FIRST SESSION--16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard?18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight?21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts?--PART 5: PROGRAMMING--24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this?24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this?25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this?25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training?--PART 6: PROGRESSION--26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving?28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working?31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability?32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 128hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-finger-strength-with-no-hangs๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpulls
Inaccurate Climbing Advice I Hear Every Day (EVEN FROM PROS!) Hoopers Beta 2023-04-17 | ๐ฟGo to athleticgreens.com/HOOPERSBETA to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring todayโs video!- SUPER SIMPLE TRAINING LOG (make a copy for yourself): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qPZ8D3AKa7mvyGboGvM_7AAHhP9_D2ZAXXynpd0hrow/edit?usp=sharing- MORE COMPLEX LOG: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xnCUIzEAIECWxFuj3kZmhK2mEsZTLrdmUxbGQBc-DHo/edit?usp=sharingโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS- Molecular mechanisms of exercise contributing to tissue regeneration - bit.ly/3zHKNLm- A Randomized Controlled Trial Comparing Traditional Plaster Cast Rehabilitation With Functional Walking Boot Rehabilitation for Acute Achilles Tendon Ruptures - bit.ly/43dr5Vl - Muscle and tendon adaptations to moderate load eccentric vs. concentric resistance exercise in young and older males - bit.ly/3ocZdk1 โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Intro and Context00:32 Most common advice for new climbers, ever?03:09 An excuse/misunderstanding about finger strength07:54 Your tendons are probably perfectly fine, here's why09:53 Huge rehab mistake11:28 One of the most costly training mistakes climbers make๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 127hoopersbeta.com/library/inaccurate-climbing-advice-i-hear-every-day-even-from-pros๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONStendon anatomy: Laboratoires Servier, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Skill Hoopers Beta 2023-04-10 | Link to full length hip mobility video: youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our Amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtuโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Are These Mistakes Stopping You from Climbing Harder? (How to Fix) Hoopers Beta 2023-03-27 | โก๏ธGet Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/HOOPERSBETA and enter promo code HOOPERSBETA for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE!๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.comโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Preview and Intro00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 102:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 204:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 306:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 407:28 Climb 1: Lesson 508:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 109:31 Climb 2: Lesson 210:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 113:53 Climb 3: Lesson 215:13 Climb 3: Lesson 316:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 419:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 124:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 226:46 Climb 4: Lesson 328:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 132:08 Outro๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 126hoopersbeta.com/library/identifying-5-climbing-fails-then-demonstrating-how-to-fix-them๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSAnatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Increase Ankle Mobility for Rock Climbing Hoopers Beta 2023-03-20 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Hooper's Beta Amazon Storefront: amzn.to/3yQtqHD-- Has links to our favorite climbing shoes, chalk, and loads of awesome rehab tools! โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall] Hoopers Beta 2023-03-06 | There are numerous ways to support free content on this channel, including buying through our affiliate links below, buying a t-shirt, and becoming a YouTube member. :)Videos mentioned:Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlIโก AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store๐ค$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw๐ฑ20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA๐ฒ REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk๐ Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialโ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!โ TIMESTAMPS00:00:00 Intro and Overview00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 125hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-for-climbing-full-body-guide๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSAnatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia CommonsFHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia CommonsQuads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia CommonsHamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia CommonsAdductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia CommonsAnkle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia CommonsAnkle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Wish I Had Known This When Climbing Pockets Hoopers Beta 2023-02-20 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!VIDEO LINKS:- How to Fix Lumbrical Pain (Lumbrical Injury, Pocket Climbing Injury) - bit.ly/410SE2W- What Climbers Should Know About Lumbricals (STRANGE Hand Muscles) - bit.ly/3Z6o727โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88Fโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Why Do Climbers Love Deadlifts? w/ @LatticeTraining @EmilAbrahamsson Hoopers Beta 2023-02-13 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialThe original "Top 12 Worst Exercises" video: youtu.be/GkBSx6iBqSMTHANK YOU to Tom Randall @WideBoyz and the Lattice crew @LatticeTraining well as @EmilAbrahamsson lending your time and knowledge for this video!Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSโ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Context and Overview00:41 Anatomy and What People Think These Exercises Do02:21 Coach's Recommendations (Tom Randall / Lattice)05:55 V14/15 Climber's Recommendations (Emil Abrahamsson)09:09 Jason's Breakdown of These Exercises for Climbers11:39 How to Deadlift with Michael Gaspari, DPT14:28 Deadlift Reps/Sets Recommendations15:22 How to Bench Press19:02 Bench Press Reps/Sets Recommendations19:55 Closing Statements๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 124hoopersbeta.com/library/deadlift-and-benchpress-for-climbers-collaboration-with-lattice-and-emil๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Does Power Screaming Improve Climbing Performance? Hoopers Beta 2023-01-30 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONS- Shouting strengthens maximal voluntary force and is associated with augmented pupillary dilation - bit.ly/3CXe8Dv - Grunting in tennis increases ball velocity but not oxygen cost - bit.ly/3XFI6Ea - Grunting's competitive advantage: Considerations of force and distraction - bit.ly/3XEkQq0 - Vocal disinhibition (grunting) does not increase dead lift force in college athletes or nonathletes - bit.ly/3CXoZ06 - The effects of "grunting" on serve and forehand velocities in collegiate tennis players - bit.ly/3XHhOBn - The Effects of Forced Exhalation and Inhalation, Grunting, and Valsalva Maneuver on Forehand Force in Collegiate Tennis Players - bit.ly/3w8M6RR โ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Front Lever Training Mistake Hoopers Beta 2023-01-16 | ๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a two-man team, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88Fโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
These 5 Climbing Myths Must Be Stopped (Full Crimp, Carbs, Weight Training) Hoopers Beta 2023-01-09 | ๐Thanks to LMNT for sponsoring this video! Head to:http://DrinkLMNT.com/HOOPERSBETA to get your free sample pack with any purchase.๐ LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficialHooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!โ๏ธPT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions๐ง COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com๐ SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com๐ฌ RESEARCH CITATIONSHydration and muscular performance: does fluid balance affect strength, power and high-intensity endurance - bit.ly/3jqMp7q โ TIMESTAMPS00:00 Context00:35 Myth #5: Momentum02:07 Myth #4: Water, Carbs, Electrolytes04:01 Myth #3: Training06:16 Myth #2: Muscle Mass07:28 Myth #1: Crimping10:09 What myths should we tackle next?๐ SHOW NOTESEpisode 122hoopersbeta.com/library/debunking-the-5-most-malignant-myths-in-climbing-full-crimp-included๐ฅ YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY๐ GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88Fโ ๏ธ DISCLAIMERAs always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.๐ผ๏ธ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONSvecteezy.