Hoopers Beta | Essential Shoulder Mobility Tests for All Climbers @HoopersBeta | Uploaded September 2021 | Updated October 2024, 3 hours ago.
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
Who Cares About Shoulder Mobility? (00:00)
Test 1 (01:05)
Test 1 Results (02:01)
Test 2 (02:48)
Test 2 Results (03:36)
My Recommendations for Hyper- and Hypo-Mobile Shoulders (05:10)
An Important Note About Shoulder Mobility (06:22)
Outro and Bloopers (06:55)
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 92
INTRODUCTION
Having good, symmetrical shoulder mobility can reduce injury risk while enhancing climbing performance. It’s pretty easy to understand why being super limited, or hypo-mobile, in your shoulders is a problem for climbers.
What many people don’t consider, however, is that it’s equally important to not have too much shoulder mobility, or hyper-mobility.
It’s a common misconception to think “the more mobility, the better!” But in fact, if you’re hypermobile, stretching is exactly what you don’t want to do.
So how are you supposed to know if your shoulders have too much, too little, or just the right amount of mobility? And what do you do about it once you find out?
Well, in this video I’m going to show you two tests that will help you determine your mobility, as well as my recommendations at the end. And yes, you need to do both tests you want an accurate result ;).
TEST 1
The first is a Functional Shoulder test. This involves functional movement patterns that require good shoulder, scapula, AND thoracic spine mobility.
Don't push this test or your mobility to the point of pain. It should be relatively comfortable. If you do immediate pain while attempting this test, you may have a separate shoulder pathology that may require a skilled professional to diagnose and treat.
To perform the functional shoulder test
Grab a friend, or use your phone to record your test.
If using a friend, you’ll also need a tape measure or ruler.
If using a phone, it should be set up looking at your back and needs a clear shot of your mid back region.
Make a fist with both hands, tucking your thumb inside the fist.
Place one of your arms behind your back and work your fist up as high as you can along your spine.
Reach your opposite arm behind your head and work it down as far as you can along your spine.
Have your friend measure the distance between your two closed fists.
Measurements should be made from the closest bony prominence.
Repeat, but switch arms!
This test can be repeated up to 3 times per side to increase accuracy
Now for the results. Take the measurement that your friend found and compare that to the length of your hand (from the base of your wrist to the tip of your middle finger).
If the measurement turns out to be equal to or slightly shorter than the length of your hand, you have normal mobility!
If your measurement was longer than the length of your hand, then you have a small deficit in your range of motion.
If you were touching hands together, you may have hypermobility in your shoulders.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/shoulder-mobility-tests-for-rock-climbers
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy
Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Resistance Bands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane Scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/Cupping - 24-Cup Set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Body Blade: amzn.to/3yY1dwb
// TIMESTAMPS //
Who Cares About Shoulder Mobility? (00:00)
Test 1 (01:05)
Test 1 Results (02:01)
Test 2 (02:48)
Test 2 Results (03:36)
My Recommendations for Hyper- and Hypo-Mobile Shoulders (05:10)
An Important Note About Shoulder Mobility (06:22)
Outro and Bloopers (06:55)
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 92
INTRODUCTION
Having good, symmetrical shoulder mobility can reduce injury risk while enhancing climbing performance. It’s pretty easy to understand why being super limited, or hypo-mobile, in your shoulders is a problem for climbers.
What many people don’t consider, however, is that it’s equally important to not have too much shoulder mobility, or hyper-mobility.
It’s a common misconception to think “the more mobility, the better!” But in fact, if you’re hypermobile, stretching is exactly what you don’t want to do.
So how are you supposed to know if your shoulders have too much, too little, or just the right amount of mobility? And what do you do about it once you find out?
Well, in this video I’m going to show you two tests that will help you determine your mobility, as well as my recommendations at the end. And yes, you need to do both tests you want an accurate result ;).
TEST 1
The first is a Functional Shoulder test. This involves functional movement patterns that require good shoulder, scapula, AND thoracic spine mobility.
Don't push this test or your mobility to the point of pain. It should be relatively comfortable. If you do immediate pain while attempting this test, you may have a separate shoulder pathology that may require a skilled professional to diagnose and treat.
To perform the functional shoulder test
Grab a friend, or use your phone to record your test.
If using a friend, you’ll also need a tape measure or ruler.
If using a phone, it should be set up looking at your back and needs a clear shot of your mid back region.
Make a fist with both hands, tucking your thumb inside the fist.
Place one of your arms behind your back and work your fist up as high as you can along your spine.
Reach your opposite arm behind your head and work it down as far as you can along your spine.
Have your friend measure the distance between your two closed fists.
Measurements should be made from the closest bony prominence.
Repeat, but switch arms!
This test can be repeated up to 3 times per side to increase accuracy
Now for the results. Take the measurement that your friend found and compare that to the length of your hand (from the base of your wrist to the tip of your middle finger).
If the measurement turns out to be equal to or slightly shorter than the length of your hand, you have normal mobility!
If your measurement was longer than the length of your hand, then you have a small deficit in your range of motion.
If you were touching hands together, you may have hypermobility in your shoulders.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/shoulder-mobility-tests-for-rock-climbers
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
and
Emile Modesitt (@emile166)
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy