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Why Just Climbing Isnt Enough Hoopers Beta 2023-01-02 | ๐ Website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta๐ง For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Fixing 5 Common Mistakes that Make Climbers Fall Every Time Hoopers Beta 2022-12-26 | ๐ฅ KAYA PRO Free 2-Week Trial: Use code KAYAGB2022 ๐ฅFor instructions on how to redeem the code, see this doc: bit.ly/3hYmHGK๐ง For individual coaching/training with Dan, email danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or visit testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan๐ Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the *Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers* by subscribing and sharing this video with friends!// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// TIMESTAMPS //00:00 Intro00:15 When to shift from a heel to a toe01:07 The difference between effective and ineffective training02:03 Position your body before moving your hands03:22 Demonstration: The difference between easy and hard is often tiny04:47 How to use this as actionable advice05:31 How to get "unstuck" from sidepulls (hip flick)07:09 Don't pull STRAIGHT to the next hold08:46 Instagram, 8a, Mountain Project, and guidebooks all in one09:40 Rows for climbers and how to engage a better drop knee10:23 "Basically never" use a drop knee this way// SHOW NOTES //Episode 121hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-make-hard-climbing-moves-feel-easy-move-your-knee๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Core Strength: The Biggest Mistake Climbers Make Hoopers Beta 2022-12-19 | How do you actually increase body tension? By having good technique on the wall, by having a strong upper body, and by having the coordination to engage many muscles across your entire body at the same time, from your fingertips all the way down to your toes. Ab-only exercises accomplish little of that, if any. We'll make a full length video on this soon!Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Can the MAGNUS MIDTBร 9c TEST Reveal Your Biggest Weakness? @Ross-Fulkerson @AnnaHazelnutt Hoopers Beta 2022-12-12 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.ROSS'S CHANNEL: @Ross-Fulkerson ANNA'S CHANNEL: @AnnaHazelnuttCameo from DAN BEALL: testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-danFRICTITIOUS Hangboards and Mobile Boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1Test Scores: 40=9c, 39=9b+, 38=9b, 37=9b, 36=9a+, 35=9a+, 34=9a, 33=9a, 32=8c+, 31=8c+, 30=8c, 29=8c, 28=8b+, 27=8b+, 26=8b, 25=8b, 24=8a+, 23=8a+, 22=8a, 21=8a, 20=7c+, 19=7c+, 18=7c, 17=7c, 16=7b+, 15=7b+, 14=7b, 13=7b, 12=7a+, 11=7a+, 10=7a, 9=7a, 8=6c+, 7=6c+, 6=6c, 5=6c, 4=6b, 3=6b, 2=6a, 1=6a// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// TIMESTAMPS //00:00 Context00:51 Warm-Up and Ross's Advice01:43 Test 1 - Ultimate Finger Strength Test?06:51 Test 2 - Ultimate Pullup Test?10:53 Test 3 - Ultimate Core Strength Test?13:44 Test 4 - Ultimate Endurance Test?18:21 Results - Is the Test Accurate?19:15 Key Takeaways and Conclusions// SHOW NOTES //Episode 120hoopersbeta.com/library/can-the-ultimate-climbing-test-really-reveal-your-biggest-weakness๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Why 3 Fingers is STRONGER than 4 for Some Climbers Hoopers Beta 2022-12-05 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88Fhoopersbeta.com/library// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Top 10 UNDERTRAINED Muscles that Hold Climbers Back (#1 Will Surprise You) Hoopers Beta 2022-11-28 | Go to athleticgreens.com/hoopersbeta to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. Thanks to Athletic Greens for sponsoring today's video!// AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your bodyโs nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! Itโs packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.// FULL LENGTH VIDS REFERENCED IN THIS VIDEO //Before You Start Hangboarding: youtu.be/luL6LN5ALdoHip Mobility: youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4Hip Mobility Yoga Routine: youtu.be/VZ7PuJR_e6YLumbricals: youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMULower Traps: youtu.be/-_2_1hOfL00Hamstring Injuries and Strengthening: youtu.be/wmeas5-mrFw// LINKS to our website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// TIMESTAMPS //00:00 Why This Matters00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds03:15 #6: For feeling better on camping trips04:26 The Real #6: Heel hook strength and safety05:07 #5: For better body tension and control06:03 #4: For strong healthy shoulders06:44 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks07:43 #2: For ripping holds off the wall08:31 #1: For climbing better// SHOW NOTES //Episode 119hoopersbeta.com/library/top-10-undertrained-muscles-in-rock-climbers-niche-to-game-changingKey Points: Lumbricals (hand muscles used for strength and safety on pockets), Anterior Tibialis (ankle dorsiflexor for toe hooks), Wrists (wrist flexors and extensors for wrist stability on slopers), Flexor Hallucis Longus (big toe flexor for toeing down on small holds and pulling with our toes), Hamstrings (for heel hooks and overhangs), Lower Trapezius (for scapular retraction and overall shoulder health), Hips (various muscles for open hip mobility and high step ability, including the hamstrings, glutes, hip adductors), Shoulder External Rotators (infraspinatus and teres minor externally rotate the shoulder which is a common position in climbing), Flexor Digitorum Profundus (primary finger flexor that enables us to hold onto everything, yet gets ignored sometimes)// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JPFlexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JPHamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0Glutes: Original by sv:Anvรคndare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0Quadriceps: The original uploader was ืืืกื ืืจืืฉืื at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.comWith a cameo from @AnnaHazelnutt !// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile ModesittFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
IF ONLY I Knew This When I Started Climbing Hoopers Beta 2022-11-21 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Rock Climbers (Causes, Diagnosis, Treatment) Hoopers Beta 2022-11-14 | Pulley injury: youtu.be/_AxN5HyBLfMFlexor tendon injury: youtu.be/ub_ttbKcGvcLinks to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// RESEARCH CITATIONS //Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers-A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database: bit.ly/3BdXoGp Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review bit.ly/3SB7MyV Efficacy of corticosteroid injection in rock climber's tenosynovitis bit.ly/3rRGQjm // SHOW NOTES //Episode 118hoopersbeta.com/library/flexor-tenosynovitisKey Points: Flexor Tenosynovitis vs A2 Pulley Injury, How to Diagnose Tenosynovitis, How to Treat Tenosynovitis, Corticosteroid Injection, Finger Pain from Climbing, Pulley Pain// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Is the CLOSED Crimp Position Good for Climbers? Hoopers Beta 2022-11-07 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// RESEARCH CITATIONS //The thumb during the crimp grip - bit.ly/3hfGO2B// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.comBe sure to mention Hooper's Beta to knock down that day price from $20 to $15!// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Why Your Strength Isnt Transferring to Climbing (FIX THESE MISTAKES!) Hoopers Beta 2022-10-31 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.// DANโS COACHING INFO //www.testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com&@EmilAbrahamsson (for letting us use his footage of Off the Wagon!)// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// TIMESTAMPS //00:00 Intro00:16 How to maximize friction/force on holds01:12 How to stand on volumes so you don't slip02:21 Long-term and INSTANT hip flexion gains03:26 Why newer climbers push themselves off the wall04:32 When technique hasn't caught up to strength...05:56 Drop knees can work against you07:28 Emil Abrahamsson on Off the Wagon V14/8B+// SHOW NOTES //Episode 117hoopersbeta.com/library/why-your-strength-isnt-transferring-to-climbing-fix-these-mistakes// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
The Biggest Mistake Rock Climbers Make with Pullups Hoopers Beta 2022-10-24 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.If you're in the SD area, be sure to check out The Wall Climbing Gym and mention Hooper's Beta to knock that day price down from $20 to $15!// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Top 12 WORST Exercises for Climbers (THAT EVERYONE DOES!) Hoopers Beta 2022-10-17 | Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com๐ Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.A special thanks and shoutout to Anna Hazelnutt for joining us in this video!- Follow her on IG @annahazelnutt or on her YouTube channel youtube.com/c/annahazelnutt// OUR WEBSITE //In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join๐ GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F// SHOW NOTES //Episode 116hoopersbeta.com/library/top-12-worst-exercises-for-climbers-that-everyone-does// DISCLAIMER //As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //Boxing bell: Benboncan at freesound.org/s/66951Shoulder: The Joint Clinic, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0 via Wikimedia CommonsCalf muscles: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en via Wikimedia Commons// SPECIAL THANKS //The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com// PRODUCERS //Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile ModesittKettlebell Swing, Kettlebell Snatch, Deadlift, Bench Press, Single Arm External Rotation, Bicep Curl, Situps, Crunches, High Row, Plank, Behind the Neck Overhead Press, Shoulder Shrug, Tricep Dip, Upright Row#trainclimbsendrepeat #doctorofphysicaltherapy @AnnaHazelnutt
